Capital press. (Salem, OR) 19??-current, April 13, 2018, Page 23, Image 51

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    April 13, 2018
CapitalPress.com
23
Experimental orchard crafting cider success
By GAIL OBERST
For the Capital Press
CORVALLIS, Ore. — Sometimes, an apple
orchard is just what it appears: A place where
the owner grows apples, sells them for fruit or
juice in the fall, and then repeats the process
the following year.
But now and then, an apple orchard is a les-
son. What began for 2 Towns Ciderhouse own-
ers as a way to produce the hard-to-find “old
world” craft cider apples in their own Corvallis
orchard, instead became their 3-acre learning
laboratory. Although 2 Towns’ orchard, plant-
ed in 2012, produces some fruit for its “Tradi-
tions” line of ciders, its most valuable fruit is
education, according to Dave Takush, orchard
manager and one of the three partners who
founded the cidery in 2010.
Takush and his partners planted the orchard
hoping to supply craft apples for their own ciders.
They quickly outgrew that idea.
Today, instead of counting on production
from their own orchard, 2 Towns’ owners have
contracted with local orchardists. Their own
orchard serves as a place to learn first-hand
about challenges to old world apples: the small
fruit, the biennial bearing, the new world re-
quirements of trees native to France, England
and other old world soils and climates.
Growing these transplanted varieties in the
Northwest is so new that there is little back-
ground on which to draw, outside recent experi-
ence. Oregon State University and Washington
State University have established test orchards,
but much of the knowledge is collecting in small
commercial ventures contracted to grow craft ap-
ples for cideries like 2 Towns. The French-style
“Cidre Bouche,” for example, uses old world bit-
tersweet cider varieties like Kingston Black, Mi-
ABOVE: 2 Towns Ciderhouse owners, from left, are Lee Larsen, Aaron Sarnoff-Wood and Dave
Takush. They expect to see their 7-year-old business produce 1 million gallons of cider this year.
Photo by Gail Oberst/For the Capital Press
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nins or dry flavors uncommon in apples native
or common in the new world, Takush said. Most
ciders are made with apples that grow well here:
jonagolds, pink ladies, Newtown pippins, golden
delicious and popular dessert apples. 2 Towns’
flagship “Bright Cider,” for example, is among
those made with local new world apples. It’s bal-
anced, not overly sweet, fruit-forward and easy
drinking, Takush said.
“It’s all sourced exclusively from the North-
west,” he said.
Currently, the Northwest is home to about a
quarter of the nation’s cider makers, according to
Nik Wiman and Aaron Heinrich, OSU orchards
specialists. Two years ago, OSU planted about 50
varieties of cider apples in its test orchard. Once
it starts producing, the university’s fermentation
science students will begin studying the tastes
and aromas particular to Oregon craft apples.
Washington State University’s test orchards span
200 acres over three sites, some of which is de-
voted to testing old world cider apples.
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The 2 Towns Ciderhouse has been a
head-rushing success for the Oregon State Uni-
versity and University of Oregon alums who
founded it: Takush, Lee Larsen and Aaron Sar-
noff-Wood. Their cidery produced just 18,000
gallons in its first full year. In 2018, it is expect-
ed to produce over 1 million gallons.
“It’s gone beyond our wildest dreams,”
Takush said of their ciders, now distributed in
eight western states. It will take about 12 mil-
lion pounds of apples to produce 2 Towns’ ci-
ders this year.
About a dozen varieties can be found on tap at
the Corvallis tasting room and cidery, or on store
shelves. Most of 2 Town’s ciders are not made
with old world varieties, apples with high tan-
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