Exhibit shows traditional fashions
WASHINGTON (AP) — For hundreds of year*,
the people of Ghana have worn brightly < olored
kente ( loth in traditional ceremonies. In America,
the same patterns now ap|*»ar on everything from
sneakers to baseball caps and have become sym
bols of black pride.
In some ways, the popularity of kente has Iwen
a boon for Ghana. Hut these days much of the
kente is made by machines, not hand-woven
Silk thread has given way to rayon, and much of
what looks like kente isn't woven at all. hut just
copies of the patterns printed onto cheap fabrit
The story of kente — traditional and modern —
can be found in "Dress Codes. Urban Folk Fash
ions.” a new exhibit at the Smithsonian Institu
tion. Its aim is to make people think about the cul
tural history of the clothes they choose to wear
"Dress Codes" was created at the Craft and Folk
Art Museum in Los Angeles. Hut it opens first at
the Smithsonian's Experimental Gallery, a space
set up ns a sort of laboratory for exhibit creators
There, ns visitors come and go. the museum's
staff ran gauge their reactions and change the parts
of the exhibit that don't work
The Craft and Folk Art Museum focused on four
textiles often seen in I. A.: the kimono, kente cloth.
Pendleton blankets and the bandanna.
“To decode cultural signs and symbols in ( on
temporary American life we each need to look at
our own tastes and traditions, in order to compare
them with others across both time and social ton
text." said exhibit director Man ic Page of the Craft
and Folk Art Museum.
In a room where visitors can learn to knot ban
dannas, they also learn the history of the seem
ingly all-American fabric. It turns out that, like
kente, it has its origins far away — in an ancient
Indian tie-dying technique called bandhanni.
Bondhanni cotton squares first reached a wider
market in the 17th century. when the British
owned East India Co brought them bark to
Eurojre Europeans would use the squares to wipe
up their snuff stains.
In America, they quit klv Irecatne popular polit
ical mementos — with pictures of presidents and
i ampaign slogans printed on the fabric The first
known political bandanna dates track to 1775. and
shows George Washington on horseback
The kimono, too, has wandered far from its
roots In America, it's more often thought of as a
bathrobe than ns ceremonial dress But there are
specific meanings behind each i olor, fabric and
pattern of traditional Japanese kimonos
According to tradition, for instance, young
women can wear rosy hues while older women
especially married ones — are expected to wear
colors and patterns that are det idedlv more sub
dued.
Western reinterpretations of the kimono have
also made it loose, billowing and unrestrii toe But
in |apan, the exhibit explains, kimonos can be sti
fling and restrictive, fori mg the wearers to sit rum
rod straight and yvalk slowly
The exhibit also describes how colorful Pondle
ton blankets were first designed to trade with
Native Americans for their furs The Native Airier
u ans liked them so mm h, the exhibit explains,
that they incorporated the blankets into iheir own
cultures
"Dress Codes'' is full of activities — from a
dress-up area where people can try on i lathes and
then check themselves out in large mirrors to a
loom where they can experiment yvith weaving
It will remain in the Experimental Gallery
through Jan. 30.
Canadian ban affects Detroit paper 1
DETROIT (AP) — A Canadian
ban on coverage of a sensation
al torture-murder case prompted
at least three Canadian distribu
tors to refuse to sell The Detroit
News and Free Press, which car
ried a front-page story on the
case.
"It'll be suicide to sell it," said
Tim Quinn of Lake Ontario Dis
tributors, one of the indepen
dent Ontario-based distributors
who refused to sell the Sunday
edition of the News.
Detroit Newspapers, which
oversees operations of The
Detroit News and Free Press.
said it sent papers over the bor
der without trouble. Canadian
distributors refused to sell them
or removed the front section to
avoid arrest, the News reported
today.
The case involves a couple
accused of kidnapping teen-age
girls, performing sex acts and
then torturing and killing them.
The wife has pleaded guilty to
manslaughter in a plea bargain.
Ontario Justice Francis
Kovacs has blocked the public
and foreign media from his
courtroom in St. Catharines,
Ontario, just west of Niagara
Falls, N.Y., under a law that
allows judges to order a virtual
blackout on trial coverage in an
attempt to ensure a fair trial He
also has restricted the coverage
of Canadian journalists.
The ,Vcv»s carried a Washing
ton Post story on Karla Hoinol
ka's case and the upcoming
murder trial of her husband,
Paul Teale. 29. The story was
based on interviews with people
knowledgeable about what was
said in court and on limited
press reports.
A Canadian edition of The
Buffalo Nows didn't contain the
Washington Post story, editor
Murray Light said, but many
Canadians went to Buffalo to
buy the U S. edition with the
article.
It was the same story in the
Detroit area "All these cars with
Ontario platus wuro out there
when 1 pulled up this morning,
waiting for me to open the door
because of the article," said
sales clerk Deborah Willis at
Mi [lender Center Pharmacy near
the Detroit-Windsor tunnel.
Some Canadians trying to take
the papers back home were
stopped by police at the border
"This media ban is a joke,"
Kevin Hodges of St. Catharines.
Ontario. said after he »ns held
for 40 minutes and forced to
hand over three copies of the
Buffalo lVeu s
ilomolka. 23, was sentenced
last summer to J2 years in
prison on two counts of
manslaughter lor her role in the
deaths of two teen age girls Her
husband awaits trial on first
degree murder charges in the
slayings and on other charges,
including the rapes of 17 other
women.
Homolka has Tiled for divorce
and is expected to testify against
her husband. As port of her plea
bargain, prosecutors read a long
statement of facts agreed to by
the defense, but the litany of
rapes and tortures can't be pub
lished until after a verdict in
Teule's case, the judge ruled.
Christina Bradford, managing
editor at The Detroit News, said
tile case was of interest because
of Detroit's proximity to Canada
About 24,000 copies of the Sun
day edition, which combines
reports from Detroit's two major
newspapers, are sold each week
in Ontario.
“To deprive our readers of a
story to satisfy the Canadian
government's luws does not
make sense," she said.
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THE UNIVERSITY FLORIST
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Owner* are li of O alumni
JL
I
A life turned around,
then ended for a coat
NKYV YORK (API — Arlyn Gonzalez ond Alex Ortiz were
walking home from the movies, talking about the baity girl they
would be having in two months, when two muggers jumped
them.
Gonzalez didn’t resist as one mugger pulled at her shearling
jacket. The other mugger went for Ortiz's leather jacket. He
fought the assailant, Gon
zalez recalled tearfully
Sunday
"Ho said, 'Don't hurt her.
She's pregnant.' " she said.
The next thing Gonzalez
heard was two gunshots
that struck Ortiz in the
throat and chest. A third
bullet whizzed over her
head. Ortiz died early Sat
urday — his 22nd birthday
‘He was telling me
he was scared to
die, and to take
care of the baby/
Arlyn Gonzalez,
victim s girlfriend
— at .1 hospital
The muggers jumped in a i ar with Gonzalez's jacket No sus
pects hud been arrested by early today
i-.von with a bullet in his throat. Ortiz had parting words for
Ins girlfriend
"He was telling me he was scared to die, and to take care of
the baby," Gonzalez said.
Ortiz was turning Ins troubled past into a fruitful future,
Gonzalez. i'\. ret.ailed as she sat in the two-room basement
apartment they had shared in the New York City borough of
Queens
A high school dropout, Ortiz served time itt jail for drug pos
session He got out shortly I si fore he met Gonzalez last year. He
was studying business administration and computer program
ming m college.
To give Gonzalez exerc ise, they decided to walk the mile
back home Friday night after going out to dinner and a movie.
Then, as they talked about their future. Ortiz's ended, in
front of a car-rental lot on a wide, barren boulevard.
Gonzalez said she'll toll their daughter "that he died lor her
that he loved her even before she was horn."
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