WEDNESDAY, DECEMBER 4, 2019 BOB’S THOUGHTS THE OBSERVER & BAKER CITY HERALD — 5 NORTHEAST OREGON EXTRA The Centerpiece Of The Holiday Meal BOB BAUM Rebecca’s search Editor’s note: Bob Baum grew up in Union. He retired in February after 43 years, mostly as a sports writer, with The Associated Press in Portland and Phoe- nix, Arizona. He lives with his wife Leah in Island City. Forewarning: This column is special. There is such a need for happy-ending stories these days. So let me tell you about Rebecca She was born on July 29, 1986, at a Portland hospital. Her mother struggled with drug ad- diction all her life, so Rebecca’s childhood was pretty miserable. She fi gures she moved perhaps 20 times as a child. She recalls being evicted one Christmas Eve. For a time, the family lived in a campground. The father of her half-brother was abusive. She left home for good at 14. Rebecca had an older half-brother and a younger one. All had different fathers. Except Rebecca didn’t know who hers was. She knew one thing for sure, she was very different from those around her. And where did that curly hair come from? When she was 16, Rebecca and the rest of her extended family moved to Florida. The plan was for the many addicts in the family to get off drugs. It mostly didn’t work. Rebecca’s mom died late last year of complications due to her long drug history. She was 54. At 19, Rebecca married Evan and the couple and their beloved dogs settled in to a house in Clearwater. She had pretty much given up on fi nd- ing her father. It seemed impossible. Her mother told her of a man that might be him. Rebecca met him once in a bar, and he wanted nothing to do with her. Re- becca was sure he wasn’t the right one. She lives a busy life, working as a due diligence specialist for an investment fi rm while attending college full-time. She’s on the brink of earning an associ- ate’s degree in business and will transfer to University of South Florida to pursue her bachelor’s degree. Last Christmas, Rebecca’s boss gave her, as a gift, membership in Ancestry. com. Maybe, just maybe, that would lead her to her dad. On May 21, I received an email. It read, in part: “From the DNA it appears you are my dad. … I’ve wondered who my dad was my whole life and it’s a question I desperately need an answer to. … Again, I am not looking for anything from you but a possible relationship but I will respect your decision either way.’’ As any reader probably has guessed by now, I’m Rebecca’s dad. Of course, I had no idea she existed. Her mom didn’t remember me and, sadly, I didn’t recognize her from photos Rebecca sent me. I do not have an Ancestry.com mem- bership. But my oldest sister does. So do several other relatives. Rebecca reached out to some of them. The most helpful responses came half- way around the world from Lindsay, the granddaughter of my oldest sister who lives with her young family on Okina- wa, where her husband is stationed. Lindsay, who had been through this sort of thing before with another family member, helped Rebecca sort through who all these people are. Advances in DNA testing are astonishing. Ancestry identifi ed my sister Janice as Rebecca’s aunt. Others were her cousins. All signs pointed to me. I knew nothing of this. A couple of strange messages had been sent, one to my wife Leah on Facebook, seeking my email address. At fi rst, we fi gured it was some scam and told her to go away, something for which my wife subsequently apologized repeatedly. Then another sister showed up at my doorstep to give me the news. My reac- tion was, initially, shock. But that was followed by such a happi- ness for Rebecca to have finally found me. I responded to her email and sent my phone number. A long, exceedingly pleasant, phone conversation followed, the first of many. I’m a bit ashamed I don’t remem- ber Rebecca’s mom. Those were my hedonistic years between a divorce and my giving up drinking three decades ago. But even though I feel badly about Jarrad Henderson//Detroit Free Press-TNS Sue Selasky’s roast turkey with sage pan gravy. T OP T URKEY T ACTIC time: 3 hours By Susan Selasky Detroit Free Press Thanksgiving is a meal about comfort food, and that’s a good thing. Comfort food doesn’t always come easy, but smart cooks know that a good game plan will get them through the big meal. If you haven’t begun planning your feast for the holiday, fear not. We’re here to help. After all, Thanksgiving is about giving and sharing. As the holiday approaches every year, we get bombarded with turkey recipes, tips and cooking suggestions from all sorts of sources, but we believe in sticking to tried-and-true techniques to help achieve our ultimate goal: a deep honey-brown turkey with crisp skin and meat that’s tender and juicy. There are so many ways to cook a turkey. You can roast, grill or fry it and cook it in a bag, in a pan or on a rack. You can even take it apart and roast it or cut the back out and fl atten it (a process called spatchcock) so that it cooks in half the time. But in the Free Press Test Kitchen, we’re creatures of habit. We wet or dry brine the turkey or apply a seasoned butter under and on the skin. Brining helps ensure that the turkey stays moist. Using seasoned but- ter means there’s no need to baste the bird. When it’s time to cook, we roast or sometimes grill, which frees up oven space. ROAST TURKEY WITH SAGE PAN GRAVY Serves: 12 / Preparation time: 1 hour / Total One (12- to 14-pound) turkey fresh (or frozen and thawed) 3 tablespoons chopped fresh sage, divided 2 tablespoons canola oil 2 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened 1¼ teaspoons kosher salt, divided ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, divided 1 lemon, halved crosswise 6 garlic cloves, peeled 3 carrots, coarsely chopped 3 celery stalks, coarsely chopped 2 medium onions, coarsely chopped 1 bay leaf 3 cups no-salt-added or less-sodium, fat-free chicken stock, divided 2 cups water 3 tablespoons white wine 3 tablespoons all-purpose fl our Preheat oven to 325 degrees Fahrenheit. Remove giblets and neck from turkey; dis- card liver. Reserve turkey neck and giblets. Pat turkey dry with paper towels; trim and discard excess fat. Starting at neck cavity, loosen the skin with the breast using your fi ngers at fi rst. Then gently slide a thin plastic spatula under the skin, pushing it gently to loosen the skin under the entire breast, legs and thighs. Combine 2 tablespoons sage, oil, butter, 1 teaspoon salt and ¼ teaspoon black pepper. Rub sage mixture under the loosened skin and over breasts and drumsticks. Squeeze juice from 1 lemon half over turkey; place remain- ing lemon half in cavity. Tie legs together with kitchen string. Place reserved giblets, neck, garlic, carrots, celery, onion and bay leaf in the bottom of a large roasting pan. Add 1 cup stock and 2 cups water to pan. Place roasting rack in pan. Arrange turkey, breast side up, on roasting rack. Bake turkey for 1 hour and 20 minutes, rotating pan every 30 minutes. Increase oven temperature to 425 degrees (do not remove turkey from oven). Bake turkey an additional 30 minutes or until a thermometer inserted into meaty part of thigh registers 160 to 165 degrees. Remove turkey from pan; place on a cutting board. Let stand for 30 minutes. Carve turkey. Place a large zip-top plastic bag inside a 4-cup glass measure. Strain pan drippings through a colander into bag; discard solids. Let drippings stand 10 minutes. Seal bag; snip off 1 bottom corner of bag. Drain pan drippings into a medium saucepan, stopping before fat layer reaches the opening. Add remaining 1 tablespoon sage, remaining ¼ teaspoon salt, remaining ¼ teaspoon black pepper, 1½ cups chicken stock and wine to drippings in pan; bring to a boil. Cook for 15 minutes or until re- duced to 2½ cups. Combine fl our and remain- ing ½ cup chicken stock in a small bowl, stirring with a whisk until smooth. Stir fl our mixture into stock mixture in pan; bring to a boil. Boil 1 minute or until slightly thick, stirring gravy constantly. Serve gravy with turkey. 315 calories (26% from fat), 9 g fat (3 g saturat- ed fat), 3 g carbohydrates, 52 g protein, 349 mg sodium, 172 mg cholesterol, less than 1 g fi ber. Simple soup can conjure memories Brodo is the Italian word for broth — o’s that roll over their d like a mountain stream over stones. Its sound moves through the mouth more like broth than does our own word, one that fades abruptly into fuzz, tasting like fur next to satiny brodo. I am not an advocate of cultural self- loathing, but some words just don’t fi t. Brodo does. In certain Italian preparations, brodo is allowed to take the main stage, poured in its understated elegance over simple pasta — a few handmade tortellini or ravi- oli — and that’s it. Letting broth shine is a global culinary tradi- tion. Think pho, dashi, borscht, sweet-and-sour, avgolémono, cocky leeky, consommé, or the proverbial chicken soup, dishes that vary widely in fl avor but all start pretty bits, technique that relies on diligence and time more than expertise or expense, a humble food fi t for kings. I avoided making broth for a SARAH WEST long time because it seemed like too much fuss for soup base. simmer. Something distant haunted When I say broth — or stock, me, though, in my dismissal of or, especially, brodo — I’m not homemade broth: a soup my referring to anything you’ve ever mother often made soon after poured out of a can, salty bouil- Thanksgiving that we would rel- lon cubes dissolved in hot water, ish for a week or so each year. or concentrates dolloped into the Once the carcass was cleaned pot. On the road to true broth, of sandwich meat, she trans- there are no shortcuts. While there formed it into a tub of broth that may be a place for these stand-ins lived in the fridge. For a quick amidst our crowded lives, they lunch or dinner, she warmed aren’t brodo. some on the stove, adding bits When I speak of broth, it is of of turkey, thin strips of Napa that rich, impossibly simple liquid cabbage placed in the pot just that enthralls our senses with long enough to soften but not the same charisma as a steak. It fully cook, and a few dashes of is peasant food in one of its most soy sauce for seasoning. It was EATER’S DIGEST Submitted photo From left, Leah Baum, Rebecca and Rebecca’s dad. those years I can’t regret them because it led to this wonderful young woman who seems so strong, smart and driven. Besides, as one of my favorite sayings goes, “I have given up all hope of having a better past.’’ Rebecca offered to pay for a DNA test to prove I was the one. I said there was no need. One look at her and just a few minutes on the phone convinced me. Besides, the other DNA didn’t lie. Last July, just before her birthday, Rebecca and Evan came for a visit. My daughter Brandi, satisfying chew of the turkey, the her husband and two young boys light crunch of the cabbage, and came, too. else that went beyond something We went to Catherine Creek fl avor, beyond feeling. I loved State Park and a barbecue on my this soup more than the entire deck. The big event was a “wel- Thanksgiving feast, and since a come-to-the-family’’ in the turkey carcass only picnic came around once or twice a year, was a backyard of my niece, it Joni. delicacy I looked to. My sisters and forward brother were Food So can set an this kind of hook there. were assortment of in us. of This plain turkey soup some my was many other relatives not a live gourmet for me who around meal, here. but It was a big it was anchored in a particular success. time and place. Rebecca was a little over- I grew up in the Midwest whelmed but was gamely cheer- where late November could al- ful throughout, even Where when some ready be quite cold. a body of my more inquisitive relatives adjusting to its new reality — to peppered her with questions. days shortening and trees (most in a Mexican of After them dinner deciduous) stripped of restaurant, Rebecca everything green and and ice Evan growing from for the edge of But the Rebecca lake — and left Florida. need few something deeply I might text every days and talk on comforting. the phone regularly. She really is quite a young woman. We hope to go to Florida for a visit in the next year or so. As I said, I felt so much joy for Rebecca for fi nding her dad and, hopefully, fi nding that he’s not such a bad guy after all. But now I fi nd that, while I’m happy for her, I’m just as happy for me. See what I mean? Special.