TWO-FABRIC SUITS SOME SOBER GOWNS
Vary Smart Outfit for Gonoral Sensible and Economical Fabrics
Summer Wear.
• A
O n # #f N tw e it Idea* Is Squara-Cut
C#at of W hite or Light-Colored
Fabric— Topping Dark Skirt.
Coats of plain dark material, such
as velvet, velveteen, serge, wool, Jer
sey or satin, combined with gay
striped or checked skirts, have been
featured for sports wear through the
winter. The sleeveless dark coat worn
over a light-colored blouse, the two
topping a striped or checked skirt, has
also been much In evidence o f late.
One of the newest Ideas In sports ap
parel is the square-cut coat o f white
or light-colored fabric, topping a dark
striped or checked skirt.
The sketch illustrates a very smart
sports suit for summer wear.
The
skirt is of black and white striped
satin, and the coat is of plain white
heavy satin, with scarf collar faced in
black. Tiny turn-back cuffs o f black
finish the plain sleeves, and large black
satin-covered buttons fasten the coat.
The skirt of this suit is laid in box
plaits. Black and white satin ribbon
might be attractively and conven-
New Idea in Sports Apparel.
tantly used for this purpose, the seams
necessary to join the ribbon strips be
ing concealed by the overlapping
plaits.
The coat has been christened the
“ pony” coat, and in various forms it is
made a part o f many spring suits de
veloped in one fabric only. Sometimes
the coat reaches only to the hips and
is open in front to admit a gay-colored
vest or vestee, and again it is long
enough to be used as a separate sports
coat. Straightness of line is its inva
riable rule.
Not Disregarded.
Black Satin, Blue Serge, Gray Jersey
Cloth and Shades ef Gaberdine
Ruling Street Costumery.
There is no disposition shown by the
French designers, as they have ex
pressed their genius in the new clothes,
to omit all the fabrics that are sensible
and economical.
Black satin, blue
serge, gray Jersey cloth and several
shades of gaberdine are ruling street
costumery.
Metal tissues and laces are lavishly
used for the afternoon and the eve
ning, but they are sobered by miles
of chiffon.
Sturdy crepe de chine,
which looks fragile and is not, is o f
fered in the smartest gowns fo r the
street.
There are one-piece frocks as well
as suits, and capes have superseded
top coats.
Elaborate and expensive
embroidery has given way to ornamen
tation by means o f wool or twine, and
Intricate machine stitching is aban
doned in favor o f bits of applied ma
terial, straight rows o f military bra'd
or folds of corded satin.
Lace is used as though Belgium had
been reinstated and every one o f the
lace
weavers
working
overtime.
Flounces, capes, sleeves and panels o f
lace are dropped on narrow, slim un
derslips o f satin.
Satin and serge are combined for
those who want to wear a frock for
the next six months without feeling
uncomfortably warm or cold.
Waistcoats, the styles o f which were
drawn from all the epochs preceding
this one, are used in coats, which gives
the economical woman a chance to re
furbish her last year's suit and feel
herself quite in the picture.
The
French designers knew that they were
offering a sop to the economists in
promoting this accessory.
Sturdy pique has been revived fo r
those who do not care to Invest in
handkerchief linen, perishable batiste
or expensive flowered voile.
These
suits and frocks o f pique are trimmed
with velvet, as In older day*, and all
the dyes that France has manufac
tured for her own use have been
brought to bear upon white and cream
lace in order to make harmonious cos
tumes ; and this trick again gives the
woman of slender means a chance to
look exceedingly smart through the
medium o f dipping yellow lace in a
small quantity o f reliable dye.
Paris has sent over a multiple num
ber o f short, straight jackets, with
fronts that do not meet, and in the
space between is displayed a frilled
front with a turnover collar and a dot
ted foulard cravat. This little front
Is basted Into the coat, and thereby
saves one from using a whole shirt
waist, with its accompanying laundry
bill.
CAPE FOR SPRING WEAR
COATS WITHOUT ANY SLEEVES
Dolman Has Been Replsced This Sea
son by the Loose, Shapeless and
Sleeveless Outer Garment.
France likes the sleeveless idea in
garments so much that she has built
new coats that droop over the shoul
ders but have no sleeves. This is a
medieval idea that did not seem to
interfere with the comfort o f the men
and women o f the twelfth century,
when the weather was as cold as now
and the houses 100 per cent colder.
Among the materials that France of
fers to America in the building of
these sleeveless coats is a corded silk
and wool poplin. It used to be worn
by us. It was made into frocks and
wraps and turned out In those dolmans
that were trimmed with bugles and
paillettes and edged with fur.
This season the dolman has been re
placed by the loose, shapeless, sleeve
The reason for the popularity of
less coat.
This came over from
France, where It was worn on one of capes for the coming season is readily
the smart stages by an actress who explained by the existence of this
model of pearl-gray velour with Its
knows how to dress.
All the American shops are looking deep scarf collar edged with heavy ailk
to the French theater today fo r in fringe.
spiration. and the theaters themselves
Laundered Laces.
have burst into a new bloom o f life
Dainty laces should be washed In
and beauty through the presence of so
many thousands o f American soldier* the following way if you would keep
on leave with money In their pockets. their fresh, new look: Purchase 4
cents' worth o f benzoline; this spirit
Is highly Inflammable, so should be
Substitutes fo r Wool.
kept away from artificial light or fire.
The rough weave heavy silks are
Take two basins and into each put a
good substitutes for wools, and will
little o f the benzoline. Dip the lace
answer every purpose o f gaberdine or
In one, douse it up and down, then
serge and at the same time a little
squeeze gently and dip in the second
cooler for summer.
Silks of*this de
lot o f benzoline; by then all the dirt
scription can be used either In light or
will have dropped out. Shak<’ the lace;
dark tone*, and some models have been
it will dry <n a fow minutes and look
made up most successfully with flat
like new.
braid applied In smart conventional de
signs.
Pile Fabrics Still Used.
In view o f the shortage of wool fab
Vest Effects on Blouses.
ric* expected next winter. It is thought
Blonses o f sheer materials with vest that the various pile fabrics will be
like arrangements o f silk over them very much used. Plushes and veloura
are shown for aftentoon. It is to be fot coats are expected to be much in
supposed that the skirt would match demand and. of courae. fur coata tor
either the silk or the chiffon o f the those who can afford them.
hi ease.
ONE ON HUBBY
usually, bat nowadays girls are dola#
such odd things. Perhaps ths* is no
worse than being an elevator girl, and
one of the Van Dyckman girls— per
fectly splendid family, you know— has
Just gone In for that”
However, Dixon James was not quite
so resigned as was Mariana’s mother.
Mariana went ahead with her plans,
Make
and having applied for the position as
conductor, resignedly waited the threw
(Copyright, 1918, by th* McClure Newspa weeks that were to elapse before her
services would be needed. T o make
per Syndicate.)
the time pass more pleusantly, Dixon
When Mariana, In moments o f pa
got his mother to get up a house party
triotic fervor, thought of herself us
at their country place, and Mariana
braving the perils o f the ocean and
packed her little trunk and rehearsed
Bom* Breeders Prefer to Use Hens for doing her bit In France, it was always the new dance steps with considerable
as
an
ambulance
driver,
than
as
a
Hatching, as Geese Sometimes Be
enthusiasm.
trained nurse or an office worker. The
come Difficult to Manag*—
There was to be a little dance the
reason was not fa r to seek. Murianu,
first night o f the party and Mariana
Incubation Varies.
ever since she gave up riding side sad
was laying out her newest dancing
dle and equipped herself for a cross
(Prepared by the United States Depart saddle, hud been quite taken with her frock and other accessories on her
bed before dinner, when D ix’s mother
ment of Agriculture.)
own appearance in breeches. When
I — an old-fashioned little gray-haired
“ What is meant by a ‘melting pot,’
The successful raising of goslings
dressed her prettiest in filmy ruffles
lady with a twinkle in her brown
ma?”
should begin with feeding the geese an
and entrancing furbelows fo r a dance
eyes— knocked at her door.
egg-produciug
ration
during
the
latter
“ A Jackpot, my son, in which men
Mnriana hesitated before her pier
part of the winter or early spring. The
“ Mariana, dear,” she said, “ I am
burn their money.”
glass long enough to see that she had
geese should be allowed to make their been properly hooked up and that she asking you a favor that I don’t think
nests early in the spring on the floor had forgotten no necessary accessory, you’ll mind granting. First, did you
of the poultry house, or in large boxes,
bring any riding togs?”
but when she was dressed in her riding
barrels or shelters provided for the togs she stood long and admiring be
“ Oh, yes, indeed— I brought two sets
purpose.
fore the mirror, studied with infinite — Dix said there would be some riding.
The eggs should be collected daily satisfaction the straight line o f her I ’d love to let someone have either
and kept in a cool place where the con leather legging, the neat Juncture o f ou tfit”
tents will not evaporate too freely; if that legging with her tan boot, the im-
“That is sweet o f you, dear,” said I
kept for some time they may be stored mneulate trimness of her white pique the older woman, “ hot that isn’t the
in loose bran. The first eggs are usu stock, the severity o f her plain sailor favor. You see, we are two men shy. i
ally set under hens, while the last ones hat that hid almost all o f her pretty There are seven girls and only five*
which the gooae lays may be hatched curls and the well-tailored severity o f men— two o f the men have Just got
either under hens or under the goose, the coat that extended from her slight their commissions and had to disap
if she gets broody. If the eggs are not shoulders to her knees. She did not point us. Girls do dreadfully hate to
removed from the nest in which the admire the image because it was the dance with girls, but I thought fo r a
goose is laying she will usually stop reflection o f n charming and graceful lark you’d be wUIIng to ploy man. D ir
laying sooner than if they are taken young girl, but because it looked to her says you make u wonderful boy. You
away. Some breeders prefer to raise fo r all the world like a young boy. For understand— you wear your riding
ail the goslings under hens, as geese Mnriana was at the age where the things and piny man, w ill you?”
sometimes become difficult to manage greatest compliment anyone might
Mariana's enthusiasm was genuine,
when allowed to hatch and rear their have paid her was to tell her that she and willingly did she hang the pink
young. Hens used fo r hatching goose was not feminine, that she thought ruffles and furbelows back In the ward
eggs must be dusted with Insect pow like a boy and that she was free from robe and don her most boyish riding
su it
der and have good attention, as, in the any o f the foibles o f sex.
case of geese, the period o f incubation
“ You can lead, can’t you?” D ir
The very first day she met Dixon
is longer than In that o f fowls. Goos* James he had b“ en fortunate enough asked her after dinner when they had
eggs may b# hatched In incubators and to pay her a compliment o f this kind. cleared the floor fo r the little dance
the goslings successfully raised in H e had ridden across the country with and Mariana admitted that she could.
“ Oh, papa! Couldn’t you take Fred brooders, although this Is not a com her brother and reached the Burden “ It’s aw fully decent o f you. T il Intro
into your business?
H e’s so ambi mon practice.
house Just as she was mounting her duce you to the girls you don’t know.
Incubatlen ef Goos# Eggs.
tious, and we are to be married soon,
own horse fo r a country ride. So Dixon W e’ll call you Teddy to make it seem
The period o f incubation o f goose and the brother remounted their natural.”
too.”
Mariana had not at first realized
eggs varies from 28 to 30 days. Mois horses and started out again with
“ Er— what could he do?”
that she was to play the role o f Teddy
ture should b* added to the eggs after Mariana.
"W hy, couldn’t you make him prert-
fo r the entire house party, but she
the first week if set under hens or In
“ You know, I have never enjoyed
dent o f the business or something?”
Incubators; this is usually done by riding with a girl before so much as was, and so her dressing simplified
sprinkling the eggs or the nest with I have with you,” he told her. “ In itself to simply changing from one rid
ing suit fo r day wear to the other for
fact, you don’t seem like a girl. You’re
evening. In the meantime she danced
more like some awfully nice kid
only with girls and rode beside them
brother.”
and walked beside one o f the other o f
Marinna hnd treasured that compli them on all the little outings and really
ment. It was worth more than a dozen saw nothing o f Dix or any o f the other
o f the usual sort, and ever since that men.
day Mnriana had grown more and
A fte r all the guests had retired one
more addicted to the boyish costume night Marinna knocked at the door o f
and more and more rebellious against one o f the girls— one she hnd been
skirts. She had never been convinced escorting on u moonlight stroll that
one wuy or the other on the suffrage evening. “ I f you have two dressing
question, but when she learned that gowns, would you awfully mind lend
some o f the early suffragists hnd re ing me one? I ’ve only got the pajama
belled against skirts, she hnd declared sort, and— well, I am getting tired
herself a decided suffragist and rode wearing trousers. I want to he a girl
with her fnir hair streaming, In a coat — Just In my own room," And the
o f steel mall, to represent Joan o f Arc other girl laughingly handed Teddy
at the next suffrage procession.
her fluffiest, laciest pink chiffon negli
Then she bought n pair o f housework gee.
overalls and went about her own bed
By the end o f the five-days’ house
room and little sitting room mornings pnrty Marian went home, only with
dusting and putting things to rights in difficulty concealing her grievance
thnt costume. H er mother positively toward her hostess’ son, Dix. Even
forbade her going out o f her domain tually, o f course, the grievance made
The Teacher— Why, Jimmy, Jimmy t
in the costume. O f course all her Itself known to Dix aud there was an
H ave you forgotten your pencil again?
negligees were cut on pnjuma lines explanation.
Teddy was pouting a
W hat would you think o f a soldier go
and, inconsistent as was it with her little nnd blinked back a tear. T h e
ing to war without a gun?
suffrage conventions, she fancied that other wouldn’t blink back so “ he” drew
Jimmy— I ’d think he was un officer.
she would like to be a Turkish woman a filmy handkerchief from “ his”
because o f the bloomers.
breeches pocket and wiped It tenderly
“ I can do almost anything,” she told away.
her chum one day, “ If I am not ham
“ I ’m not a bit Jeulous,” Teddy began.
White Chinese Gander.
pered with petticoats. I ’m sure If I “ I don’t mind at all that you have gone
warm water. Four to six eggs are set ever make n name fo r m yself it w ill about with nil the other girls and
under a hen and ten to thirteen under be in breeches— riding breeches or haven't even looked at me, but— well,
a goose. They may be tested about the housework overalls, or somethlug o f I guess what makes me feel peeved
tenth day, and those which are infer that sort.”
is that I hud such a pretty dance frock
tile or contain dead germs should be
Then came the wnr and Illustrated with pink ruffles and laee and every
removed. They hatch slowly, especial newspaper supplements were flooded thing made Just for the party, and I
ly under hens, and the goslings are with pictures o f dairy girls In breeches, haven’t had It on once.”
usually removed as soon as hatched factory girls In overalls nnd street cur
This was D ix’s cue and he took It,
and kept in a warm place until the conductors In suits like the Roldler’s and as he gathered the tearful little
process is over, when they are put uniform. Manana felt devoutly thank- ! Teddy In his arms— they had met In
back under the hen or goose. Some ful that she had lived In an age when the woods by chance when gathering
breeders who hatch with both geese she might wear trousers and not be j «ticks for a picnic fire— lie explained
and hens give all the goslings to the t hooted like poor Amelia Bloomer and his entire plot to her. Yes, he loved
geese.
Hens with goslings may be those other worthy pioneers In petti- . her illstrni tedly, and had longed to be
confined to the coop and the goslings coat emancipation. The question was. with her every minute. But he wnnted
allowed to range. The latter, especial- j Just which line o f emancipated occu to make her give up the idea o f being
ly i f the weather is cold, are not usu- ; pation should she pursue. First she j n conductor— wnnted to show h er that
ally allowed to go Into water until they decided to he an ambulance driver, but ; sometimes there were advantages In
are several days old. In mild weather ! the idea struck every one as absurd. ! being just a girl.
the hens are allowed to brood the gos Particularly did Dixon James plead
lings from seven to ten days, when the with her to abandon this project.
Soldier’s Cobbler Kit.
latter are able to take care o f them
Our soldier boys learn many things
“ In the first place, they wouldn’t !
selves.
Good-sized growing coops,
have you,” he told her. “ You're only ! besides actual soldiering. When they
with board floors, should be provided
eighteen and you are too darned 1 return to their prosaic tasks after the
for the goslings, and they must he pro
pretty. What do you know about mix- ; war, there will lie many a bunk clerk,
two or three new vegetables, I be tected from their enemies and given
ing up with a lot o f rowdy soldiers? j fo r Instance, who will he eligible to
lieve.”
some attention when on range.
They won’t want girls like you— they j Join the cobblers' union. O f course
Feeding Gt«#e and Goslings.
want some big husky amazons that j there arc* shoe-repair stations nil along
Geese are generally raised where can give a hand to lifting stretchers j the lines o f battle, but so much de
they have a good grass range or pas and one that has nerves like Iron. You i pends upon the condition of his shoes
ture, as they are good grazers, and, ex say you couldn’t stand being n nurse. ' nnd his consequent foot-comfort, that
cept during the winter months, usually Why, my dear child, you’d have to go most o f the boys carry u little cob
pick up most of their living. The pas through more horrors as an ambulance I blers’ kit and mnke small repairs them
ture may be supplemented with light driver.”
selves. The kit consists primarily of
feeds of the common or home-grown
Finally she was dissuaded. *B u t : a hollow linndle, the top o f which un
grains or wet mash dally, the neces
eventually her mind was made up. screws to disclose the awl, screwdriver,
sity and quantity o f this feed depend- j
She read In some not distant city an cobblers’ tacks, and other essentials
log on the pasture. Goslings do not
appeal fo r street car conductors— fo r repair work. A t the opposite end
need feed until they are 24 to 36 hours
the kind that wore leggings nnd knee- o f the device Is a spool o f waxed twine,
old, when they should be fed any of
length coats and bloomers—and not which threads Immediately into the
the mashes recommended for chickens
the petticoat sort— she announced firm awl when the awl is screwed Into
or ducklings.
ly that she considered It her duty to place. When some other tool, such as
give her services as a conductor. She a screwdriver or knlfehlade, is to be
was going to release some man for used, It is screwed Into place Instead
service,
she
announced.
Arguing o f the awl. In addition to his shoes
First Essential Is Clsanllnesa In Han against her was ir. vain, and after sev the soldier may mend his torn leggings
dling Milk Utensils— Becond Is
eral family rouncll* o f war, It was de and his saddle straps.
to Keep Ceel.
cided to let her go her own sweet way.
Couldn't Scare Beavera
" It would usually be a fam ily dis
So troublesome have beavers be
It Is almost ns easy to produc* good grace,” her mother said to Dixon
cream as poor cream. The first essen James one day, for o f late Dixon was come to the farmers along the Walla
tial is cleanliness in handling tbs milk usually to be found somewhere about W alla river that one rune er erected
utensils, particularly ths ssparator. the Burden summer place. " It really a heaver "scarecrow,” which was ef
City Man— What do you d n woen The second is ia keeping the cream would be a scandal to have one’s fective the first night. On the second
your horse balks?
cool until delivered and making at least daughter be s street car conductor i night the beavers cut down the scare
tri-wsskly deliveries ia ■unuatr.
The Countrymen— Sell him.
crow and used it in their dam.
Ill EARLY SPRING
Fowls Should Be Allowed to
Their Own Nests.
KEEP EGGS IN A COOL PLACE
OR SOMETHING
POSTED
OFTEN DO
WHAT HE’D DO
PRODUCTION OF GOOD CREAM