MANY STYLES OF
DAYTIME GOWNS
Widely Varied Wardrobe Needed
Because of Long Hours of
Summer Months.
____________
Rose, Orchid and Flesh Pink, Made Up
in Combinations With White—
Crepe Materials Are Pro-
fusely Used.
-----
Daytime summer dresses are wide-
ly varied now that the twilight hours
are so long, thanks to the imaginary
hour we advanced lust March, observes
a prominent creator o f fushfons. The
early part o f the day is given over to
sport frocks or simple silk and voile
gowns with organdie fichu or trim-
mings o f lace fo r the less strenuous
persou to whom “ sport togs” ure not
becoming. With the coming o f after
noon femininity begins to think o f
dressing for dinner, with the result
that the necks o f afternoon gowns are
quite low and the sleeves very sheer
or quite short.
Georgette crepe in plain ground and
flowered patterns is profusely used fo r
these cool, clingy afternoon frocks.
Rose, orchid and flesh pink are the
favorite colors, made up in combination
with white.
Crepe chiffon, which Is
the loveliest o f the crepe fabrics,
makes exquisite gowns fo r afternoon
and evening wear, while charmeuse
and meteor in all the pastel shades are
exquisite and develop many entranc
ing frocks.
Organdie and the softer fabrics o f
batiste and cotton voile make exquis
ite lingerie dresses which look their
loveliest when making a background
fo r the youth o f a pretty girl. Vivid
shades o f rose and coral organdie are
very popular fo r these girlish frocks,
while the demund for pink, blue and
orchid never wanes. The imported or
gandies, which run in lacy squares and
stripes, are capable o f exquisite de
velopment
into
dainty
afternoon
frocks o f the quaint variety.
There are many tissue-like cottons
to which the manufacturers have treat
ed us this year. These sheer mate
rials combine well with white organ
die ruffles and are equally lovely with
trimmings o f Val lace.
Hand-embroidered frocks o f white
mull and batiste are always attractive
when the mercury plays tag with the
100 degree mark and cool verandas
beckon; but these gowns are difficult
fqr the moderately skilled dressmaker
to duplicate. Unless an embroidered
gown is strikingly lovely in its dainti
ness or beautiful in the elaboration o f
its embroidery, It seems a foolish
waste o f money fo r the effect achieved,
Embroidered flouncings are adapted to
some o f the models, but flouncing
usually has to be made up In a rather
set way.
Georgette and Organdie.
characterize this skirt are long and
rather wide and are edged with or
gandie ruffles.
W herever these or
gandie ruffles appear they are ma
chine hemstitched to the georgette
crepe with pink thread.
With this picturesque gown is worn
a broad hut o f pink straw, faced with
pink Baronette satin and tied with a
ribbon o f ISaronette.
The war achievement of the Amer
ican women who are now being mo
bilized for the Third Rod Cross roll
call, November 2 to 11, Is revealed In
the announcement by Atlantic divi
sion headquarters that In two years
In Gray Charmeuse.
nearly $100,000,000
A gown which is in striking contrast they produced
worth o f surgical articles and gar
to the elaborate effect o f the georgette
ments. During the 24 months ending
model Is found in the dress o f gray
charmeuse,. one o f the loveliest fa April 30 last the figures show Red
brics in the world. It looks like the Cross chapter workers turned out 875,-
174,825 surgical dressings, hospital
sheen o f moonlight on water.
garments,
refugee
garments
and
The neck o f this gown is finished
knitted comforts for the soldiers and
with clinrmeus^, which is brought into sailors, the estimated value o f which
striking worblliness by a row o f red was $98,184,359.
satin buttons and red bound button-
In number o f nrtlcles produced, the
holes. The gown fastens down the Atlantic division ranks first among
front in an unusual line which runs the 13 divisions o f the national organ
from the collar to an Insert o f red ization.
The women o f the three
charmeuse strapped with folds of states— New York, N ew Jersey and
white taffeta, which gives a bizarre Connecticut— produced 77,859,904 ar
note to the otherwise demure look o f ticles with a valuation o f $15,597,428.
this gown. A row o f similar red but-
It Is estimated that 8,000,000 women
tons runs down the side o f this Insert, and girls participated In this tre
mendous work throughout the coun
try, and It is among them lurgely that
the Red Cross Is now recruiting the
1,000,000 workers who will assist In
the enrollment o f members fo r 1920
during the ten days ending Armistice
day, when a really universal mem
bership will be sought to maintain the
effectiveness o f the organization built
up In the war fo r the big peace pro
gram o f the Red Cross.
which is cut In bands and sewed to-
gether by means o f tiny cords o f or-
gandie. Around the neck and vest
line runs a crisp ruffle o f white o r-
gandie, plcot finished. The bell-shaped
sleeves are cut three-quarter length
to display long, tight cuffs o f orgnndie
made Into tucks and cords to match
the vest
The skirt o f this gown Is slightly
gathered at the waist line. It Is trim-
med with three folds o f flowered
georgette
which
simulate
tucks,
above which crisply stand ruffles o f
white organdie.
The panels which
tremely Handy.
A small hanging cupboard is always
useful in bedroom and a convenience
In many other parts of a house.
A handy little cupboard can be easily
made with any well-made wooden box
of a suitable size and shape. The lid
of the box forms the door of the cup
board, and to enable it to be opened
and closed easily, a little brass handle
o f the nature shown in sketch B should
be screwed on in front, and it may be
purchased at any hardware store fo r a
trifle.
For suspending the box from nails
in the wall, two small circular holes
Gown of Gray Charmeuse with White
Collar, One of the Loveliest of Fab-
rics.
These buttons and those on the col
lar and cuffs may be gray with good
effect. The girdle o f this gown makes
no attempt to be striking. It leaves
all thnt to the red charmeuse and
simply performs the office o f snugly
outlining the waist with a band of
gray charmeuse.
A Hanging Cupboard.
To be as good as our fathers we must
be better.
Imitation
la dlscipleship. are cut In the bottom, In the positions
When someone sent a cracked plate to Indicated by the crosses In sketch A.
China to- have a set made, every piece
The
exterior o f the cupboard
In the new set had a crack In it.—Wen
sketched Is covered with a pretty
dell Phillips.
striped cretonne, and this can be easily
done by turning the material over at
W ild Duck with Turnips.
Cut up the bird in neat pieces fo r the edges and fastening It on, Just In
serving. Slice one large onion and one side, at the back and underneath the
carrot; melt four tablespoonfuls of box with tacks. The Interior Is lined
sweet fat In a saucepan, add the vege with pieces o f brown paper, cut to fit
tables ; cook until nicely browned. and pasted In place.
Strain off the fut, add a cupful of
In these days a small hanging cup
stock and one bay leaf, place in the board of any kind costs a good deal to
oven and cook fo r one hour. Peel buy, and the article Illustrated can be
eight turnips, cut four o f them into prepared at home at a very slight cost,
quarters and fry in hot butter until and covering the wood with cretonne
brown; put them with the duck to w ill be found quite easy.
finish cooking. Boil the other turnips
until tender in salted w ater; mash
and rub through a sieve; put them in
a saucepan with one tablespoonful of
Touches of Hand Embroidery Are to
butter to season and salt and pepper
Be Seen on Much of the Fall
to taste; add a quarter o f a cup of
Millinery.
cream and heat again. Take up the
duck, dish it on the hot mashed tur
A continued vogue fo r the nurrow
nips and arrange the fried quarters
back hat is promised fo r the coming
around it. Strain the sauce from the
season and already the shops are show
duck, thicken with flour, season and
ing advance fall and winter models In
serve in a sauceboat.
poke shape or glorified narrow back
sailors.
Squirrel Pie,
Manufacturing milliners made a rath
Arrange thin slices o f bacon In the
er earnest effort some months ago to
botton o f a deep baking dish, season
discourage the midsummer wearing ol
with salt and pepper; add one table
velvet hats, but the shops seemed to
spoonful o f chopped parsley, one
demand them and these heavy, warm
tablespoonful o f mixed herbs and a
looking bits o f headgear put In theli
cupful o f white sauce. Cut two squir
appearance quite early, ns usual, al
rels in servlng-slzed pieces and place
though not In quite as generous num
them over the bacon; cover with a
bers as heretofore.
layer o f sliced potatoes and place a
Among the new materials being
cover o f pastry over the dish. Bake
strongly featured fo r nutumn hats, e
one hour In a hot oven. Add another
cupful o f white sauce through the vent very soft velvety finished wool mater
In the top, brush with egg and brown. ial probably leads and some decidedly
chic sports hats nre made o f suede. Bro-
ended and plain velvets enter Into the
Roast Wild Duck.
Clean and truss the duck and sprin development o f hnts fo r autumn and
winter. These fabrics are often hand
kle with salt and pepper. Cover the
breast with slices o f salt pork, cut somely embroidered In chenille oi
heavy wool, this embroidery being the
very thin. Place on a rack in a drip
only trimming employed.
ping pan, add a little water to the pan
Certainly this Is the day when the
and place in a hot oven to cook for
half an hour, basting every five min home milliner Is encouraged to try hei
utes with the water in the pan. Re hand, and there Is no reason why she
move the pork and serve with currant should not have splendid results.
Jelly.
The skirt Is draped in a gracefully
nnrrow line. On either side hang two
sash-like panels o f gray georgette
about 10 Inches wide. These panels
are pieot edged and embroidered with
three rows o f leaves in bead embroid
ery. This gown Is made over a slip
o f flesh-colored charmeuse. W ith this
dress Is worn a broad black hat, trim
med with shaded pink roses.
Possibly among the most unusual
models is the gown o f green char
meuse with a waist o f green and white
striped georgette.
There is a bib
front o f green charmeuse, which
reaches to the neck line and from
the front view has the look o f n
jumper, which displays the striped
sleeves. This Jumper continues Into
a deep V-llne at the back and disap
pears beneath a!* girdle o f green char
meuse. A t the neck line the Jumper
extends into very long, nnrrow straps
that tie beneath the waist line at the
center back and hang in long ends
finished with green and white striped
georgette buttons straight down the
bark with round ball buttons made
o f imitation Jade. The kimono sleeves
are gathered Into deep bell cuffs o f
green charmeuse.
The skirt o f this gown is draped
In n pannier on one side. A broad
black hot, faced with satin and trim-
med with satin knife-pleated wheels,
Is the picturesque complement o f this
striking costume.
Rabbit
This Is a delicious dish when a ten
der young rabbit is served. Wash and
wipe the meat carefully, cut it up in
serving-sized pieces, brown in a little
hot butter, thou add water and a
tablespoonful o f vinegar; cook slowly
until tender.
Roast Venison.
Rub a half lemon over the piece of
venison to roafet, lard with strips of
salt pork, cook until tender, but not
overdone— 15 minutes to the pound.
Serve with spiced wild grape Jelly.
Game In Season.
Most experts in cooking o f game
agree that the flavor o f game birds Is
better if they are not stuffed with the
usual highly seasoned forcemeat.
urtijGL
New Aid for Aviators.
T o aid aviators a New York physi
cian has Invented an instrument that
tells the direction o f flight, the points
o f the compass and angle from the
perpendicular at which a plane may
be traveling.
Single Blade Propeller.
A propeller invented by a Massa
chusetts man fo r motor boats bos
a single blade that oscillates like a
flab's tall or the motion o f an oar in
sculling.
World Is Getting Better.
The world Is getting better to the
man who Is doing something to make
It better, and remaining the same or
getting worse to the man who isn 't
Next time you light a match, think
o f th is;
About 10,000 matches are scratched
in this country every second that
passes, and o f these 90 per cent are
used by smokers to fire pipe, cigar or
cigarette.
The man whose head fo r figures
turned out this information also es
timates that the time lost by the
smokers In lighting mntches— not In
smoking— Is worth $513,024 each eight-
hour working day.
H e arrived at his estimate by figur
ing that It takes 15 seconds to scratch
a match and use the light, and that
213,759 men whose time Is worth 30
cents an hour nre holding matches at
the same time, thus losing golden min
utes at the rate o f $1,008 a minute, or
$04,128 an hour.
No one, so fa r as w e can learn, has
figured out how large a percentage o f
the match scratchers throw away the
matches while they are still burning;
but It lias been estimated that a half
o f tho fires, which cost the United
States $250,000,000 a year, are caused
by carelessness.
Wood, phosphorus, chlorate o f pot
ash, rosin, whiting and powdered flint
are the makings o f this little device.—
Popular Science Monthly.
First to Originate and
Use Forks and Napkins on
• Table of Family Home
HATS MAY BE MADE A T HOME
An interesting gown which combines
The sklrt o f ^
charmeuse is one
flowered georgette crepe and white or-
those gracefully draped affairs
gandie is the model having the ruf- w,l|ch are always successful when
tied side panel. In this material white developed In n supple fabric like char-
flowers are scattered on
a pink meuse.
ground. The waist o f this
dress ).« The snmrt sailor " orn wIth t,lls cn^
verv simple and it depends upon the *ume
black with a trimming o f stiff
beauty o f its material rather
than on
feathers that curl on the ends,
the elaboration of its lines for success.
Another Gown With Side Panels.
The sleeves are sewed into a plain
Another gown which displays side
blouse which is cut nway in front to panels is in the soft lines o f gray
display a vest o f hnnd-tucked organdie georgette crepe. The blouse o f this
dress is kimono with n deep fold o f
georgette over the shoulders to out
line the square neck and display the
front o f soft cream lace which ex
tends into a camisole beneath the gray
georgette blouse. The sleeves o f this
gown are one o f its cool features,
being three-quarter length and quite
wdde. The deep turned-back cuffs are
embroidered with two garlands o f
steel beads. This same embroidery
appears across the shoulder straps.
The girdle o f this graceful model gives
a striking note o f color to the whole
gown. It is made o f two bands o f
soft taffetu ribbon, one vivid green-
blue and the other o f grayish-rose.
T h e flowers on the girdle are hand
made from these shades o f taffeta
with a touch o f apple green.
An Unusual Model.
Gown of Green Charmeuse, With
Waist of Green and White and
Striped Georgette.
Estimate Shows 8,000,000
CUPBOARD FROM WOODEN BOX Smokers Scratch 10,000
Women and Girls Did Red
Matches Every Second-
Little Receptacle That Will Net
Cross Work During War Useful
15 Seconds Each Scratoh
Cost Much to Make and le Ex
FLIMSY STOCKINGS OR NONE?
Opinion of French Leaders of Fash
ion Seems to Be Divided on
the Subject
There Is at present waging a very
interesting controversy in the minds
o f those who deal in footgear foi
American women. It is all about ths
new fashion in Paris o f wearing laced
slippers, which sometimes are no more
than heeled sandals— with or without
stockings.
In Paris these slippers are quite th«
expected .thing.
Everybody wear«
them. Thnt is, everybody wears a slip
per that is laced over the Instep and
about the ankle. Some o f the French
women, o f course, wear sandals, and
most o f them wear stockings. It le
perfectly true that stockings are some
times dispensed with nnd very elab
orately Jeweled sandals are fashioned
to wear with bare feet. But fo r the
most part stockings are worn, albeit
they are o f the flimsiest texture and
are often flesh-colored, so that their
presence Is not noticeable. They are
then but a slight barrier interposed be
tween the world nnd the bare, bare
skin.
A ll sorts o f things'are done to keep
those new, flimsy stockings from ob
livion.
“ Fingers were made before forks,”
and that Is why we have napkins.
Existence todny would be bad In
deed without that most essential o f
all table appointments, the napkin.
But can one conceive o f Its Impor
tance to our ancestois, who only a few
hundred years ago ate without forks?
For, as we know, it was not until
the seventeenth century that forks
made their bow to the most elite so
ciety of England, ns a substitute for
the time honored fingers.
In Ho-1
garth’s picture o f a “ Guildhall Ban
quet” the whole Illustrious company
are seen eating with their bands.
Small wonder at the necessity fo r the
nnpkin, which was used not only dur-
lng the meal itself, but afterward
served the purpose o f a towel.
And then It was Italy, the home of
reawakened fastidiousness, as well as
the renaissance o f art, that came fo r
ward with the inspiration fo r the new
adjunct of the table, the fork, which
somewhat modified uses o f the nnpkin.
But as long indispensable, the nap
kin had become second nature and sur
vives to our day.
INTERESTING FACTS
r
Telegraph girls employed by
the London genera! post office
now number more than 0,500.
The height o f St. Paul's ca
thedral, London, is as mnny feet
as there are days In the year.
In Sweden the public houses
nre closed on Saturday, pay day,
while the savings hanks are
kept open until midnight.
Before the war the number o f
people in Great Britain holding
government securities was 340,-
000; today It Is more than 20,-
000,000.
The palace o f the former
man emperor In Berlin at
time kept 5(X> housemaids
1,800 liveried footmen In
ployment.
Ger
one
and
em
Parrot and Raven Live to Be
90 and 100 Years Old
Some birds live to n great age. The
age o f 90 Is known to have been
reached by a gray parrot, and there
are many statements o f birds o f the
parrot fam ily having lived for over a
century. The raven also Is credited
with having reached 100 years. Tho
domestic goose Is another long-living
bird. Mnny instances are kno\\n of
geese attaining 40 years. The ordinary
domestic fow l Is seldom allowed to die
o f old age, but in some country places
old hens that have been made pets of
are to be seen and are allowed to
remain until they are 10 or 12 years
old, having long previously ceased
to lay.
COMMON METHODS OF
STORING CABBAGES
Pull Roots and All, and Set Side
by Side in Trench. *
Provision Should Bo Made for Remov
ing Portions of Stored Product
From Time to Time— Good Re
mits Are Obtained.
(Prepared by the United States Depart
ment of Agriculture.)
Heads o f late cabbage may be cut
and stored In conical pits In the same
manner as beets. Another common
and very satisfactory method Is to pull
the plants, roots and all, and place
them In a long pit with the heads
down. A few heads may be removed
from time to time without disturbing
Fig. 1.— Cross Section of a Cabbage
Storage Pen Made of Stakes and
Poles and Covered With Straw—
This Is a Good W ay to Store Cab
bage.
the remainder o f the pit. As slight
freezing does not Injure the cabbage,
the covering o f the pit need not be as
thick as for other vegetables.
Another good method o f storing cab
bage Is Illustrated In figure 1. The
plants nre pulled, roots and all, and
set side by side with the roots down In
a shallow trench, the length o f which
corresponds to the width o f the bed.
The bed may be any width up to 8 or
10 feet and ns long as necessary to
hold the number o f cabbages to be
stored. Cover the roots with earth.
Around the bed erect a frame o f rails,
boards or poles, or by driving a row o f
stakes Into the ground so that an ln-
closure about two feet In height Is
formed. Bank the outside o f this frame
with dirt and place poles across the
top, covering them with straw, hay or
corn fodder. Make provision fo r re
moving portions o f the stored product
from one end o f the pit. This type o f
storage Is Inexpensive and gives good
Cabbages Stored in Long Banka—
Good Drainage Is Essential, but Dirt
Covering Need Not Be as Thick as
for Vegetables That Are Easily In
jured by Frost.
results. When the heads are cut, leave
the roots In position, and in the spring
these roots will sprout and supply the
fam ily with an abundance o f greens.
A large percentage o f the cabbage
sprouts found on the market are pro
duced in this way.
Heads o f cabbage may be laid in
rows on shelves In an outdoor storage
cellar, but not In a storage room in the
basement o f a dwelling, as the odor is
likely to penetrate through the house.
WHEN HONEY BEE W ILL STING
Persons Dressed In Black Garments
8hould Exercise Caution In
Handling Insects.
Dark colors seem to be more offen
sive to bees than light, and the per
son dressed in dark garments should
show more caution when handling
these useful Insects. Offensive odors
are also objectionable to them, and the
person recently returning from work
ing in the stable or whose perspiration
has a distinct odor should show some
discretion In making himself fam iliar
around the beehive.
MUCH SOIL FERTILITY LOST
Prevent Eroeion or Washing by Keep
ing Lande in Sod and by Filling
Gulliee.
(Prepared by the United States Depart
ment of Agriculture.)
MODI8H NOTES.
Much soil fertility Is lost every win
ter by soli washing or erosion. Put
a stop to It by keeping the hilly lands
in sod, planting n cover crop, nnder-
With the Indiana mint growers rea drainage, filling the gullies with brush,
lizing $250 to $300 an acre, reports etc.
given out by a county agent and a gov
ernment crop estimator, show that St.
Joseph county Is the largest mint
production county In the United States, Procedure le Wholly Practical and
and Indiana produces two-thirds o f the
Within Power of Large Per
mint o f the United States. During the
centage of Owners.
summer senson, 3,425 acres o f mint
were under cultivation and produced
Experience covering a period of
a record-breaking crop. This year the several years has proved beyond a
yield near Nappnnee has been unusual doubt that a herd o f cattle can be
ly large and the farmers have received freed o f tuberculosis, and kept free,
as high as $0.25 a pound fo r theli and that the procedure la entirely
mint.
practical a.,d within the power of a
large percentage o f owners.
Browns are the first choice among
colors fo r falL
Tailored blouses fo r fall are made o f
heavy satin.
Blouse coats are really becoming
only to small women.
Always use a narrow leather belt
with your linen frock.
Some coats have a panel back long
er than the sides.
Gulmpes with square Dutch necks
are conspicuous.
Scientific American farming meth
ods nre being introduced in Crete and Feed Saved In Proportion to Gain
Greece through the agricultural sur
Made in Weight— Hogs Ready
vey thnt is being made there by the
for Market Sooner.
American Red Cross under the direc
tion o f Major C. G. Hopkins o f the
Fatten hogs on self-feeders as far
Bllnols ngrtcultnrnl department, and as possible. Hogs fed In this way
Lieut. G. J. Bouyoucos, a native Greek save labor, save feed In proportion to
educated in America, nnd n former the gain In weight made, and are
instructor at Michigan agricultural ready fo r market sooner than those
college.
Which are hand fed.
St. Joseph County, Indiana,
Largest Producer of Mint.
KEEP HERD FREE OF DISEASE
Introducing Farming Methods.
SELF-FEEDERS VERY USEFUL