262
THE WEST SHORE.
QUEEN CHARLOTTE ISLANDS.
II.
MOUNTAINS clothed with dense forests of cedar,
bjji'uctt uiiil hemlock cover most of the surface of
the country we nre about to enter. Numerous wonderful
inlets, sounds and channels divide it into an archipelago
of innny inlands, of which Graham, Moresby, Provost,
North Louiso, Lyell and Barnaby comprise the
greater portion of the area. Although so far north, being
directly under the influenco of the warm Japan current,
which sweeps along those shores, the climate is mild,
winters rarely severe, snowfall generally light, except on
tho mountains, and rainfall ranging from forty to seventy
inches, according to local topography, the western slopes
of tho mountains receiving much tho largest amount
Their most valuable known resources are fish, lumber,
fur seal, sea otter and coal. Veins of gold and copper
have also been found, but not sufficiently developed to
indicate their extent and value.
They are inhabited exclusively by the Hydah Indians,
now numboring nlxmt 800 souls, who live in tho villages
of Massett and Skidegate, on Graham Island; Gold Har
bor, on Maud Island, in Skidegato Inlet; Cumshewa, on
Moresby Island; Skednnce, on Lyell Island; Tanoo, or
Laskeek, on Tanoo Island, and at Ninstants, on a little
island opjMwito tho west coast entrance to Houston
Stewart Channel. Their origin, in the absence of any
written record or historical inscriptions, is nn interesting
subject for speculation. Their features, tatooing, carv
togs and legends indicate that tlioy are castaways from
Eastern Asia, who, first reselling tho islands of Southern
Alaska, Boon tm.k and hold exclusive possession of the
Queen Charlotte group. Their physical and intellectual
uperiority over tho other North (W Indians, and also
marked contrast in tho structure of their language,
denote a different origin. They are of good size, with
exceptionally wall developed chests and arms, high fore
Loads and lighter complexion than any other North
American Indians.
Massett, tho principal and probably oldest village of
the Hydah Nation, is pleasantly situated on tho north
shore of Graham Island at tho entrance to Massett Inlet
Fifty houses, great and Hinall, built of cedar logs and
planks, with a forest of carved poles in front, extend
along tho fino beach. Tho house of Chief Weeah is fifty,
five feet square, containing timbers of immense size, and
planks three feet and one-half in width and eighteen
inches thick. Tho village now has a population of Bbou!
2.W, the remnant of a onco numerous people, tho houses
in ruins hero having accommodated several times thai
number. Massett is tho shipyard of tho Hydahs, the besl
canoe makers on the continent, who supply them to the
other const trilen. Here may bo seen in all stages of
construction these canoes which, when completed, Bre
such perfect models for service and of taanty. This is
the ftlKxle of the arist-xracy of Hydah Undiof Head
Chief Edonsaw, and of Wecnh, StilU, Kinaskilaa, Kilt
sloma, Speua and Cootay, minor chieftains, who have but
little now remaking except their titles, of which they are
very proud. Most of the other villages named were
offshoots from the parent colony, caused by family and
tribal feuds and quarrels. Chief Edensaw nnd mnt cf
his people were away at North Island and other points
hunting fur seal, their most profitable pursuit Those
remaining appeared quite friendly, and disposed to look
with favor upon my undertaking.
I had no difficulty in obtaining the desired Indian
guide, and at once proceeded with the work of examining
the islands. Down Massett Inlet we paddled and sailed
for thirty miles, through great flocks of wild geese and
ducks, several of which were Boon added to our provision
supply. What a splendid body of inland water, from
one-eighth of a mile to ten miles in width, deep enough
for large vessels, abounding in choice fish and game, its
shores covered with dense forests, where bear, land otter,
and mink are numerous, altogether a. veritable Indian .
paradise 1 For several days we coursed slowly along the
eastern side, entering nil of the indentations, and follow
ing up the Btreams flowing into it. My guide, a master
of ennoe navigation, and well acquainted with all of the
waters of that portion of the islands, was of bo little ser
vice upon land, both fiom ignorance of its topography,
and in experience of foot expeditions, that I made my
interior excursions alone. ' Indian trails were almost
invariably found, extending from one to three miles along
the water courses, terminating at or near bodies of the
finest red cedar, which they had cut for canoes and poles,
for carving and building purposes. Upon some of these
trails considerable labor had been expended in bridging
over ravines, corduroying marshy places, and cutting
through the trunks of great fallen trees. Only a few of
them showed much use of late years, being obstructed by
logs and overgrown with bushes. But, poor as were these
native roads, I was always very glad to find them, and
correspondingly sorry when I could follow them no
longer, for beyond progress was exceedingly .difficult;
fallen trees from one to eight feet in diameter, in all
the stages of decoy, thickly overgrown with moss, lying
one above another, not unfrequently to the height of ten
or fifteen feet, covered nearly the whole surface of the
country. Several times I struck bear paths, bo well worn
that at first I thought that they had been trodden by
human feet, but sooner or later they led me into thickets
through which I could only go on all fours. I found a
bear trap bo constructed that, when sprung, an immense
log would crush bruin to the earth; mink traps, where
the animal was enticed by n tempting bait into a noose,
which held it fast; and salmon traps, so made by means
f wing dams, with lattice work and boxes in the centre
of the stream, that no ascending fish could escape being
caught Grouse were very numerous, and so tame from
being seldom hunted, that they would sit upon the
branches of the trees nlmost within reach. They were
excellent eating, quite fat and tender.
Returning to Massett I then prepared for a more
extended trip, the circumnavigation of the entire group
of islands, for the purpose of a preliminary survey of the
coast oountiy, to enable me to determine which portion