Appeal tribune. (Silverton, Or.) 1999-current, September 20, 2017, Page 3A, Image 3

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    Appeal Tribune Wednesday, September 20, 2017 3A
Health care detective
work at Golf Club
Golfers get a chance to be
health sleuths in Santiam
ANNETTE UTZ
SPECIAL TO THE STAYTON MAIL
Golfers will get a chance to be health
sleuths when Santiam Hospital presents
the first Un-Murder Mystery Golf Tour-
nament on Saturday, Sept. 23. The eight-
een-hole, four-person scramble will be
held at the Santiam Golf Club. Hunt for
clues on the course for a chance to win
prizes.
Those who register individually be
matched with other players.
The cost is $50 per person, which in-
cludes golf, a cart, lunch and one drink
Beer
Continued from Page 1A
Hops: from pillows to pilsners
Early Oregon farmers rarely grew
hops for beer.
In the 1800s, before Goschies began
growing hops, fresh cones were stuffed
into pillowcases to lull children to sleep,
used as an antibacterial agent in soap,
and served as a homegrown antidepres-
sant.
But as beer popularized, so did hops,
and harvests became larger and larger.
The Goschie family started growing
hops commercially in 1904. By then,
brewers were the customers.
Now that harvest has started at Gos-
chie Farms, employees drive through
the hop fields, cutting the "bines," the
vines on which hops grow. The full bines
fall into a truck trailer for the ride to the
harvesting machine.
Farm workers attach full bines to a
chain, which carries them through a
picking tunnel. Metallic fingers knock
the cones onto a conveyor belt, which
carries the hops into a new room. The na-
ked bines are tossed aside.
The hops fall onto a mesh platform;
underneath, hot air heats a concrete
chamber, drying the hops from the bot-
tom. This preserves them, releasing
some of oils that smell like fresh basil
and olive oil pesto.
All you can see are hops, only hops, as
if the entire chamber is filled with them.
Their petals are now like moth’s
wings, delicate, almost silken. Yellow
dust clings to its core, the smell like lem-
on peel and roasted pine cones. The smell
of the oil is herbaceous and sweet. It
clings to you the way the smell of Christ-
mas trees and garlands lingers in your
living room long after the needles have
been swept away.
These are Centennial hops, often
called the "super-Cascade." High in alpha
acid — the stuff that bitters beer — Cen-
tennial hops have a lot of bittering power
with distinctive aromas, a quality in
American craft brewing hops popular-
ized by the Cascade.
But it took a while for that to become
popular. First, a hops geneticist in Cor-
vallis had to fail.
Building the perfect hop
The Cascade hop was created by sci-
entists and farmers in Oregon on behalf
of the U.S. government and Big Beer. In
the 1930s, as prohibition loomed, the US-
DA and Oregon State University devel-
oped a small hops genetics program to
develop new pest-and-mildew resistant
varieties of hops.
After prohibition, big brewing com-
panies like Anheuser-Busch and Miller-
Coors grew to a point where they were
willing to fund research to create more
"efficient" hops. These "macrobrewer-
ies" began funding research to develop
better alpha hops, also known as bitter-
ing hops, with high percentages of alpha
acid. The goal: fewer hops that could bit-
ter more beer.
Oregon's climate was always a little
too wet for heavy alpha varieties, which
eventually pushed Washington into the
lead of hop production. Oregon’s golden
ticket.
A lunch of pulled pork sandwiches,
side salads and dessert will be served at
1:30 p.m. in the banquet room.
“This is basically a community aware-
ness event, kind of like our fun run,”
Event Assistant Diana Miller said.
“People can learn about symptoms,
who to ask or see, resources, that kind of
thing.” Check-in/registration begins at
7:30 a.m. and the tournament starts at 9.
To register, go to http://www.wvi.com/
~dnielson/forms/HospitalGolfTourna-
ment.pdf.
Santiam Golf Club is located at 8724
Golf Club Rd., Aumsville.
For more information, contact Lau-
ren Benjamin at 503-769-3485.
age of development started to dwindle.
In 1965, OSU hop geneticist Alfred
Haunold joined the team as a research
geneticist. He slowly started to pursue a
hop that would be rich in citrus notes,
like a bittering hop, but moderate in al-
pha acid. Haunold revived a forgotten
Fuggle variety cross from 1956, which he
didn’t release until the 1970s. He named
the hop "Cascade."
"There is no craft brewing. Even like
the early '70s guys in California, they
have no influence on the market," says
Tiah Edmunson-Morton, director of the
Oregon Hops and Brewing Archives and
OSU professor. "So these macrobrewers
are looking for... something that Cascade
was not."
Those macrobrewers looked to Wash-
ington companies for a replacement, and
Haunold tried to figure out what to do
with his Cascade hop. It was about to go
out of production when a handful of
small brewers – Widmer Brothers in
Portland, Sierra Nevada in California –
discovered the rejected Cascade.
These craft brewers knew Cascade
was going to change the game.
"Once Cascade was released for sure,
Haunold makes more crosses, more re-
leases, and that’s where you get Willam-
ette, that’s where you get Nugget," Ed-
munson-Morton said. "Mt. Hood, all the
hops that are named after various areas
of Oregon."
These early craft brewers saved the
Cascade hop, making it one of the most
popular IPA hops on the West Coast. By
the time Haunold retired in 1995, craft
brewers were closely following what
came comes out of OSU. In particular, a
small hop broker wanted in on the new
wave of aroma hops.
Santiam Hospital presents the first Un-Murder Mystery Golf Tournament on Saturday, Sept. 23.
J USTIN MUCH / THE STAYTON MAIL
afterward. Townshend still pays atten-
tion to adaptability — breeding hops that
work well in Oregon's wet climate — but
he also focuses on those essential oils in-
side a hop: The aromas that brewers now
seek out, everything from lavender to
tangerine. And the Cascade hop remains
a parent to several new varieties, rising
in popularity and still being developed.
Goschie said that the demand for new
and varied beer has translated into a de-
sire for more and more styles of hops,
forcing many farmers to develop their
own versions or buy the rights to grow
new and unusual types. Goschie grows
around 10 varieties of hops, but she also
grows test varieties for various breeders
around the area.
“The beer consumer has been so
spoiled with these brewers continually
making new things," Goschie says.
"You’ve developed a monster. The con-
sumer is never sated."
The farmer walks away from the piles
of now-dry hops and heads to a white-
board. On it, a long list of breweries are
sorted by date: "8/18: 54 40, Ex Novo, Base
Camp, Pyramid." She adds a new beer to
the list, between Deschutes and Monta-
villa.
When these hops are gone, she'll fill
the whiteboard again, variety after va-
riety, until all the hops are gone. The rat-
tle of hop cones will fade until next sea-
son, just as it has for generations.
Hops: what you should know
Hops bitter beer. Little pine-cone-
looking buds, hops contain something
called "alpha acid," which makes beer
bitter. Large-scale brewers look for hops
with lots of alpha acid, because it means
they have to buy fewer hops.
Originally, hops were the ingredi-
ent that kept beer fresh. "Before hops,
brewers were adding all sorts of botan-
icals to make beer," says Tom Shellham-
mer, professor of food science at Oregon
State University. "One of those things
were hops, and people started to notice
that the hops would keep the beer from
growing sour; it had a microbial proper-
ty to it. So people started using hops to
keep beer from going bad."
Hops now add aroma — unless
they're just used to bitter. Hops contain
a core of resin and essential oils, which
help beer develop those fruity, vegetal
and herbal tasting notes. Low alpha acid
hops usually have a wider range of aro-
mas, which is why they’re often called
“aroma hops.”
Aroma hops give beer fresh scents.
Aroma hops are responsible for most of
the flavor notes in beer, excluding things
you associate with baking: chocolate,
malt, caramel, yeast. Hop aromas are of-
ten related to things that are growing:
pine, citrus, mint. Interested in learning
more? Randy Mosher's "Tasting Beer"
can help you understand and identify
those hop characteristics.
Craft brewers often use bittering
and aroma hops. This means brewers
start by boiling their liquid with a base
hop, either something neutral or high al-
pha and then add aroma hops near the
end of the brewing process. If the aroma
hops boil too long, those subtleties of fla-
vor disappear.
Email Brooke Jackson-Glidden broo-
kejg@statesmanjournal.com or call 503-
428-3528. Follow her on Twitter
@jacksonglidden, or like her Facebook
page www.facebook.com/Brooke
Jackson- Glidden.
The new golden age
On a long, boardroom-style table in
the office of Goschie Farms , small piles
of dried and fresh hop cones lie, waiting
to be weighed, ripped and smelled.
These early tests will determine which
hops get picked first, after the Centenni-
als. Some varieties are OSU alums: Wil-
lamette and Santiam. The latter is a Cas-
cade descendant, rising in popularity
across the country.
Two varieties don't yet have names;
Goschie was contracted to grow new,
not-yet-released varieties. Most of the
details are off-limits: The world of hop
development is more competitive than
ever, with a new goal on the forefront.
As craft beer popularized at the end of
the 20th century, aroma hops entered
their Renaissance: The varieties of hops
and their distinct notes became an in-
creasing interest for brewers.
"Because it’s more of an aromatic aro-
ma aspect of the hops, variety plays a
very important role," said Tom Shell-
hammer, professor of food science at
Oregon State University. "They’re kind
of analogous to flowers, you know?"
As the USDA's funding and focus on
hop development began to dissipate at
the turn of the century, a new interest
came from the private sector. In 2010, In-
die Hops , a hop processing company and
distributor, gave OSU $1 million to cre-
ate the new Aroma Hop Breeding Pro-
gram, to develop and perfect the cultiva-
tion and distinctive notes of aroma hops.
Shaun Townsend, a professor at OSU
and hop breeder through the Aroma Hop
Breeding Program, joined the team soon
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September 25
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