Leather—definitely dramatic, and
so protective (below). From Spe
ciale Mode, the bi-color collar au
tomatically changes the look of the
jacket for multi combinations
( S180); the jeans-cut leather pants
(S140) promise long fashion life
and warm legs.
strings, grommets and studs lend a more
hardware feeling for fall 83, with industrial
looks emphasising the casual side of life more
than ever.
In women's fashion the limitations of the
imagination might better define the range of
kxtks: fantasy denims are not so well-priced,
but the originality of design and silhouette
promise a look that wears over several sea
sons. Jackets and vests figure in better-than
From the Lein’s Movin’ On division
of the great Levi-Strauss (left & be
low), corduroy gets contrast color
treatments for cold weather out
ings. (Jacket, $40; shirt, $28; pants,
$30; sweattop, $15; bottoms, $12.)
— is smart. Waiting for a sale might mean
going without the best choice, and second
choice is no bargain either. The sale racks are
full of just those items no one else wanted, so
unless you are the trendiest fashion absurdist,
sales are just not meant for you.
The best insulation against those first indi
cations of cold weather is well-known: layer
ing. It isn’t a question of a wind-proof or im
permeable fabric. Layers between tee-shirts,
cardigan and finally a jacket form air pockets
that retain body heat. But here is the secret: a
balance between indoor and outdoor layering
for ultimate comfort in warm lecture halls or
the chill of the weather requires thin layers
against the skin, and then thicker garments
over these for temperature versatility. Is this
purchase an item that is easily removed once
indoors? For this quandary, two tee-shirts, or
a turtleneck and polo shirt combination, are
ideal. Sweaters and jackets easily layer on top,
and these should be easily donned and doffed
for ultimate comfort.
Color makes its biggest statement with the
layering ability of winter wear: stripes can
double up. Wide and narrow combinations
offered with cotton twill details and snaps
take on winter with a flourish of colorful
brights against gray. Patcnworked color either
works in panels or in the detail of contrast
yoke and sleeves. The brights combine well
with gray, ochre or black for a cheery' look in
spite of winter’s doldrums.
Women’s sweaters capture the novelty' look
(not merely trendy, this is a fashion favorite, a
collectible meant to be enjoyed for as long as
the knit holds up) by use of wildlife inspira
tions. Fantasy animal fur patterns and culti
vated fur details (certainly not any en
dangered species here), extra texture, and
more subtle blends of color combine for a
fresh palette in knits for fall.
Corduroy inspires its own soft-to-the-touch
trend, offering a new combination for fall.
The corduroy is not cut into ridges, remain
Warm sophistication in heathery
wool melton by For Members Only
(below left): a quilted detail on the
cotton jersey “sweat” ( $100) com
bines camel and gray for fall. Twill
pants ( $80) remain casual, yet “in
dustrial” with grommet and stud
detailing. Denims for women are
not new, but from Guess? they're
anything but ordinary: jeans offer
two different faded indigo sides
($55). The big shirt ($56) in twill
cotton fits under the denim jacket
($98).
ing velvety all over. The result is a cross be
tween velveteen and suede, soft and fuzzy, re
ferred to mostly as moleskin. The advantages
of this new, less' refined uncut corduroy is a
luxury look that wears well in a casual,
campus setting.
Leather is more important than ever, and is
the one impermeable that can take a winter
beating with a vengeance, provided the care
instructions are carefully followed. Rich color
combines with black or gray for a high profile
fashion statement. Leather pants cut just like
regular jeans have fashion longevity beyond
next season.
Snaps, oversized zipper details, draw
The plaid pattern is knitted right in
the heathery> knit from French Con
nection (above, $50). Quilted un
bleached cotton makes a practical
choice in contemporary vest fash
ion ( $70). Moleskin pants by Skeets
($40). Quilting and natural cot
tons go together in the women’s
fashions, where Freego uses pre
laundered cotton in their canvas
contrast jacket and jeans (jacket,
$84; pants, $47; shirt, $40).
AMPERSAND
Sept. /Oct. 83, page 23
Merotia Sport turtleneck ($29)
under polo shirt (above, $44)
with corduroy (pants, $46). For
men, a tee-shirt under a rag wool
sweater (Fresh Squeeze, $23 and
$60) goes one step further: the tee
shirt has a contrast cotton sheet
ing yoke, detailed with snaps.
Pants and varsity sweater also
by Fresh Squeeze ( $27 and $78).
ever styling, with not a traditional vest or
blazer in sight. Signature of the season is
the shape: loosened over tight. The “big"
shirt is seen over slim, well-fitted pants, to
dominate the current fall '83 looks.