2 — THE OBSERVER & BAKER CITY HERALD
WEDNESDAY, JANUARY 15, 2020
NORTHEAST OREGON EXTRA
Yummy truffl es for chocolate lovers on this planet
By James P. DeWan
Chicago Tribune
Don’t get me wrong: I
am not — repeat: NOT —
saying that if you don’t like
chocolate, there’s some-
thing wrong with you, that
maybe you are not from
this planet (Earth). Perish
the thought.
On another topic, quick
question: Is it possible
there are actual aliens
from another world living
among us disguised as
humans? I think that’s a
reasonable proposition. Re-
member the scene in that
Abbott and Costello movie
where the gorilla is trying
to wake up Lou Costello
E, Jason Wambsgans/Chicago Tribune-TNS
and you’re thinking, “Wait,
is that a real gorilla, or just Roll the truffl es in the coating of your choice, maybe cocoa powder, granulated sugar, sprinkles or nuts.
a guy in a gorilla suit?”
Hard to say. Maybe if you
ounce of booze or a teaspoon of extract per cup a cake pan or casserole, something in which
E, Jason
offered him a banana you
it can cool quickly.
Place Wambsgans/Chicago
it in the fridge Tribune-TNS
for an
of cream.
Roll the truffl es in the
coating
of
your
choice,
maybe
cocoa
powder,
granulated
sugar,
or nuts.
could tell: guy or gorilla?
hour or two to fi rm up, then sprinkles
use your melon
To make ganache, bring your cream to a
Like offering someone a
simmer in a small saucepan. While it heats, baller to scoop out individual portions and set
chocolate truffl e: human or
them on a parchment-covered baking sheet.
turn your chocolate bar into little shards:
alien?
in Using
an abattoir.
as a also
lunar
because
water
can as
You dry
could
use plain,
a plain
old spoon,
seeing
a serrated knife, such as a bread knife, it’s
Speaking of truffl es ...
Because
of
the
truffl
e’s
paucity
of
ingredi-
make
melting
chocolate
seize
up
like
an
oil-
how a later stage involves hand-rolling each
shave off thin slices and the chocolate will
Why you need to learn this
ents,
my
advice
is
to
start
with
a
bar
of
high
starved
V6.
Put
your
chocolate
into
the
bowl
crumble into bits like a desiccated mummy — truffl e anyway.
O, the weather outside is frightful. Cruel
quality
dark
chocolate,
something
60% and
in the scrape
hot cream,
letting it
sit a for
Or dump
you could
the ganache
into
pip-
just what
you
want. When
you’ve in
got the
enough,
death lurks ’round every corner. And you’re
to give
70% the
cacao
range.
several
seconds
to
start
the
chocolate
ing bag and pipe out little brown blobs melting.
onto a
chocolatey pile a few more chops to
not getting any younger. Have a truffl e, for
As for the
the size
cream,
the pieces
thing even
you want
to pay
To combine the cream
and sheet.
chocolate, don’t
baking
reduce
of the
further.
Do parchment-covered
God’s sake. You’ll feel better.
attention
to
is
ratios.
Ganache
comes
in
differ-
use
a
whisk;
use
a
rubber
spatula.
Stir the
in
When you’re done, pop the pan into
this part with a chef’s knife, as you can rock
If you’re not an alien, that is.
ent
thicknesses,
like
lenses
at
the
optometrist.
small
circles
from
the
inside
out,
working
to
its curved blade over the chocolate like you’re fridge until your blobs are fi rm and ready the
For
truffl es,
you want a fairly stiff ganache,
chocolate
into the cream to form a smooth and
roll.
mincing
garlic.
The steps you take
roughly
2 to 1 a ratio
chocolate
to Make
cream. sure
If silky
This wondering
is ganache. how big
Oh, pond
and of
in delight.
case you’re
Next, a grab
metal of mixing
bowl.
Truffl es are made from that wonderful
you’re
fl
avoring
your
truffl
es,
fi
gure
about
an
Here’s
a
thing:
It’s
possible
the truffl
diminish-
to make your truffl es, well, most
es are
it’s dry as a lunar plain, because water can
brown goo the kids like to call “ganache.”
ounce
of
booze
or
a
teaspoon
of
extract
per
cup
ing
heat
from
your
cooling
cream
not be
in the half-ounce to 1-ounce range. will
I suggest
make melting chocolate seize up like an oil-
Rhymes with “panache.” Ganache is chocolate starved
of cream.
enough
to scooping)
complete the
cation
piping (or
out meltifi
a couple
blobs process.
of
V6. Put your chocolate into the bowl
melted with heavy cream. If that sounds rich and To dump
make in ganache,
bring
your
cream
to
a
If
that
happens,
make
a
bain
marie:
different sizes, then using whichever Bring
one you
the hot cream, letting it sit for
and delicious, no need to show me your Earth several
simmer seconds
in a small
saucepan.
While it melting.
heats,
about
of water to a boil in a saucepan,
prefer 2 as inches
your guide.
to start
the chocolate
I.D. card. You’ve probably eaten ganache in a turn
your
chocolate
bar
into
little
shards:
then
reduce
the
to low.
bowl
Whether your heat
ganache
is Place
piped your
or scooped,
To combine the cream and chocolate, don’t
thousand cakes.
Using
a
serrated
knife,
such
as
a
bread
knife,
of
creamy
choco-lumps
on
top,
taking
care
now comes the rolling. Working quickly, not
use a whisk; use a rubber spatula. Stir in
Or a billion truffl es, because truffl es are
shave
off
thin
slices
and
the
chocolate
will
to
get a any
water
into the
(Should
this
blob
between
your bowl.
palms
and roll
it
small circles from the inside out, working the place
simply small balls of ganache. Sometimes
crumble
into
bits
like
a
desiccated
mummy
—
happen
and
your
chocolate
seizes,
mix
in
a
chocolate into the cream to form a smooth and into a spheroid shape. And listen: Be ye not
they’re enhanced with bold fl avors like
just what
want. When
got enough, little
boiling with
water
and it should
turn liquid
concerned
perfection.
Imperfection
is a
silky
pond you
of delight.
This is you’ve
ganache.
espresso or booze, and usually they’re coated
give
the
chocolatey
pile
a
few
more
chops
to
again.)
Continue
stirring
over
the
steam with
until
hallmark of artisanship, and proclaims
Here’s a thing: It’s possible the diminish-
with something like crushed nuts or those
reduce
the
size
of
the
pieces
even
further.
Do
the
aforementioned
pond
is
achieved.
stentorian confi dence, “I made these truffl es
ing heat from your cooling cream will not be
little sprinkly things your mom would put on enough
this part to with
a chef’s
as cation
you can
rock
At my
this own
point,
you
have a decision to make:
with
two
hands!”
complete
the knife,
meltifi
process.
cookies. Because truffl es can be messy, that
its
curved
blade
over
the
chocolate
like
you’re
Melon
baller
or
piping
bag?
By the way, the reason
I said to work
If that happens, make a bain marie: Bring
coating prevents your hands from getting all about
mincing
garlic.
2 inches of water to a boil in a saucepan, quickly is because as the unrolled truffl es sit
See don’t
Truffl want
es/Page
chocolatey as you gorge yourself like a dingo
Next,
grab the
a metal
mixing
bowl. your
Make
sure out, they warm up. Also, you
the 3B
then
reduce
heat to
low. Place
bowl
in an abattoir.
of creamy choco-lumps on top, taking care not truffl es to stay in your hands any longer than
Because of the truffl e’s paucity of ingredi- to get any water into the bowl. (Should this
necessary because they’ll start to melt. But,
ents, my advice is to start with a bar of high happen and your chocolate seizes, mix in a
look, don’t kid yourself: Chocolate is messy,
quality dark chocolate, something in the 60% little boiling water and it should turn liquid
and by the time you’re done your hands will
to 70% cacao range.
again.) Continue stirring over the steam until remind you of those halcyon days spent mud
As for the cream, the thing you want to pay the aforementioned pond is achieved.
wrestling out back of the tavern. Still, the
attention to is ratios. Ganache comes in differ-
faster you roll, the cleaner you’ll stay. You
At this point, you have a decision to make:
ent thicknesses, like lenses at the optometrist. Melon baller or piping bag?
could always pop the ganache back in the
For truffl es, you want a fairly stiff ganache,
fridge to chill if things get too warm.
Shouldst thou go with the melon baller
roughly a 2 to 1 ratio of chocolate to cream. If (what we with the fancy French culinary edu-
Once all your truffl es look like tiny brown
you’re fl avoring your truffl es, fi gure about an macation like to call a “Parisian scoop”), fi rst
moons, roll them in something dry, like
ounce of booze or a teaspoon of extract per cup use your spatula to scrape the ganache into
powdered sugar, cocoa powder, coconut fl akes,
f
crushed nuts, etc. You could also dip them in
melted chocolate, but, that will be a longer
lesson for another day. Store them in the
fridge for up to a week, or, before you do that,
you could just see how many you can cram
into your piehole all at once. Either way, you
will revel in your humanity.
CHOCOLATE TRUFFLES
Prep: 30 minutes
Chill: 30 to 60 minutes
Makes: 45 truffl es
1 pound block good bittersweet or semi-
sweet chocolate, 60% or higher cacao
8 ounces heavy cream
1 ounce softened butter
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
Dutch-processed cocoa powder, crushed
nuts, powdered sugar, sprinkles
or other coating ingredients
1. Using a serrated knife, shave chocolate
into thin slices, then mince the pile of shav-
ings to make very small pieces. Scrape choco-
late into a clean, dry, stainless steel bowl.
2. Heat cream to simmering, then pour over
chocolate. Stir in a tight circle from center of
bowl, gradually working in cream from edges
to form an emulsion. This is your ganache.
(Note: If your chocolate doesn’t melt all the
way, place the bowl over a bain marie — a
saucepan in which a couple inches of water
is simmering. Keep the fl ame turned low and
take care not to get any water in the ganache
while you continue stirring until the chocolate
is completely melted.)
3. When the cream is fully incorporated and
the chocolate ganache is smooth and creamy,
stir in butter and vanilla until incorporated.
4. To form truffl es, there are two common
methods, which we’ll call Method A and
Method B:
Method A: Pipe small ganache pyramids
onto a parchment-covered baking sheet.
Refrigerate until fi rm, about 30 minutes, then
roll each piece between your palms to form a
sphere.
Method B: Refrigerate all the ganache in the
mixing bowl or in a fl atter container (for faster
chilling), until fi rm, 30 to 60 minutes. Using a
melon baller, carve out spheres of chocolate
and place them on a parchment-lined baking
sheet. Do not obsess over the perfection or
lack thereof of your ganache balls. When the
baking sheet is full, roll each ball between
your palms to achieve a more spherical
shape.
5. Place cocoa powder, nuts, powdered
sugar or some other coating ingredient into a
bowl. Roll each truffl e in coating, then return
to baking sheet. Refrigerate up to two weeks,
as if they’ll last longer than a couple days.
Nutrition information per truffl e: 73 calories,
7 g fat, 4 g saturated fat, 7 mg cholesterol, 5
g carbohydrates, 3 g sugar, 1 g protein, 1 mg
sodium, 1 g fi ber
Get cooking with your new air fryer
By Addie Broyles
Austin American-Statesman
If you got an air fryer this
holiday season, you’re in for
a treat.
These $60 to $250 ma-
chines have been the next
best way to get dinner on
the table (after the Instant
Pot, of course) for two years
now, and its fans are more
like devotees, spreading the
good word of perfect french
fries, crusted salmon, quick
and easy kale chips, chicken
wings that the family can’t
eat fast enough and the most
succulent steak you’ve ever
tasted.
Unlike electric pressure
cookers or slow cookers, air
fryers specialize in using
dry heat to cook foods, much
like a convection oven. Hot
air swirls around the food,
crisping the outside edges or
giving it a roasted or broiled
effect, without an oven.
This means it can cook
everything from broccoli
to chicken tenders, bagels
to churros. I’ve even seen
cake recipes in some of the
cookbooks that have come
through my offi ce.
All year, I’d been thinking
about getting an air fryer,
and I fi nally got one on a
Black Friday sale. It is a
high-rated, 5.8-quart model
from GoWise USA that runs
for about $100, and I tried it
for the fi rst time on my Aus-
tin360 Facebook livestream
recently.
The shiny black appliance
is bigger than I thought it
would be, but it also heats
up faster and more intensely
Minneapolis Star Tribune/ TNS
An air fryer and toaster oven.
than I thought it would.
Rather than test it with fries
or chicken wings, I decided
to make bagel chips using a
recipe from “The Essential
Air Fryer Cookbook” by
Bruce Weinstein and Mark
Scarbrough (Voracious,
$19.99).
I tossed the bagel chips in
a little olive oil, but one of
the fi rst big lessons I learned
is that you don’t have to add
oil. The circulating hot air
alone will cook and crisp the
food. Any additional oil, like
the drizzle of olive oil on the
bagel slices, can add more
fl avor.
I also tossed them in garlic
salt before adding the pieces
to the nonstick basket with a
handle that nests into anoth-
er nonstick pan. That’s what
you slide into the machine.
The digital display has
eight presets, including fries,
chicken and fi sh, and you
can manually set the tem-
perature anywhere between
170 and 400 degrees. The
bagel chips cooked at 400
degrees and were done in
about six minutes, just a few
shy of the eight called for
in the recipe. I also realized
that the device heats up so
quickly, you don’t really need
to warm it up fi rst.
The bagel chips were in-
credibly crisp and satisfying,
and it took even less time
than I thought it would. The
size of this particular air fry-
er, however, is also taking up
more room than I thought it
would. I should have opted
for the smaller model.
A reader who has a con-
vection oven reported that
she uses air fryer recipes in
her convection oven, without
having to change the method
or ingredients.
AIR FRYER
BAGEL CHIPS
These snackable crisps are
perfect for a cheese plate,
a snack lunch or a road
trip. Use as many bagels as
you’d like, and season before
and after cooking for bagel
chips that bite. Stir or toss
the chips halfway through
cooking to help them cook
evenly. Trader Joe’s sells an
everything bagel seasoning
mixture that is a perfect
match for these chips, but so
are the spice rubs and mixes
already in your pantry.
You could use cinnamon
and sugar to make a sweet
bagel chip, but the cookbook
authors don’t recommend
using blueberry or raisin
“The Essential Air Fryer Cookbook: The Only Book You
Need for Your Small, Medium, or Large Air Fryer” by
Bruce Weinstein and Mark Scarbrough
bagels to make the chips
because small pieces of the
fruit might fall to the bottom
of the fryer and burn. You’ll
have to use a whole, unsplit
bagel if you want full bagel
rounds. A bagel already split
into halves will yield bagel
straws.
in the basket of an air fryer
and cook at 400 degrees for 6
to 8 minutes, tossing halfway
through. Keep an eye on the
chips during their last few
minutes. You want them crisp
and brown, but not burnt.
Season again, to taste, and
serve. Serves 2 to 4.
— Addie Broyles
1 or 2 bagels, sliced
1 to 2 teaspoons olive
oil or melted butter
Heavy pinch of salt, garlic
salt or other spice mix
In a large bowl, toss togeth-
er the ingredients. Place them
— Adapted from a recipe
in “The Essential Air Fryer
Cookbook: The Only Book
You Need for Your Small,
Medium, or Large Air Fryer”
by Bruce Weinstein and Mark
Scarbrough (Voracious,
$19.99)