TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 29, 2020
DECADENT
Continued from Page 1B
Nothing goes better with
chocolate than raspberries,
and nothing goes better with
raspberries than chocolate.
This tart has an abun-
dance of fresh raspberries
packed into a chocolate tart
crust, which is then fi lled
with a smooth and creamy
chocolate ganache. The fi lling
melts in your mouth as you
eat it, and you get pleasing
pops of bright fl avor from
each raspberry as you eat it.
The genius of the dish is
the crust, which is fl avored
with cocoa powder and less
powdered sugar than you’d
think. In this way, the crust
is a little bittersweet, which
serves as a counterpoint to
the rich fi lling.
It’s the sort of tart con-
sumed nightly by the gods on
Mount Olympus, who threw
down their chalices of nectar
in dismay after they fi rst
tasted it.
Even so, my favorite of the
desserts is the cheesecake. It
is our go-to cheesecake, the
cheesecake we make whenev-
er we make cheesecake. The
recipe originally came from
a restaurant in Bar Harbor,
Maine, called the Blue Hill
Buffet. Our cookbook with
the recipe in it dates back to
1964, which proves that great
food never goes out of style.
It is a simple but pure
recipe, and so it particularly
benefi ts from using the best
ingredients. The crust should
be made with name-brand
vanilla wafers, the cream
cheese should be of a good
quality and you should whip
the cream yourself. Most
important, the lemon extract
should be fresh and prefer-
ably just purchased; the
freshness makes a remark-
ably large difference.
It is the ideal cheesecake,
rich and thick and creamy.
All other cheesecakes are but
imperfect refl ections of it.
The fourth dessert that is
absolutely worth the calories
is an old-fashioned pearl tapi-
oca pudding.
I know. A lot of people are a
little repulsed by the thought
of tapioca. They are afraid of
the texture. But that’s just
because they haven’t had this
tapioca.
This tapioca is made with
a thin custard called a creme
anglaise. If you froze it, you
would get ice cream. If you
sprinkled sugar on the top of
it and torched it, you would
get a creme brulee.
Basically, this is creme
brulee with soft, chewy tapi-
oca pearls — which are the
same thing you use to make
bubble tea.
It’s fun to eat and, when
you sprinkle just a touch
of cinnamon on top, it is
insanely delicious.
Of the four desserts that
are worth the calories, it is
my favorite.
LEMON
MASCARPONE
LAYER CAKE
Yield: 10 to 12 servings
For the sponge cakes
6 large eggs, separated
7 tablespoons (1/2 cup
minus 1 tablespoon)
granulated sugar plus
7 tablespoons (1/2 cup
minus 1 tablespoon)
granulated sugar
1 3/4 cups sifted cake fl our
For the lemon syrup
1/2 cup granulated sugar
1/2 cup water
1/4 cup freshly squeezed
lemon juice
HOME & LIVING
16 tablespoons (2 sticks)
unsalted butter, cubed, plus
more for greasing, divided
3 egg yolks
3 teaspoons vanilla
extract, divided
8 ounces semisweet
chocolate, coarsely chopped
1 cup light cream or
half-and-half
4 cups raspberries
(about 1 pound)
from oven and raise oven
temperature to 375 degrees.
3. Place cream cheese in the
bowl of a stand mixer or large
bowl. In a bowl, mix together
the sugar and cornstarch,
and add to the cream cheese.
Add the eggs and the lemon
extract. Mix with stand mixer
or hand-held mixer until thor-
oughly combined.
4. In a separate bowl, whip
the cream until it reaches stiff
peaks. Gently fold into the
1. Sift together the fl our,
cocoa powder and powdered cream cheese mixture just
until combined. Pour into the
sugar into a large bowl. Add
prepared pan. Sprinkle a few
10 tablespoons (1 1/4 sticks)
cookie crumbs on top and
of the butter and rub in us-
bake until fi rm in the middle
ing your fi ngertips until the
mixture resembles fi ne bread and a sharp knife inserted in
crumbs. Add the egg yolks and the center comes out clean,
about 60 minutes.
Hillary Levin/St. Louis Post-Dispatch/TNS gently mix together, then add
Raspberry and chocolate tart.
1 teaspoon of the vanilla and
combine to form a smooth
Per serving: 551 calories; 46 g
dough. Cover with plastic
fat; 27 g saturated fat; 157 mg
recipe) or 2 1/2 cups
fi lling to a medium bowl to
wrap and let rest in the refrig- cholesterol; 398 g protein; 29
purchased lemon curd
use for piping decorations.
erator for at least 30 minutes. g carbohydrate; 17 g sugar; no
Yield: 2 1/2 cups
For the mascarpone fi lling
Transfer half of the remain-
2. Preheat the oven to 375
fi ber; 398 mg sodium; 90 mg
2 1/2 cups heavy
ing fi lling to another medium
degrees. Lightly grease a 9 1/2- calcium
whipping cream
bowl. Refrigerate all 3 bowls of 3 large eggs
inch diameter tart pan.
7 tablespoons (1/2 cup
mascarpone mixture. You may 3 large egg yolks
3. Roll out the dough on
— Adapted from “Picasso &
minus 1 tablespoon)
want to label the 3 bowls: one 1 cup minus 1 tablespoon
a lightly fl oured surface and
Pie” by Lynne Thompson
granulated sugar
for piping, one for fi lling layers
granulated sugar
carefully use to line the pan.
1 pound mascarpone
and one for frosting.
3/4 cup strained freshly
Cover with parchment paper,
8. Unmold the cakes: Run a
squeezed lemon juice
fi ll the pastry shell with pie
thin, fl exible knife or spatula
6 tablespoons (3/4 stick)
Note: All the parts of this
weights or dried beans, and
cold unsalted butter, cut
cake can be made in advance. around the edge of a pan to
bake for 15 minutes. Remove
loosen a cake. Turn the pan up-
into 1/2-inch pieces
the paper and weights and
Yield: 6 servings
side down and give it a sharp
1. Preheat the oven to 375
return crust to the oven for 5
rap on the table if necessary
1. Fill a large bowl halfway
degrees and position oven
more minutes. Let cool.
to release (don’t worry, these
with ice and water and set
racks in the lower and upper
4. Melt the chocolate in a
4 ounces tapioca pearls,
cakes are very sturdy). Turn the aside. Fill the bottom of a
thirds. Fit 2 cake pans with
heatproof bowl set over a
preferably large
cake right-side up, leaving the double boiler with 2 inches of saucepan of barely simmering 1 fresh vanilla bean, see note
parchment rounds. Do not
parchment paper attached. Re- water and bring to a roiling
grease the pans.
water, making sure the surface 2 cups milk, plus
more if needed
2. Make the cakes: Whip the peat with the remaining cake. boil. Check to see the water is of the water does not touch
Level the cakes, if necessary,
at least 2 inches below the top the bowl. Meanwhile, put the 2 cups heavy (whipping)
egg yolks and 7 tablespoons
by cutting a thin slice off the
portion of the double boiler.
cream, plus more if needed
of the sugar in the bowl of a
cream into a small saucepan
top if it is mounded and not
2. Place the eggs, egg yolks and heat until steaming hot,
1/2 cup granulated sugar
stand mixer on high speed
even. Use a serrated knife to
and sugar into the top of the
Pinch salt
until thick and very light in
but do not let it boil. Remove
cut each cake horizontally into double boiler (off the heat)
2 egg yolks
color, 4 to 5 minutes. You can
the melted chocolate from
two layers. Set aside one of
and whisk until blended. Add
Cinnamon for serving
also use a hand mixer and a
the heat and slowly pour in
the bottom layers to use last,
the lemon juice and mix well. the cream, gently stirring the
medium bowl, although you
Reduce the heat until the
may need to beat the mixture and remove the parchment
mixture. Add the remaining 2
Note: A fresh vanilla bean
from the other layer.
water is at a gentle boil. Place teaspoons of vanilla, then the is preferred for this recipe. If
a little longer to achieve the
9. Assemble the cake. Place the egg mixture over the water remaining 6 tablespoons (3/4
same results. Transfer to a
using vanilla extract, use 1
a
cake
layer, cut side up, on
and cook, whisking constantly stick) butter, and stir together. tablespoon and add during
large bowl and set aside while
the serving plate. Brush the
but leisurely, and scraping the
you whip the egg whites.
5. Pack the cooled pastry
step 2.
cake with 1/4 of the lemon
edges frequently so the eggs
3. Thoroughly clean the
shell with raspberries, saving
syrup. Spread 1/3 of the mas- don’t scramble there, until
mixer bowl and whisk at-
a few for decoration. Pour the
1. Soak the tapioca pearls
carpone fi lling on top. Place
the curd is very thick, about
tachment or beaters. Whip
hot chocolate ganache over
in water overnight, covered
3 level tablespoons of the
7 minutes. A fi nished curd
the egg whites on medium
the raspberries to fi ll to the
well with water. The next day,
remaining lemon curd on top should hold its shape; when
speed to soft peaks. With the
top of the pastry. Let set in the drain off the water. Slice the
mixer running, gradually add of the fi lling and spread evenly the whisk is lifted and a bit of
refrigerator at least 30 min-
vanilla bean in half lengthwise,
curd falls back into the bowl, it utes. Serve decorated with the scrape out the tiny seeds and
7 more tablespoons of sugar; to the edge. Place a second
continue beating until the egg cake layer on top, cut side up, should remain distinct on the reserved raspberries dusted
add them and the bean pods
and repeat with lemon syrup, surface rather than blending
whites hold fi rm peaks. Fold
with a little powdered sugar.
to a heavy-bottomed pot with
mascarpone fi lling and lemon back into the mixture. Do not
1/3 of the egg whites into the
the milk, cream and tapioca.
curd. Place third layer on top, let the curd boil. If you get bits Per serving: 714 calories; 46 g Bring to a very slow simmer,
beaten yolks with a spatula,
cut side up, and repeat.
of scrambled egg, immedi-
then sift half of the fl our over
fat; 28 g saturated fat; 176 mg stirring often to avoid scorch-
10. Top with the last cake
ately remove the bowl from
the top and gently fold it in.
cholesterol; 11 g protein; 74 g
ing. If the mixture becomes
layer, placing it bottom side up the heat and proceed to the
Repeat. Fold in the last of the
carbohydrate; 34 g sugar; 12
too thick and, um, like mucus,
next step.
egg whites until no streaks of (cut side down). Remove the
g fi ber; 51 mg sodium; 93 mg add more milk and cream as
parchment paper; the surface
3. Immediately strain the
white remain.
calcium
needed.
will be crumb-free for frosting. curd through a fi ne-mesh
4. Divide the batter evenly
2. Stir in the sugar, salt and
Moisten it with the remain-
strainer into a medium bowl.
between the prepared pans.
— Recipe from “Chocolat” by vanilla extract if using. Put the
ing lemon syrup. Spread the
Push the curd though the
Bake for 18 to 22 minutes,
Eric Lanlard yolks into a bowl and stir in
until the tops are golden, fi rm mascarpone reserved for frost- strainer with a spatula or
some of the tapioca mixture
to the touch and a toothpick in- ing over the cake, spreading it spoon, leaving behind any
a very little bit at a time to
serted into the centers comes quite thinly on top with more bits of scrambled egg. Add the
equalize the temperature while
on the side.
cold butter pieces to the curd,
out clean. Halfway through
not scrambling the eggs. (If
11. Finish and serve the
burying them so they melt
the baking time, switch the
the eggs do scramble, discard
quickly. Wait 1 minute, then
pans on the racks so they bake cake: Spoon the piping
and begin again with new
Yield: 8 to 10 servings
evenly. Transfer the cakes to a mascarpone into a pastry bag whisk until the butter is com-
yolks). Add the warmed yolk
fi tted with a 1/2-inch star tip (or pletely melted and blended
rack to cool completely.
mixture to the tapioca mixture
a gallon-size plastic bag with a with the curd. Press a piece
5. Make the lemon syrup:
8 ounces vanilla wafers
while stirring. Pour into a bowl
small hole in one corner, fi tted of plastic wrap directly on the
Heat 1/2 cup of sugar and
(about 56), fi nely ground
to cool before placing a piece
with a 1/2-inch star tip). Pipe
surface of the curd, then set
water in a small saucepan,
1/4 pound (1 stick) salted
of plastic wrap directly on
the bowl in the large bowl of
stirring occasionally, until the rosettes over the entire top
butter, melted
the surface and placing in the
of the cake, starting around
ice and water. Once the curd
sugar has completely dis-
1 1/2 pounds good
refrigerator.
the outside edge and work-
has completely cooled, use or
solved and the liquid is clear.
cream cheese
3. Serve with a little dash of
ing your way to the center.
store for up to 3 days in the
Remove from the heat and
1 cup granulated sugar
ground cinnamon
Put a few tablespoons of the
refrigerator.
cool completely. Stir in the
2 tablespoons cornstarch
remaining curd into a plastic
lemon juice.
2 eggs
Per serving: 316 calories; 16 g
sandwich bag and squeeze
Per (1 tablespoon) serving: 44 3/4 teaspoons lemon
6. Make the mascarpone
fat; 10 g saturated fat; 108 mg
it into one of the corners.
calories; 3 g fat; 1 g saturated
fi lling: Thoroughly clean the
extract, see note
cholesterol; 5 g protein; 39 g
Snip off the corner and pipe a fat; 32 mg cholesterol; 1 g
mixer bowl and whisk or
1 cup whipping cream
carbohydrate; 23 g sugar; no
center of lemon curd into each protein; 5 g carbohydrate; 5 g
beaters. Place the cream and
fi ber; 74 mg sodium; 137 mg
of the rosettes. Refrigerate for sugar; no fi ber; 6 mg sodium;
the remaining 7 tablespoons
Note: The lemon extract
calcium
of sugar in the bowl and whip at least 4 hours before serving, 5 mg calcium
must be recently purchased.
so the fl avors and textures
until soft peaks form. Place
It loses its fl avor within a few — Adapted from a recipe from
have a chance to meld. To
the mascarpone and 1 cup
— Recipe from “The Art & months of opening.
“The Frog and the Redneck”
serve, slice with a thin, sharp
of the lemon curd in a large
Soul of Baking” by Cindy
by Jimmy Sneed
bowl and stir until blended — knife. The cake will keep, re-
Mushet
1. Preheat oven to 350
frigerated, for 3 to 4 days.
it should be the consistency
degrees.
of pudding. Gently fold in
2. Stir together vanilla
the whipped cream until the
Per serving (based on 12): 590
wafers and melted butter and
mixture is homogeneous and calories; 32 g fat; 19 g saturat-
press into springform pan or
Yield: 6 servings
thick. If the mixture becomes
ed fat; 267 mg cholesterol; 10
large pie plate. Bake 10 min-
For All your
overworked it will look grainy g protein; 66 g carbohydrate;
utes; do not brown. Remove
or separated. If this happens,
49 g sugar; 1 g fi ber; 182 mg
1 1/3 cups all-purpose fl our,
Meat processing
stir in several tablespoons of
sodium; 5 mg calcium
plus more for dusting
needs
cream and stir just until the
2/3 cup unsweetened
We will be OPENING
Schedule Early!
mixture has smoothed out
— Recipe from “The Art &
cocoa powder
on October 2nd!
Bring in your Grindings.
Where: Corner of Booth Lane and
again.
Soul of Baking” by Cindy 1/3 cup powdered sugar,
Lower Cove Road
We will make it into
7. Transfer 2 1/4 cups of
Mushet
plus more for dusting
When: Friday and Saturday:
Sausage, Jerky & Burger!
9am-6pm
Sunday: 10am-4pm
Jay & Kristin Wilson, Owners
Please call soon.
Monday-Thursday: By appointment
LEMON CURD
OLD-FASHIONED
PEARL TAPIOCA
PUDDING
BLUE HILL
BUFFET’S
CHEESECAKE
RASPBERRY AND
CHOCOLATE TART
PICK’N PATCH
For the lemon curd
1 recipe lemon curd (see
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