Tuesday, July 18. 1926: -
v Millinery Expert Tells
How To Renovate Hats
LA G3AND2 EVENING OBSERVES
Miss Esther B. Cooley
Explains the Ways and
Means of Modern
izing Work
(My l-Mlter H.C)oofejr) .-;
Clothing Specialist. F.xtension Serv.
Ice, Oregon Agricultural College.
Old or dingy hat may often be
modernized and renewed with
very llttlo time, effort, or money
expenditure,
EqulpairM,
rsual sewing- equipment and &
pair of small pliers can bo nvado
to function satisfactorily. Thore
are some millinery equipment
pieces that would find mora or
less constant use In any dressmak
ing: work. Following- are descrip
tions ot equipment and supplies:
Milliner's thread Specially pre
pared, well twisted, heavily waxed,
easily drawn through materials.
Bilk thread fray out and breaks
and should not be used if. colorsl.
can bo matched in cotton. Oct a
fine hard twisted cotton . If you
. " .... ,, ," . " ruuijins a. wei. ciom in xno op-
Uomot wish to buy milliner's throadf po80 direction of the nap. After
und use bees wax. ' Also useful for
sewing-on buttons. '.. .',...1;
Milliner's ncedles--lJotig. .small
eye needle. Kot absolutely essen
tial but a convenience in- .long
stitches required for millinery. Use
ful in dressmaking kUso. Assorted
sizes For drillings and very coarso,
mutcrlala uso needles 1-8, . thread
8-25 cotton, 40-tfo linen; Buckram,,
needles 4-G, thread 24-18 cotton.
60-80 linen; ' silks ' and .velvets,
needles 7, thread (0-80, A. and B.
sewing silk; organdies and chif
fons, needles 10-12, thread 100
160. 00-000 sewing silk. .- '
Pliers -For bending, twisting and
cutting wire. ' '' '
Wlro Brace No. 21, wh'lto , or
black, silk or cotton covered, for
frame work. Lace wlro No. 19,
white, black, silk or, cotton cover
ed for light frame work, facings,
ftc- Tlo wire, covered, black,
while used for frame work, trlnv
mlngs, etc. ltlbbon wiro oonsblt"
of two or moro flno parollol wires
over which muslin Is folded or
pasted forming a flat tapo that
may bo bent to any desired shape.
lined for ribbon stiffening support
ing drapes and for making head
size bands. ' .
, Hub B11iu.lt sharp pointed steel
pins most desirable as, they do not
injure or dlsarrango materials.
Milliner's cement For uso in
cementing fitted covering on hats
or making various trimmings, etc.
Docs not stain. Will evaporato it
left loosely corked. Add gasoline
to thin.
Clips Can bo obtained in vari
ous sizes.' Suitable for joining ends
construction wires. : Should not be
-used where tlicro'ls: any'' strain
tending to separate ends of wlro.
Buckram Oood for general
utility hat. Purchasable tn black
and white In several grades and
wiith. Klthcr 2 or 8 ply ma
terial. Used as foundation frame
for fabrlo and straw braid Hats;
us head bands for bias crlnolln or
net loo brims or- for flarbto brim
with spring wlro edges, innova
tion Knongo and press1 with med
ium hot. iron. If it still remains
limp In ono or two lines, a paten
of new buckram may bo cemented
or stitched over cracks. It it has
an all-over limpness, worthwhile
renovation Is Impossible.'
' Tailor's canvas Used ns Inter
linings in soft sports hats.
. nrlnnlln Black and white sin-.
gle-ply open mesh fabric, henvlly
slzed. Oood for crown rounaa
tloiw, brim bindings, narrow, brims
for gingham, hats, vizor edges for
twines, linings for drapery trim
ming foundations, etc. Valueless
for anything but brim bindings af
ter sizing is gone. 86 inch width.
Khietle cloth-'-FlextblB net, net
Ine; white, cream' or black. Oood
general utility foundation. Used
for roll edges on brims, roll side
crowns, roll edge for toques, nar
row brlmrt; 44 inch width. -
l.lnintm for hats-rSllk tr- Cot-,
ton; black, whito or colored. Mart
be purchased or mnqoslf olfl ones
are not available. HnutiJ oval tops
with bias piece sides ' preferred
style. ; ,!' V
Crowns NetliKV most durable;
buckram good) rtc net. poor damp
weather quality; 1 crlnolln. f poor
damp weather. In a variety of
shapes, may be purchased , from
wiioleKiln or retail houses, used as
a foundation for various hat
crowns and toques. Difficult to
rcnovato without spoiling shapes.
Brims Netinc durable; buokram
good; rice net will not stand iriuch
damp weather, and cannot bo ren
ovated as Is mostly starch.
Cleaning.
Spot Oily hair and powder
marks may be sponged oft with
commercial cleanors obtainable
from drug store and filling sta
tion?. Hub with soft cloth, con
tinuously until dampened area is
dry. paying especial attention to
rubbing the margins off the spot
so tlfcit a ring does not form.
Surface scrubbing High test
gasoline or alcohol may be applied
with a soft brush to felt and straw
surraccs and much soil removed.
Felt hats may also to scrubbed
with very rino sandpaper. This
cleans and docs not roughen the
surnice.
Imrm-rslon Hats of almost any
description may bo completely Im
mersed in high test gasoline, rub
bing soiled spots lightly until they
disappear. The gasoline can be
used over again and sgoin If dirt
1b allowed to settle out and top
poured off.
Caution This type ot dunning
Hhould be done Out of doors well
awaj from any fire, with the wind
blowing vapor away from the in
dividual cleaning. Surfaces should
not be rubbed too hard or pressed
before thoroughly dry.
Cleaning- and Meacbinif Milan.
hemp, Panama end rough straw
nata In natural colors these
straws may be treated with oxalic
acid solution as described. Do not
put bands la solution. Dlssolvo 1
tablespoonful oxalio acid in 1 pint
of water. Tost solution by drop
Ping a teaapoonful on a pine board.
Bubbles indicate too strong a solu
tion, If It bubbles, add mora wa
ter, Use small scrubbing brush;
scrub rapidly beginning in center
top crown, rubbing around and
around until all parts of the crown
and brim are reached. Whirl in
air or sunlight until dry; press with
fingers or warm Iron it it gets
out of shape.
Fabric cleaning; Velvets To
steam, place hot Iron flat sldo up,
over which lay a damp cloth, rasa
tho velvet right side up. over the
stoamlng cloth, at tho tamo time
brushing gently against tho nap
with a sort brush. Tho steam
raises the nap and romoves creases.
Do not allow steam to wot tho
velvet. Do not touch surface of
volvet until It Is thoroughly dry.
. To "broad-tall," placo velvet face
down on a table, dampen the back
ny rubbing a wet cloth in tho op-
HI
the material is well moistened, fold
it once lengthwise with nap insido.
Twist and wring the piece. When
twisted tight, tie tho ends firmly
and stretch between two chairs so
that It will not untwist ami let re
main twisted until dry. Untwist
and use foe trim on covering.
' - To panne velvet press lightly on
right side with the nap being care
ful not to allow the Iron to rest
too long on any ono spot as it will
leavo an imprint. s
Brocaded effects may bo pro
duced by Arranging coarso laco
patterns on pile surfaco of vel
vet, placing wet ironing, sheet over
this and pressing with the nap un
til pattern Is thoroughly dried In
velvet. Worn, . pieced, or faded
velvets can bo camouflaged by this
method.
Klbbons Black ribbons arc ren
ovated -with a sponging solution
of one-third alcohol and two-thirds
water: when partly dry, iron un
der paper or s piece of black crlnolln-
with a moderately warm Iron
Immerse colored ribbons into
high test gasoline to -clean them-.
Ulbbons op good quality will wash
If carefully done. Do not wring
iron between papers.
Bilk Japanese. China. India and
pongee silks ere freshened by
washing In warm soapsuds, rinsing
quickly and-drylng in tho shade;
roll In a sheet before dry. Iron on
the wrong side. Colored silk fades
and 'white silk yellows after wash
ing. This may be avoided by using
medium warm' soap and water and
rinsing well; wrap- In to, large cloth
(an old sheet Is satisfactory) un
til sarnewhat dried and then iron
On .tho. wrong sld.q with a moderate
iron, using thin lawn or paper be
tween the. iron and silk. Do not
let it. come in contact with tho
light arid air while wet, as the
yellows and fades tho fabric.
When black silk or satin be
gins to shine, spongo on tho right
side with a mixture of two parts
alcohol and one of water, and iron
on .wrong side while still damp.
Luce Basto both edges of lace
to a piece of muslin. Dace in
soap solution, do not rub. Hlnsc
and place between dry cloths or
white blotting paper to dry. If
carefully stretched the laco will
not require pressing.
; Feathers and Flowers Clean
by Immersing in gasoline or steam
ing. White Ostrich Dip feather in
high test gasoline. Squeeze the
flues between Uie fingers moving
from the stem toward the tips.
When tho feather Is clean, rinse
In clean gasoline to which has been
added wheat flour In proportions
2 tablespoons Hour to one pint
gasoline. Shako the feather in the
air until dry.
Dark or Colored Ostrich Clean
In wood alcohol or gasoline and
rlnso In clean alcohol or gasoline.
. To curl ostrich Shake feathers
over a jet of steam, holding a rew
flues between the thumb and a
case knife, druwlng the knife from
the stem out to tho end ot tho flue.
Curl only the tips.
Itcooloring.
Huts: Painting Straw or fell
hats are colored successfully some
times with mixtures of oil paint
and gasoline or sealing wux and
alcohol. Healing wax-alcohol solu
tion prepared as follows: powder
scaling wax, molMeft slightly with
alcohol and allow- to stand 10 or
12 hours until thoroughly sorten
ed, then add enough alcohol to
mako usablo as a paint. Kxpcrl
nient with colors you wish to use
on lower insido crown to see what
effect present color or hat has.
Commercial paints ror hats or
so-called dyes may bo applied.
Sometimes glvo huts ait objection
able stlfrness. Try out on lower
Insido crown surface.
Dyeing Milan hats, struw braids
may bo boll-dyed with any cotton
cloth dye. It will, of course, be
necessary to reblock hut. After
such a coloring process, straw
bruids may be pressed.
Flowers and feathers may be
trimmed and then reUilned by dip
ping In gasollno and oil paints or
by painting wilh oil or metal paints
or sealing wax and alcohol. Sta
men centers and margins should be
glvqn especlul attention. 'loosen
ed wires may be glued, or better,
cemented in pluce. Feather pom
poms und ostrich tips arc rejuve
nated and mode more ultractlve If
a few flues aro brushed lightly
with metul paint
Fabrics, ribbons und braids may
bo rctinted with oil paints and
gtafollnc. Faded out patterns may
be traced over and emphasized
with oil paints, sealing wax, or
rruyolas. (Crayolt drawings on
fabric are fairly permanent If
A Message-
T
Tee Homme-
Wli JJs3i VUIU
mm.
To those attending the Homemakers' Institute which is to be held at La Grande July .;:
13 -17 we would call attention to the fact that , as furniture specialist -we" .-'
are equipped and in a position to carry out the ideas and suggestions that will be '
embodied in the lectures on Home Furnishing to be given by the various authorities
on this occasion. i
LIVING ROOM FURNITURE. You will find in our stocks production from
the leading furniture manufacturers of the country, such as Levine, Karpen, Greg
ory and Heywood-Wakefield. This merchandise is not only nationally advertised
but the quality is also guaranteed by the makers' reputation for superior
merchandise.
DINING ROOM FURNITURE. A wide variety of period styles carefully chos
en and planned to embody every requirement of taste and space, impressive de
signs, richness coupled with quality. 1,. V
BED ROOM FURNITURE. Represented on our floors is the type of furniture
of which ypu can be honestly proud every; item, pJUmI iffJcMceb!"ref,
the splendid quality and beauty of the off erings. Here you can e the productiunc
of the Sleigh Furniture Company, nationally famous for their exquisite and exclusive
line of bedroom furniture. . ' 4 ,
: , ".-'-,... . - , '-"- j ' ,
.... . - . . - '' ' y V; r ,'
RUGS. An assembly of the world's finest rugs, among which will be found the ,
Hciati, Diglow, Buckingham and Whittals, the wide variety of weaves and colors
gives almost unlimited opportunity for a careful comparison and correct selection.
DRAPERIES. Of all the factors which enter into home decoration that which
is nearest to the heart of the homemakcr is the question of curtains and draperies,
ihe beauty of a curtain is not in its intrinsic value but in its design and in the skill , .
with which it is draped to meet the two fold requirement of serving 1U purpose
usefully and harmonizing with the room. Our lines include the Orinka overdrapes,
Quaker Lace, Bromley Silk Net and Panel Curtains. , ,
The services of our own interior decorator are at your disposal, and any ad
vice or suggestions you may require in the way of home decoration will be given
gladly and involves no obligation on your part. - .
- i - . -
SERVICE. It is because of the service we render that we are able to offer
you greater value. This service begins before your purchase. It embraces the se
lection of the market's best merchandise. It likewise entails the rejection of goods
that would not give you the value that our customers have learned to expect In
every way we strive to conserve your interests even before you come into the store
and after you have made your purchase our interest continues. We consider no sale
complete unless you arc entirely satisfied. . - ,
(Continued on I'atfts Teo.)
II . '4 - - ;
i : ;
CARR
"Specialists Tn Home Furnishings"
J