TUESDAY, APRIL 27, 2021 THE OBSERVER & BAKER CITY HERALD — 3B HOME & LIVING Cookbook author turns attention to cakes over medium heat, combine the dates and 1 cup plus 2 tablespoons water. Cover pan and simmer for MINNEAPOLIS – “A cake can about 5 minutes to soften dates. Re- turn any Tuesday into an occasion,” move from heat and let sit, covered, writes Zoë François in the just- for another 5 minutes until dates are released “Zoë Bakes Cakes” (Ten tender; it may take up to an additional Speed Press, $30). “Cake is the way 5 minutes if dates are dried out. I tell my friends and family that I Transfer dates and water to a love them.” blender and purée until smooth. The tireless author became a Return the purée to the pan, return force in the cookbook world by the pan to medium heat and cook, co-writing the wildly successful stirring, until the purée begins to “Artisan Bread in Five Minutes a sizzle, about 1 minute. Remove pan Day” series with fellow Minnesotan from the heat and stir in the baking Jeff Hertzberg. soda and ginger; the mixture will With “Zoë Bakes Cakes,” François foam and darken. (The baking soda is turning to a different side of her neutralizes the acid in the dates and passion for baking, sharing dozens creates a rich dark color.) Let purée of cake recipes, from family favorites cool slightly. to re-creations of discoveries she’s In the bowl of an electric mixer encountered during her travels. But on medium-high speed, beat 6 before delivering the goods, François tablespoons butter until creamy and starts with a series of easy-to-absorb smooth, about 1 minute. Reduce tutorials — she calls it the Cake speed to medium, add 1 cup brown Academy — that are culled from sugar and vanilla extract and beat her vast pastry chef’s know-how. until the mixture is light in color and François has been busy. Along about double in volume, about 5 with producing “Zoë Bakes Cakes” minutes. Reduce speed to medium- Penguin Random House (after formulating the recipes in her low and add the eggs, one at a time, well-equipped Minneapolis kitchen, “Zoe Bakes Cakes” by Zoë François. beating until just combined and she also shot many of the book’s scraping the bowl after each addition. hunger-inducing photographs) and Add 2 tablespoons rum and mix until keeping her 300,000 Instagram I have it going until I can see the “People think of caramel as evenly incorporated. followers engaged (fi nd her @ whip attachment is making tracks In a medium bowl, whisk together purely sweet, but it can have this Makes 12 individual cakes. zoebakes), she’s also starring in a in it, what some people might call the fl our, baking powder and 1/2 tea- television series, “Zoë Bakes,” for the bitter edge to it that adds a nice medium peak. Then I fi nish it by spoon kosher salt. Note: “When my friend Steven new Magnolia Network (watch the dimension to a cake.” hand, for about 20 seconds. That’s With the mixer on low speed, add fi rst episode now on Discovery Plus). what makes perfect whipped cream. Brown asked me to design a dessert one-third of the fl our mixture to the but- — Author Zoë François In a recent phone conversation, Q: When baking cakes, you advo- program for his now-famous Tilia ter mixture, mixing until just combined. restaurant, he had two requests: François discussed the beauty of cate the spoon-and-sweep method Add half of the date purée and mix to There had to be a butterscotch pud- Minnesota-made Bundt pans, the I love dates, because they’re sweet for measuring fl our, where fl our is incorporate. Repeat with another one- ding and a sticky toffee-date cake,” power of Instagram and the joys of and rich, and they add this incred- spooned into the measuring cup, third fl our, the remaining date purée, cake stands. ible texture to a cake. Caramel is rather than scooping the measuring writes Zoë François in “Zoë Bakes and then fi nish with the fi nal one-third Cakes” (Ten Speed Press). “I bake Q: After eight bread books, why a one of those things for me, it shows cup directly into the fl our. Why? fl our, scraping the bowl after each addi- them in individual servings so they cake book? up a lot in the book. People think of A: Spoon-and-sweep is the King tion. Mix only enough to combine. can be tipped out and topped with a A: This book is really intimate to caramel as purely sweet, but it can Arthur fl our method, and it’s used Evenly scrape the batter into the pre- scoop of ice cream (I use rum raisin), me, because it’s all my stories, it’s all have this bitter edge to it that adds because then the fl our is more pared ramekins (or muffi n tins). Bake like a crown.” of the things that I love. My goal is a nice dimension to a cake. aerated. When I was traveling I until the cakes are golden and a tester to teach techniques, and to give just Q: The book is divided into styles saw that when people were baking comes out with moist crumbs, about For the cake enough food science to understand of cakes — layered, soaked, Bundt with King Arthur fl our and used 30 minutes. Don’t overbake; you want 12 oz. Medjool dates (about what went wrong. It’s about giving and more. Do you have a favorite the scoop-and-sweep method, they them to be slightly puddinglike, but the 12 to 14 large dates) people the confi dence to bake. I style? ended up with a drier cake. But this tester shouldn’t be wet. want the book to exude the love and A: I love anything that’s soaked. is the hardest thing that I had with 1 tsp. baking soda To prepare toffee sauce: While the the joy that I get out of this process. Pouring caramel, or juice, or simple the book. Everyone measures their 1 tsp. freshly grated ginger cakes are baking, in a small saucepan 6 tbsp. (3/4 stick) unsalted butter, Not that we didn’t do that with the syrup or some other fl avored some- fl our differently. I weigh every- over medium-high heat, combine the at room temperature, plus extra bread books, but this felt personal thing into a cake is a style that re- thing. I wish everyone measured by cream, 1 cup brown sugar, 2 table- for ramekins or muffi n tins to me. ally does it for me. It’s a style that’s weight, then we wouldn’t have to spoons rum, 2 tablespoons unsalted 1 c. (200 grams) lightly Q: How does a cake earn the Zoë popular everywhere else in the worry about these things. butter and 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt, and packed brown sugar François seal of approval? world but here. But I have to say Q: Are you saying that all bakers bring to a boil, stirring constantly. Re- 2 tsp. vanilla extract A: There are certain things with that my other true love is meringue- should buy a kitchen scale? duce heat to medium-low and simmer cakes that are true with savory based cakes. I love the texture of A: Yes. It’s so much easier to deal 2 eggs, at room temperature until thicker, about 5 minutes. Remove 2 tbsp. rum cooking. You want a balance of fl a- them. I love how light they are, es- with, and it’s way more consistent. from heat. 2 c. (240 grams) fl our vors, you want sweet and bitter, or pecially when you’re having dessert You get the same weight, every When the cakes come out of the 1 tbsp. baking powder sour. Sweets can be too sweet, that’s after a big meal. And working with time. oven, using a skewer, poke holes every the only note that doesn’t necessar- meringue is fun. You can cover a Q: Do you bake with Bundt pans 1/2 tsp. kosher salt 1/2 inch, through to the bottoms, and ily do it for me. That’s what I love cake with it and light it on fi re with out of obligation, because you’re a spoon two-thirds of the sauce over For the toffee sauce about coffee in devil’s food chocolate a blowtorch. Minnesotan? Or because you love the tops, dividing the sauce evenly 1/2 c. heavy whipping cream cake. The cake doesn’t taste like cof- Q: One of the book’s many helpful them? between cakes. If the sauce doesn’t get 1 c. (200 grams) lightly fee, but the bitterness of the coffee is pointers is your foolproof approach A: Bundt pans are such a gift to completely absorbed into the cake, packed brown sugar a balance to the sweet, and you need to whipped cream. Where did you a baker. They’re like a stand mixer, poke a few more holes. that to get a complete picture of the pick up that method? they do all the work for you. All you 2 tbsp. rum Let the cakes cool for 10 minutes, 2 tbsp. unsalted butter cake. For that reason, salt plays a A: It’s something I learned in culi- need is a dusting of confectioner’s then invert onto individual plates huge part in baking: It perks up all nary school, although not necessar- sugar, and you’re done. You’ve got a 1/2 tsp. kosher salt and spoon the remaining sauce over the fl avors. ily for whipped cream, maybe it was cake that’s worthy of a dinner party, Ice cream, for serving (see Note) the tops. Serve immediately with ice Q: The book includes the toffee- for génoise. People always overwhip and it’s all because of that pan. cream. If you don’t use all the cakes To prepare cake: Preheat oven to date cake that you created for Tilia, their cream, and it gets greasy or it Q: What role has Instagram at once, keep them in their ramekins 325 degrees. Generously butter 12 chef Steven Brown’s Linden Hills doesn’t fold into things beautifully. played in your work? (or muffi n tins), tightly covered, and restaurant. What’s the origin of that Whip it low, and slow. That creates A: It has changed everything. The (6-ounce) ramekins — or 12 muffi n refrigerate for up to 24 hours. Mi- tins — and set on a baking sheet. recipe? tiny air bubbles that don’t pop, and blog [zoebakes.com] is more about crowave for several seconds before Remove pits from the dates and A: It was really Steven’s idea, it you get a whipped cream that’s communicating out into the world. serving with remaining sauce. discard pits. In a medium saucepan wasn’t something in my normal rep. super-stable, and really luscious. It’s not so much a dialogue, it’s not so much about people sharing with us and us sharing with them. Then I discovered Instagram Stories. With baking, people are super- intimidated, they need to see tricks and tips visually. I started making videos, and it was instant feedback. When COVID hit, I started doing Instagram Live, and that’s how people found me, and we became a community. It opened up a lot of op- portunities for me. I’ve met a lot of people and established friendships because of it, and it has had a pro- found effect on me and on my career. It’s my portfolio. Some people have résumés, I have Instagram Live. Q: How many cake stands are in your collection? A: There can never be enough. Marie Dwyer of Cooks of Crocus Hill had gone to Martha Stewart’s studio, and she sent me a picture of the prop room. Martha must have 500 cake stands. Not that you don’t envy everything that woman has, but my god, that’s a life goal. Let’s just say I have more than most, but less than Martha, and we’ll leave it at that. Rick Nelson Star Tribune STICKY TOFFEE-DATE CAKE SALAD Continued from Page 1B Eggs — hard boiled, poached or fried — can all be added to a salad for a quick, nutritious meal. Keeping hard-boiled eggs on hand in the refrigerator saves time, too. Eggs are a good source of protein and contain iron, vitamin E and are a source of choline, which is important for a healthy nervous system and metabolism. Eggs are nutrient dense and relatively low in calories (only about 77 calories per egg). Frying eggs adds calories due to the added oil used for frying. Cheeses, from cheddar to Swiss, blue to Mozzarella, although high in fat, also contains calcium which is a nutrient used to build strong bones and teeth. Cheese is also a source of protein, Vitamin A and B-12, and nutrients zinc, ribofl avin and phosphorus. Some cheeses can even be made at home. Cheese is also high in sodium, and some people cannot tolerate the lactose found in cheese (a dairy product). These people have a condition called lactose intolerance. When they consume dairy products they experience gastric distress VISIT BAKER’S MOST INTERESTING STORE Store is open 24 hours 7 am to 7 pm Take Out Only and abdominal discomfort. 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