UC
ARE ECONOMIZING
ON DRESSMAKING
caa clothes this spring. Our designers
have had the courage to show them In
connection with the French gowns, and
It Is easily proved that In several Im
portant houses the American woman
chooses her entire spring wardrobe 1
from American designs, rather than
French ones.
One o f the reasons for this is that i
Paris has not laid unusual stress upon
the tailored costume, and the Amerl-
HOW FIELD PEAS ARE HARVESTED AND
furnaces. The entire property bm
longed to Purcell, but was of llttte
apparent value. H e greeted Mr. Ran
dall civilly.
“ I’ve come from your beat friend,**
) spoke the lawyer. “ He wants you tn
I
accept a pension, a free and clear
town residence, an automobile and—•**
Gabriel Purcell burst out Into a
Many Women Employing Seam
By V IC TO R REDCLIFFB
hearty laugh. He held in his hand a
stresses to Make New or
letter he had Just received from bis
son. He was strangely changed from
Alter Old Garments.
(C op yrigh t, l i l t . W estern Newspaper U nion.)
the wandering misanthrope of the
“ You see the big entrance to the early morning.
“ Stop right there, Mr. Randall,” h#
factory. Beyond, a great broad stair
READY-TO-WEAR IN DEMAND
way leading to the offices. A fter thajt said heartily. “ I understand Mr.
the draughting rooms. Then building Wynne and he understands me. The
after building, pattern lofts, machine new experiment Is forced on him, ami
French and American Deelgnert Are
rooms, molding floors. Well, thirty no hard feelings. It won’t go through.
Working in Harmony, With Gowns
years, boy ami man, I ’ve gone up those Remember what I say, that before a
of the Latter Highly In
stairs, kept going till I mounted high year Is out I ’ll be hack and the old sys
Favor.
er and higher, and became superintend tem resumed. And say.” aud the old
ent, then— follow me a bit, and I ’ll man’s eyes glowed. “ I ’ll he able to help
New York.— A man who likes sta
show you the other side of the pic 1 him out If he finds he’s cramped fo r
i capital.”
tistics has given out a statement that-
ture."
The lawyer eyed Purcell as though
more spools o f thread have been sold
Thus Gabriel I'urcell, sturdy old dis
aince America went Into war than
ciplinarian o f fifty. He did not look he was getting rid of his senses.
"Oh, I ’m not talking wild,” chuckled
ever before In its history.
It. he did not feel It. His voice was '
This Is taken to Indicate that there
clear as a clarion note, his eye was the old man. He waved the letter in
Is an Important revival of home dress
full o f fire and power.
Just a wee his hand towards the old quarry plL “ I
making. It Is difficult to prove this
stoop o f the shoulders threw the stal ! own that, you know.”
“ That hole In the ground, you
condition o f affairs, a prominent fash
wart figure hut of direct plumb line,
ion correspondent writes, but the
and the silvering hair was touched mean?”
"Exactly, and It’s going to be a gold
spools o f thread aro good enough evi
with the first frost of time and win
I mine.”
dence that the women on this con
ter.
^
“ I can’t make out Purcell,” reported
tinent are employing seamstresses -to
He carried a magnificent gold-head
make new gowns for them or to alter
ed cane under Ills arm, disdaining It» ! the lawyer to Mr. Wynne. “ He talks
Mowing Machine Equipped for Cutting Field Peaa— Attachment to Cutting use ns a support and only taking It millions.
He's got some dream o f
old ones. And they are also doing
Bar Automatically Removea Hay From Swath and Placet It In Wlnd- with him for company because It was wealth and he seems happy as a lark.
their own sewing.
rowa.
On the other hand, the shops Insist
the cherished gift o f some cheap He says he’ll be back tn a year.”
“ I honestly hope it,” groaned Mr.
that the sale o f ready-to-wear gar
(Prepared by the United States Depart Its high protein content. It makes a shovel men In the factory, wjio loved
ment of Agriculture *
ments has been Immensely stimulated
Wynne.
"Already some o f the mod
better balanced ration and keeps better him and his Just, helpful way as If
The proper time to cut field peas for when combined with small grain, he hnd bpen nn own father to them. ern efficiency tactics o f the new su
by the war. Women who are giving
hay Is when most o f the pods are well which should be mixed with the peus Gabriel Purcell led his companion, nn perintendent have set the older work
their time to war relief work are will
formed, since considerable o f the nu in sowing If the crop Is Intended-es old-time friend, making a brief visit ing gangs hy the ears, and they aru
ing and anxious to get costumes with
trient value of the plant is contained pecially for ensilage.
the least possible expenditure o f vital
to the town, around the great »tone quitting hy the score."
In the seed. When seeded In mixtures
ity to themselves, and this can be
Mr. Wynne put himself out o f th#
The field peas Intended for ensilage wall Inclosing thp plant, and then
with graiu, the time o f cuttlug may be
achieved through the ready-to-wear
usually are planted in mixtures with swung his cane to where a long ste«‘P way to meet Purcell whenever ho
governed to some extent by the ma-
departments.
bald barley and cut when the barley chute ran from the upper floor o f the i could. He was surprised, pleased and
1 turlty of the grain, but the varieties
Those who keep shops also claim
Is ripe. Yield average from eight to tin specialty shops to the barren rear gratified to note the glad, sincere wel
of peas and grain used in the mixture
that women o f small means are buy
Down It was now pouring the come of the discarded faithful old fel
twelve tons to the acre. Pea ensilage yard.
should be chosen that the crop can be
ing better materials and paying more
Purcell was more than
has a higher feeding value than corn scraps, refuse, waste of the factory. low worker.
fo r their clothes than they have ever
harvested at the most favorable pe-
“The dump head— see It, Farlclgh?” friendly, he was cheerful, loquacious,
ensilage, but should be fed In connec
done In the history o f American com
rl«*d o f maturity for both. Formerly,
tion with a grain ration. For fatten questioned the old man bitterly. and referred constantly to his "vaca
merce In apparel.
a crop o f field peas was considered
ing both cattle and sheep It has given “That’s me— in at the front, rushed tion.” and blinked Jocularly at the
Those who think out the situation
very difficult to hurvest, and much of
excellent results, but is most popular through, worked out and thrown on founder and referred to “ the good old
•ay that this Is due to the employment
the harvesting was done with a scythe
times coming hack all new."
the dump head!”
with the dairyman.
o f thousands o f women in new ways.
or an old-fashioned cradle. This was
Then os rife h period o f care and
At that same hour Thomas Wynne,
One source o f pea ensilage Is the
Instead o f these women purchasing
thought necessary, first, because the
head o f the great Wynne company, sat trouble for the plant. A good many e L
refuse
of
peg
canneries.
This
material
cheap, tawdry things, they add $10 or
vines are often tangled and, second,
facing his attorney In his private of- the old expert workmen sought new
»15 ,to the price of a costume and
because o f the loss from shattering Is not often placed in a regular silo, ! flee.
fields of labor. The new superintend
buy a gown that gives steady service.
| where mower and rake are used. There but js stacked up green as It comes from
“ The fart Is, Wynne, Isn’t It that ent took a large contract at a loss.
the
cannery
and
allowed
to
ferment
In
America Has Done Her Part.
Is now available, however, an attach
Purcell Is Oslerlzed,” submitted the In rushing a special order they fo r
the stacks.
The one outstanding episode In the
ment for the ordinary mower which
feited the trade of one o f their old
latter.
Interesting and Important movement
consist* o f guards that extend In front Field Peas as a Green-Manure and
“ Don’t use the word Jauntily. Ran- est and most substantial clients.
Cover Crop.
• f spring clothes, Is the immense
I of the cutter bar, lifting the vines off
Meanwhile, something that puzzled
I dall,” returned the founder, “ hut that
•trlde in designing that America hus
The field pea Is well suited fo r use about covers It. You don’t know bow
the ground, so that the mower can pass
the townspeople w hs going on at tha
taken.
underneath without becoming eutang- as a green-manure crop In orchards I It jars on me to face the merest Im old quarry. Near the edge of the big
All that has gone before was ex
led In the vines themselves. There Is and is used quite extensively for this putation of Injustice regarding Pur-
pit new tracks were laid, a large
perimental, but this spring the clothes
Bias tunic is a chosen drapery. It is alsp a windrow attachment which e f purpose in the citrus orchards o f Cal 1 cell. H e hns been my right hand since weighing scale put In, derricks erect
are good. They make no pretention
shown In this gown by Premet of Paris, fectually removes the peas from the ifornia. No other crop except vetch i I started In here with n little twenty ed, and scoops, elevating and lower
mt changing the silhouette as laid
in biscuit-colored gaberdine with deep swath and leaves them In a windrow is so well adapted for this use In the I h.v forty shed of a shop, and lias help- ing machinery. Purcell hustled about,
down by the Paris designers; the only
collar of brown faille. It is soutached behind the mower. Where such an at southern part of that state.
i ed build the business up to Its pres the busiest, cheeriest being ever was,
drastic revolution In silhouette which
tachment Is not used It is necessary
with brown braid.
When used for green manure the ent up-to-date proportions. You know and his sou Arnold made frequent In
has been attempted by this country,
to have a man with a fork follow the peas should not be plowed under un i how fifteen years ago my wife lnherlt- spection visits to the «Id home at the
can woman had reverted to It. She mower and move the vines to one side, i til they have reached their maximum
took place last summer, when the nur-
! ed a large estate and supplied one quarry p it
wants to appear In a simple hut dis so that the team and mower will not growth, unless other conditions con
hundred and fifty thousand dollars
One day, like a thunderclap, cam*
tinguished costume when she is in the pass over the peas In the follow ing nected with the main crop require capital to expand the enterprise. Well,
the news that the big plant was abut
street. The American tailoring is the round. The peas can be left In the that the plowing be done earlier.
recently a younger brother o f hprs, down pending a reorganization. T h *
best in the world, and the American windrow or bunched with a rake and
The most favorable time will prob what you may call a mechanical the new superintendent had resigned.
designer contrives to get the best ef left until dry and ready to stack.
ably be reached, about the time the orist and ultra-system man, got the Some outside stockholders had becorn*
fect out of tailored material, whether When slacked In the open It is neces
Idea In his head that he could com e alarmed at the reports o f fast shrink
first pods are well filled.
he is making a frock or a coat suit.
sary
protect the stacks by means
The varieties selected for use us a In here and double up profits In a ing profits, and had thrown their hold
France does not care for such o f cantos covers or with a layer o f
ings on the market at a ruinous de
green immure or a cover crop should ' year.”
clothes, her women wear them only green grass placed over the top.
“ But what Interest has he In the cline.
be
those
which
are
known
to
be
adapt
under protest, and there is always a
The field pea should be cut fo r seed
business?"
.
That very morning a train o f 50
sash, or a piece o f embroidery, or an when the pods are fully mature and the ed to the locality, and one with a good-
“ None, except through the courtesy rondola dump cars gracefully wound
unusual addition o f lingerie, or a peas have become firm. It Is not well, sized vine Is to be preferred over those
of my w ife and »nme relatives who are round from the main railroad track*
bizarre splash o f something that however, to wait until the vine and that make a heavy yield o f seed. The
also stockholders.
O f course I can’t and half encircled the quarry pit. Each
large
Marrowfat
peas,
such
as
the
Ca
changes the mannish severity o f the pods are both dry. since If that is done
gainsay her.
Her estate owns con car was weighed, the contents dumped,
nadian
Beauty,
Arthur,
Paragon,
and
American national costume into some the loss from shuttering is sure to be
Mackay, are well adapted for this pur siderable o f the company stock. She | and the train returned to the city.
thing with coquetry that melts Into the large.
pose, as are also the Prussian Blue aud helpeil build me up. I can’t afford to * Ashes, building debris, all the dally
personality of the French women.
I f the pens are rained on during the Wisconsin Blue.
quibble with her.
I bail to super accumulated rubbish Hnd waste o f a
Seeing their opportunity and grasp period while they are curing In the
cede
Purcell.
My
brother-in-law Is great; city was represented In this first
The use o f a green-manure crop is
ing it as they have never done before, windrow or In bunches, they should be
now In charge o f the mechanical de dumping Into that useless, valueless,
the American tailoring establishments turned over as soon as the top of the profitable only In sections where suffi
partments. ’ Jfounger men. stricter
almost fathomless quarry pit.
have worked wonders. They have, kept bunch Is dry. I f this is not done the cient soil moisture Is present to cause
rides, more business, higher profits, his
' Thomas Wynne looked up from his
the
qub-k
decay
o
f
the
vegetable
mat
•<> ‘ he government’s req" *st fo r the peas underneath will swell and burst
aim. W e shall see how It work» out.”
desk In the office of the deserted plant
ter turned under.
■III., mtieii of wool ns fa r ms p « . slide,
the pods, so that when they became
Mr. Wynne sighed?
as Gabriel Purcell entered. The found
miic I lie) ! i : i \ e achieved cos m i l e s lhat
dry a great percentage will shell out
"W e shall. Indeed," muttered the er’s face was worn and drawn.
■ire iiiimutly tilling and dlsling-,1 shed
and be left on the ground. Whenever BLACKLEG CAUSED BY GERMS lawyer cynically.
“ Is It as had as they say?" ques
on i lie A nci-h :in figure, and for the possible, the peas which are Intended
“ Yes, that Isn’t all, Randall," re tioned Purcell.
■>••!• * 1 1 1 111 \ of i h e A n u T i i - M o woman. for threshing should be staiked under
Highly-Bred Calve« Should Be Vac sumed the manufacturer. “ I am ap
“ Worse. Outside o f my w ife’s cap
More pow er to I he .1 !
cinated Before It Pick» Up
a shed, hot If necessary to build the
proaching a delicate subject.
You ital I hare no resources. I most have
The New French Draperies.
rick outside. It must he protected as
Little Organism».
know that Purcell has h son who Is two hundred thousand dollara to get
The severity lhat America lays down noted for hay.
the pride o f Ids soul and the apple of hack where we were before this
lor us In the morning i> easily «-Imaged
Blackleg Is caused by a small germ, Ills eye, Arnold Purcell.”
The threshing of the field pea Is usu
ghastly experiment was made, or go
illto a llollling gnicefiilile- s i i s laid ally done with an ordinary grain sep an organism about one three-thou
“ Yes,” nodded the lawyer, and It was Into bankruptcy.”
down by France for the late nfie nooD arator fitted up especially for the pea sandth of an Inch long. This organism palpably apparent that the mention
“ Good!” cried Purcell animatedly.
and evening.
; t v the substitution o f blank concave multiplies very rapidly hy oue organ- aroused pleasant sentiment*. “ A fine “ I'll provide the deficit am«>unt for a
It Is yet lo he seen whetfu-r America t*N*th helow the cylinder. Usually four
sm dividing Into two individuals and young man. an ex«-eptlonal one, they dike amount of stock.”
will go in extensively for afttrnoou concave teeth are sufficient to retard these again dividing In the same way. say. Capable, ambitious, high grade.
“ You?" cried Wynne Incredulously.
gowns, Hceordlng to the French cus ♦he passage of the vines long enough Also by producing very much smaller I bear that lie has won quite some
"M yself and my son, yea. You see,
tom, but there Is cue thing of which so that the cylinder will break up the spores or seeds. These «pores are very eminence a* an advanced sanitary en
old friend, the quarry pit.
Arnold 1s
we are quite certain; If the Amerh-an pods and release the seeds. Kv thus hardy and resist extreme heat and gineer.”
the head expert in recovery and dis
woman likes an afternoon gown, she limiting the number o f concave teeth colrl. remaining alive sometimes for
“ Very well, by some strange freak
will wear It through the evening, un and reducing the speed o f the cylinder ! many years. As a consequence when of destiny he and my daughter, Elel- posal work for the city. We are only
12 miles away, and the nearest avail
less some formality of euterlah rneut Shout one-half it Is possible to thresh a pasture, corral or feedlot Is once nore, met at,a social function In the
able dumping pit. They have bee*
demands a more ornamental frock.
the field pea without cracking any run- contaminated with tha organism there city.
Plainly, they are In love with
carrying the refuse out Into the lake,
France has cut her silhouette as llderable percentage o f the seeds.
is no telling how long It will harbor each other.
I am no aristocrat, I
hut the barge rates have become pr*-
the Infection. Disinfecting such prem sprung from nothing, ns <11 <1 Gabriel
slim as the American designer has cut
Pasturing Field Peas.
Jllfcltlve. in fact, we have a ten years’
My wife, however, a» you
It for tailored costume«, but France
It Is a common practh-e In some lo ises Is Impractical. Safety lies In vac Purcell.
contract for disposing of the rubblah
gives a note of the First Umpire in the calities to harvest the crop hy pas cination. In all contagious or germ know, draws the line at social dis
at forty «-ents s cubic yard.
F ifty
seductive way In which she drapes this turing with Imgs or sheep.
Many j l diseases the animals moat likely to get tinction*. or rather those o f wealth.
ears
a
«lay
and
all
profit,
but
the
narrow foundation with floating, trans formers, however. Hre discontinuing sick are those whose eonstltutlon la She has flatly told young Purcell that
weighing. Figure It up, and don’t won
parent material.
the prncth-e of pasturing their field ■ more or less weakened from any canse Klstriore must never marry a man who
der that We are able to anticipate a
The trick is not confined to house pens on account o f waste and are har I —at weaning lime, niter changing from has not a» large a fortune as her
million In payment any time we want
own.”
vesting
«11
nr
part
of
their
crop
anil
poorly fed to heavy feeding or vice
costumes; It plays a good role In street
It.”
“ And Arnold Purcell?”
gowns also. In a modified and demure feeding It In a feed lot. A combina versa. Immunizing beforehand Insure«
“ And you propose— "
"Ask* time to make good the condi
manner. A tunic of Georgette crepe, tion o f pasture and dry feed has been safety. Highly bred calvea are also
"T o go hack to tny ohl Job and run
for example, will be dropped over a found best. The animals after a pe more sunceptlblo than scrub«. Many tion."
the plant on the old safe, sensible ha
“ Great for him!
H e’ll make It,"
slim underslip of silk or satin, and the rils) of pasturing make better gains on operators report perfect results when
st». Old friend,” suggest eil Purcell,
sleeves will float away from the arms dry feed than where given dry feeil they vaccinate at the same time they declared the lawyer with confidence.
with twinkling eye«, “ did It happen to
Doeuillet of Paris builds a black
"The young man has not advised hi*
and come back suitdenly to the wrists, during the entire feeding period. A l brand, dehorn, or castrate. Vaccinate
occur to you that In Oslerizlug the
aatln evening gown into something ex where they are tightly caught In. But falfa or sweet-clover pasture used In anv time for blackleg.
father or others of Ida love affalra,”
traordinary by using tinkling strings
pl»nt you forgot that you were ten
"H e and Elsinore seem
this gown will n«,t be accepted by the conne« tlon with field peaa noticeably
When a cnlf Is turned upon Infected »aid Wynne.
• f Jet from shoulder to knees. The
Increases the rapidity o f gain.
American woman for the street.
ground It picks up some o f the spores to have settled down to sensible, dig years older than myself?”
Egyptian girdle Is of velvet.
And then when affairs had been
The field |*ea 1» often sown In rnlx- which gain entrance to the body In nified patience and mutual fidelity. He
French Clothes Allow Economy.
There Is a strong note of economy tnres with small grains, primarily to v idoua ways — through the bruised doe* not Intrude htmaelf upon her readjusted and Arnold Purcell quail-
row aklrt which pulled upward from
He 1« pursuing the even
fled fully as a meet snltor for pretty,
struck I d these new French clothes, hold the vines off the ground snd thus »«.In, through the mouth either wllh company.
the knees to the back and fltilshed with
patient Elsinore. and the old cheerful
tener
of
hi*
way,
aud
she
la
content,
make
the
harvesting
of
the
crop
easy.
nnfmal
licking
Itself
These
spores
which Is heard hy the woman who Is
a bustle effect at the end of the spine,
ft la the father I worry a boat. I
hum o f Industry cheered the content
hiring a seamstress to build up her Oats are more often used for this pur Immediately com« Into active life,
was throw» Into the sreua of clothes.
ed workmen at the plant, Thomas
spring wardrobe at borne. It shows pose than the other grains, although begin to grow and mnttlply, and If the want you to go and see him, amfihere
It aot only won out, although it was
Wynne and Gabriel Purcell, again In
barley Is used to some extent and the food and water or merely hy the la the memoranda of what I want to
the
way
to
alter
old
gowns
Into
new
the work of one designer, but It coin
do for him.”
the right groove, felt as though they
ones. The majority o f ,women own wheat In a few casea. The yield 1« animal la a susceptible one It con
cide« entirely with the clothes that
Mr Randall departed with Ida In had stepped back Into the magic en
evening frocks that have good founda nearly always larger when oats are tracts the disease, f f It la Immune
Farts sent over last month.
thusiasm of their earlier years.
He found Pun-ell at hi»
tions, the skirts a tlifls too full. It Is Used than wltli either barley or when:. the germ will have no effect whatever struction*.
This season the two cnnnfries go
home. The latter had been a wid
Mixtures are reeornmended In all cases upon It. Therefore, Immunize the calf
true,
but
otherwise
ready
to
serve
as
band Irf hand. The sllhonette Is the
M od«» * f Pregreee.
the beginning of a new frock. The al where the crop Is to he used exduelve- with a reliable vaccine before It pick* ower for many year* and lived la a
name— narrow, with floating draperies.
cnmfertahle, but small house at the
"Tou need axarclae. You ought to
teration m the skirt Is a simple one. It ly for hay. The presen«-e of oats or up these orfanlams.
Take that one condition as the founda
edge o f the town.
It overlooked a
walk to work."
consists o f straightening out ell the barley In the pea hay makes a better
tion «tans and then build as yoa
deep pit nearly a quarter o f a mile
Manure Rlefi In Plant Feed.
seams, so that there la no ia re froth quality o ' feed than pea hay alona.
“ It can't b* tone frqm our xubwfc.
please 1« the alogeu given 4 o every
In extant, to which a apur o f the rail I n may snow-plow your wuy to r a k
Field Peaa as titag*.
Manure from (rain, meat and bone-
the blpe down.
road
ran.
For
tan
yanra
a
to
ft
U
a
e
It la not economical to put the field fad bens la vary rich la plant food
T n may elide oe you may com* pretty
(Copyright, )*)(. hy the MeClare Nswspi
American Designs Preferred.
qaarry had hoaa gained hern to soar (wtaamlag to week. Bat j w
fia* la th# Rio alone, on account o f tad Is -early equal to (nan*.
.
par hy M l cote.)
On# la immensely proud at
1 • !• « mixture tor the M f Meat
never M tuUy walk.”
UTILIZED AS FEED FOR FARM ANIMALS
\v
“Too Old