TUESDAY, APRIL 13, 2021
THE OBSERVER & BAKER CITY HERALD — 3B
HOME & LIVING
Curry confusion: delving into Indian cuisine
Arthi Subramaniam
Pittsburgh Post-Gazette
Curry has become a catchall word
for any Indian meat, vegetable or
legume dish in a sauce. But that’s a
distortion. In fact, it’s plain wrong.
It is not a monolithic dish. Nor does
it fall in the predefi ned or standard
category. It can be saucy or bone-dry.
It can be sassy and fi ery hot or heady
with cardamom and cinnamon or
mild when seasoned with only salt
and pepper.
All that comes through clearly in
“Vegetarian Flavors With Alamelu”
(Hippocrene Books; November 2020)
by Alamelu Vairavan.
“Curry is a generic term used in
the context of Indian dishes,” the
cookbook author and PBS TV host
says. “But not all Indian dishes
should be labeled as curries.”
To me, a curry always has a
specifi c context and doubles down on
fl avor.
So when someone makes a blanket
statement of either loving or hating
curry, it leaves me befuddled as to
which curry the person is referring
to. Is it the creamy Mughlai-style
chicken with almonds and raisins,
or is it the dry pepper chicken fry? Is
it the tomato sauce-based egg curry
or the drier egg curry with green bell
peppers and garam masala?’The
word curry, whose roots can be traced
to Southern India, has traveled far
and wide, turning up in Thailand,
Malaysia, Myanmar, Kenya, South
Africa and the Caribbean. During the
colonization of India, the British ap-
propriated curry from the Tamil word
kari, which means a dry vegetable
dish or meat in a sauce fl avored with
spices. It also could have been a refer-
ence to the curry leaf, which comes
from the murraya koenigii plant and
is used as a fl avor enhancer.
But that seems to have gotten lost
in translation.
In some instances, even when
meat, vegetable and legume dishes
have been given names they are
designated as curries simply be-
cause of their origin. So names like
chana masala (chickpeas with spices),
keema (spiced ground meat) and
sodhi (vegetables cooked in coconut
milk with spices and chilies) simply
fall by the wayside.
Vairavan showcases why specifi c
names matter when a cuisine offers a
wide variety of choices like kootu, ko-
NARCISSUS
Continued from Page 1B
6. Cyclamineus hybrids:
Early medium-sized fl owers
with recurved segments (seg-
ments refl exes backward like
cyclamen). February Gold,
Andrew Rush/Pittsburgh Post-Gazette-TNS
Cabbage and carrots are combined with cooked masoor dal (red
lentils) in this wholesome kootu, which is redolent with ginger.
rma and poriyal in this, her seventh
cookbook.
The lentil-based sauce is what
defi nes the homey kootu. Masoor dal
(red lentils) or moong dal (split yellow
lentils) are cooked and then combined
with vegetables like cabbage, cauli-
fl ower and green beans.
Perfumed with cinnamon, fennel
seeds, garlic and ginger, a lot more
ingredients go into kormas. The au-
thor calls for almonds or cashews to
be blended with unsweetened coconut
and added to vegetables like potatoes
and mushrooms.
Poriyal is basically any stir-fried
vegetable cooked with a small
amount of oil. Her kale, cabbage and
sweet potato poriyals all are tossed
with unsweetened shredded coconut
just before the heat is turned off.
Vairavan was born in Chettinad, a
region in Southern India known for
its piquant cuisine. When she moved
to Milwaukee after getting mar-
ried, she didn’t know a thing about
cooking. So she went to stay with her
aunt and uncle in New York to learn
the basics like cutting vegetables and
cooking rice from their cook, Natesan,
who also hailed from Chettinad.
One of his key instructions was
about seasoning dishes with mustard
seeds and urad dal. The oil had to
be hot but not smoking hot before
they were added. And it is a line she
repeats throughout the book.
Her recipes are easy to follow and
short, and she did it to erase another
distortion.
“Indian cooking is not all laborious
or diffi cult,” she says.
February Silver, and Peeping
Tom are examples.
7. Jonquils Hybrids: clus-
ters of 2-4 rather small, very
fragrant fl owers. Leaves are
round and reed-like.
8. Tazetta and tazetta
hybrids: these are bunch-
POTATO AND PEAS
KORMA
Cooked in an almond-coconut
sauce with cumin and fennel seeds,
the potatoes and peas don’t require
much time to embrace the wonderful
fragrance. Serve with fl atbreads like
roti or naan.
16 whole almonds, soaked in
hot water for 10 minutes
1/2 cup unsweetened
shredded coconut
2 fresh green chili peppers
2 teaspoons cumin seeds, divided
1 teaspoon fennel seeds, divided
2 thick slices fresh ginger
1 tablespoon oil
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
2 to 4 curry leaves, optional
1 bay leaf
2 to 4 (1/2 -inch-long) slivers
cinnamon sticks
1 cup coarsely chopped onions
2 cups chopped tomatoes, divided
2 cups peeled and cubed Idaho
potatoes (about 1-inch cubes)
1/2 teaspoon ground turmeric
1 teaspoon curry powder
1 1/2 teaspoons salt
1 cup frozen peas, thawed
1/4 cup chopped fresh cilantro leaves
Add oil and butter into a wide-bot-
tomed saucepan over medium heat.
When the oil is hot and butter melted,
add curry leaves, bay leaf, cinnamon
sticks, remaining 1 teaspoon of cumin
seeds and remaining 1/2 teaspoon
of fennel seeds. Stir-fry for a few
minutes, until it is fragrant and seeds
brown..
Add onions and 1 cup of tomatoes,
and stir-fry for a few minutes.
Add potatoes and turmeric, and stir
well for 1 minute. Add curry powder
and stir well with the potatoes for a
couple of minutes.
Add the coconut spice paste along
with salt and 2 cups of warm water
and mix thoroughly.
When the mixture begins to boil,
add the remaining 1 cup of chopped
tomatoes and peas. Cook over
medium heat until the potatoes are
tender.
Garnish with cilantro.
Serves 4.
CABBAGE AND CARROT
KOOTU
It’s best to keep all the vegetables
cut and ready to go before you
begin cooking because things come
together quickly once the mustard
seeds pop and white lentils turn
golden. Keep an eye on the whole
red chili as it can blacken rather
quickly. The kootu goes well with
cooked plain rice.
3/4 cup masoor dal (red lentils) or
moong dal (split yellow lentils)
1/2 teaspoon ground
turmeric, divided
2 tablespoons oil
1/2 teaspoon black mustard seeds
1/2 teaspoon urad dal
1 whole dried red chili
2 or 3 curry leaves, optional
1/2 cup chopped onions
1 medium green chili pepper, minced
1 tablespoon minced fresh ginger
2 cups coarsely shredded cabbage
1 cup diced carrots
1 teaspoon ground cumin
1 1/4 teaspoons salt
In a cup, soak whole almonds in hot
Bring 3 cups of water to a boil in a
water for 10 minutes. Remove their
deep saucepan. Add masoor dal and
skin.
1/4 teaspoon turmeric.
In a blender, add coconut, green
Reduce heat to medium and cook
chilies, almonds, 1 teaspoon cumin
dal, uncovered, until it becomes soft
seeds, 1/2 teaspoon fennel seeds,
and tender, about 20 minutes. (If
ginger and 2 cups of hot water. Grind most of the water evaporates before
into a smooth paste.
the dal becomes soft, add an addi-
fl owered daffodils with small-
cupped white and yellow
fl owers in clusters. Erlicheer,
cheerfulness, yellow cheerful-
ness, poetaz narcissus, paper
whites and Chinese sacred
lilies.
9. Poetics narcissus: white
LOBSTER
done. Or, you prep it like
me you have a meat ther-
for baking, with the meat
mometer — the temperature
Continued from Page 1B
displayed on top, then grill it, should be between 135 and
Unless you have limitless covered, over indirect heat.
140 degrees F. If it’s less than
funds for experimentation,
Trust, me, though: if you’re
that, keep cooking. If it’s way
I’d go with baking over broil- new to this, baking will be
more than that, lower your
ing for those just starting
the easiest route with the
head, shut your eyes and
out.
strongest chance of success. curse under your breath,
The variables involved in
And, speaking of success,
then promise yourself that
broiling — oven heat, fl ame let’s talk about how we know next time you’ll keep a better
strength, rack height —
when the lobster tail is done. eye on the time.
make it much more challeng- Regardless of your method,
Irrespective of perfec-
ing and therefore much more the shell should be bright
tion, serve your lobster tails
reliant on luck your fi rst
red and the meat should
immediately with loads of
couple of times out. I’m not
be opaque and milky white
melted butter and lots of
saying you shouldn’t broil
inside. If you’ve got a meat
fresh sides. You’ll be happy no
lobster tails; I’m just say-
thermometer — please tell
matter what.
ing that every time you do,
remember what worked and
what didn’t so that next time
you can make adjustments
in the time, the temperature,
the rack height, etc.
Store is open 24 hours
The same is true with
grilling — lots of variables.
Take Out Only
You can grill it meat-side
down (butterfl ied but still
Take out and Catering is Available.
in shell) to get a little color,
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ASPARAGUS WITH
SHALLOTS AND GARLIC
Substitutions are the secret here.
Don’t fret if you don’t have black
mustard seeds and urad dal. They
can be replaced with cumin seeds.
Instead of chutney powder, you can
use 1/2 teaspoon of ground cumin.
And unsweetened shredded coco-
nut can stand in for grated fresh
coconut.
1 tablespoon oil
1/2 teaspoon black mustard seeds
1/2 teaspoon urad dal
2 shallots, peeled and sliced
2 garlic cloves, minced
1 pound asparagus, trimmed
and diced (about 2 cups)
1/2 teaspoon chutney powder
3/4 teaspoon salt
1/2 tablespoon grated fresh coconut
Heat oil in a skillet over medium
heat. When the oil is hot but not
smoking, add mustard seeds and
urad dal.
Don’t stir until mustard seeds pop
and urad dal turns golden.
Add chopped shallots and garlic.
Stir and cook for 2 minutes. Add
asparagus and stir, and cook for 4
minutes.
Add chutney powder, salt and coco-
nut. Reduce heat to medium-low and
stir for 5 more minutes.
Serves 4.
Palmares, orangery and
many others.
11. Species varieties and
hybrids: these are original
daffodils as they grow in
the wild. Very good for rock
gardens as they are usually
miniatures.
LOBSTER ROLLS
1 tablespoon lemon juice
1/2 pound cooked lobster
meat, cut roughly into
1/2-inch chunks
Salt as needed
2 tablespoons butter
2 hot dog buns
1/3 cup shredded lettuce
Celery salt, for garnish
(optional)
Chives, minced, for
garnish (optional)
Traditionally, lobster rolls
are served on fl at-sided “split
top” buns. As these are not
ubiquitous, any good quality,
fresh hot dog bun will do. And
speaking of hot dog buns, the
celery salt garnish is a nod to
the Chicago-style hot-dog.
Prep time: 15 minutes
Cooking time: 2 minutes
Makes 2 servings
2 tablespoons mayonnaise
1 tablespoon diced celery
1 tablespoon diced onion
Let Your
12. There are other variet-
ies lumped into a miscella-
neous category.
If you have garden ques-
tions or comments, please
write to greengardencolumn@
yahoo.com. Thanks for read-
ing!
Step 2: Fold in lobster meat
and a pinch of salt. Taste and
adjust for seasoning.
Step 3: Melt 2 tablespoons
butter in a medium sauté pan
until it starts to foam. As foam
subsides, open each hot dog
bun wide and place them
split-side down into hot butter.
Toast until golden brown, about
1 minute, then remove to indi-
vidual plates.
Step 4: Divide the 1/3 cup
Step 1: In a mixing bowl,
shredded lettuce evenly
combine 2 tablespoons mayon- between buns, then top with
naise, 1 tablespoon diced cel-
lobster mixture. Garnish with
ery, 1 tablespoon diced onion
optional celery salt and chives
and 1 tablespoon lemon juice. and serve immediately.
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Cover and cook until mustard
seeds pop and urad dal is golden
brown. Immediately add the whole
chili and curry leaves,
Add onions, minced green chili and
ginger. Stir well. Add cabbage and
carrots, and stir-fry about 2 minutes.
Add remaining 1/4 teaspoon
turmeric, ground cumin and salt; stir
well.
Immediately add cooked dal and
about 1 cup of water. Cover and
cook over medium heat for 7 to 10
minutes, stirring frequently, until the
cabbage and carrots are cooked and
tender. Taste and add more salt if
desired.
Serves 4.
fl owers with shallow, broad
yellow cups edged in red.
Actaea is an example.
10. Split-cup hybrids or
butterfl y daffodils: the cup is
split into many segments and
can remain upright or lies fl at
against the petal segments.
Your feet were made for Walking
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tional cup.) Set aside.
Heat oil in a saucepan over me-
dium heat. When oil is hot but not
smoking, add the mustard seeds and
urad dal.
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