Doughnut
continued from page 5
settlers were free to fry the hell out
of whatever bread they could get
their hands on. And fry they did.
However, life was not easy in the
early days of the doughnut. At one
time a solid mass of dough, the pas
tries were difficult to fry all the way
through, leaving a disease-laden
doughy center that wiped out thou
sands, including 12 bakers, known
as “the baker’s dozen.”
It wasn’t until after the American
Revolution that sea captain Hanson
Gregory, visited by an angel bearing
baked goods, discovered the best
way to eliminate the doughy center
was to eliminate the center alto
gether. Thus, the doughnut hole was
born and the ring-shaped treat we
all know and secretly cuddle at
night was christened.
It’s impossible to put a number
on the varieties of doughnuts that
have come and gone in the hun
dreds of years since the Strudeldorf
incident. But it seems if not
upsetting, then at least limiting, to
devour 13 French crullers when one
could choose anything from a
Bavarian to Boston Creme.
At Dizzy Dean’s on West 11th Av
enue, they know this better than any
one. There has been a doughnut shop
in one form or another at this loca
tion for more than 20 years. Two
"It's a simple way to
treat yourself/'
Dean Weaver
owner of Dissy Dean's
years ago, owner Dean Weaver broke
his franchise from WinchelTs and re
placed it with the current establish
ment. The “Dizzy” came from a nick
name his softball teammates gave
him one night after an especially
awful performance on the field.
Whitespear claims that during
Dizzy Dean’s busiest hours, be
tween 11 a.m. and noon, there can
be as many as 40 people gathered
in this corner shop, shoving down
doughnuts with a hot coffee chas
er. It may not be wall-to-wall peo
ple on this afternoon but the place
is far from deserted.
A steady flow of to-go patrons
wander through as Marjorie Sim
mons sips a cup of coffee. She’s
been a fixture at this location for 17
years, meeting friends and immers
ing herself in the intricacies of
doughnut etiquette, specifically cin
namon rolls — not technically a
doughnut but a close enough
relative to pass.
I guess a doughnut veteran like
Simmons has earned her stripes
and is free to eat whatever pastry
interests her. A few tables down, I
saw Jim Leppard and his son Chris
drowning their sorrows over apple
fritters and chocolate milk after the
Ducks’ football loss.
Perhaps this is the key to the
doughnut’s longevity.
“It’s a simple way to treat your
self,” Weaver said. And nothing says
“treat” like an Oreo-dusted choco
late ring of fried bread. While
seemingly timeless staples of
American society like carnival freak
shows and Jim Varney have fallen
into legend, the doughnut endures.
From Krispy Kreme to Winchell’s
to the wacky world of Dizzy Dean’s,
there seems no shortage of shops
carrying on the grand tradition of
that bald dude from the old Dunkin
Donuts commercials, proving it’s
always “time to make the donuts.”
Contact the senior Pulse reporter
atryanbornheimer@dailyemerald.com.
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