. .weekly .
emerald sports
Wednesday, May 6,1981
Hanging on the rocks
Climbers reach
for hand-holds
on way to top
(with aid of classes)
It was hot. The sun shone mercilessly hot on the
sheer rock as he made his way slowly up the moun
tain’s face. Sweat flowed from his forehead as he
strained to reach the next hand-hold. The summit was
only a few feet away.
Why bother, people ask?
‘‘Because it’s a challenge,” says rock-climbing
enthusiast Jeff Hartley. ‘‘The exhilaration one
achieves while hanging on the face of a cliff is
awe-inspiring.”
“It provides an opportunity to get away from city
life and be in the outdoors,” says Keith Nelson of the
Outdoor Program. "It can also be a chance to share
with friends and meet new friends.”
Whatever the motivation, the opportunities for
rock climbers in the Eugene area are excellent.
Numerous programs exist to aid everyone from the
rookie to the seasoned climber. One program for
University students involves the Outdoor Pursuits
classes offered by the P.E. department.
"You really have to learn some basic backpack
ing skills and navigation skills before you’re going to
be able to get into mountaineering, per se," cautions
Jim Blanchard, coordinator of the University’s Adven
ture-Pursuits program. "We encourage that here, and
in fact require that students take one of our gener
alized courses before they take rock climbing.”
The prerequisite to all Outdoor Pursuits classes is
the Wilderness/Ethics/Safety class. The University
also offers preparatory backpacking and mountain
eering classes that lead to the more advanced
courses.
"We have a complete set of classes that assume
nothing at the start and work you all the way through
the progression to very advanced levels of mountain
eering,” Blanchard says. "There are, of course, less
structured opportunities available through the
Outdoor Program.”
The Outdoor Program uses an informal, cooper
ative format to assist in planning outdoor activities. By
simply signing a trip sheet at the program's office in
the EMU basement, anyone can use the Outdoor
Program to organize an outing, usually in a matter of
days.
"A lot of people new to the area come in,” Nelson
says. “They have a chance to meet people with
common interests.”
Another program is offered through the Eugene
Parks and Recreation Department. According to its
outdoor program supervisor, Chuck Solin, the
department offers several courses dealing with rock
and mountain climbing, especially during the summer
"We have beginning rock climbing classes, plus
some three- and four-day schools," Solin says. "One
example is Memorial Mountaineering, which will
happen over Memorial Day weekend.
“Then this summer we’ll do a whole series,
starting from the complete entry-level-type programs,
which would be beginning backpacking classes, clear
through climbing the North Sister, and intermediate
rock climbing classes."
Those classes will include three local beginning
rock climbing courses and two at Smith Rock State
Park, as well as ice and snow climbing and
instructional workshops.
Other programs include those offered by the
Obsidians, a local mountaineering club, and by Pacific
Northwest Outward Bound, based in Portland.
The costs for programs like these are not
Diane Lainzis, a participant in the University outdoor program, scales a nearby precipice.
prohibitive.
The P.E. department charges a $13-15 fee for
mountaineering courses, which include transporta
tion and some equipment. For rock climbers, a $5 fee
will provide most of the needed equipment. Rentals
usually make up the difference
"Even if someone has to rent ice axes and cram
pons, the total cost shouldn't exceed about $25,”
Blanchard says.
The Parks and Recreation Department offers a
similar picture. Although a four-day climb may run in
the $50 range, most costs run "anywhere from $1 for
the big wall-climbing slide show to $34 for an inter
mediate rock climbing class," Solin says
The Outdoor Program does not rent its own
equipment, but with intelligent shopping, climbers are
often able to get what they need at a reasonable cost.
“Equipment is important," Nelson says. "It takes
time to find what's good for you. Start slow, buy as you
need and make sure it will fit your needs."
Along with the large number of programs availa
ble to climbing enthusiasts, Eugene is close to several
good climbing prospects.
"The columns at Skinner’s Butte are probably one
of the best training areas for rock climbers on the West
Coast, as far as being right in the middle of the city,"
says Solin "And Smith Rock State Park (near Red
mond in the Crooked River Gorge) is probably the
premier rock climbing area in all of Oregon It’s real
popular.”
The popularity of rock climbing and mountain
eering has leveled off slightly since its peak in the early
1970s, but interest remains high. According to Blan
chard, the key is quality, not quantity.
“I personally think I've got the best bunch of
students on campus," Blanchard says “For moun
taineering classes in particular, you tend to get bright,
aggressive, inner-directed, self-motivated students.”
By Jim Lund
Photo by Jim Blanchard