Mysteries Revealed
At Paris Showings
i Editor's note—Miss Hollands,
Who worked on the Emerald last
year, is now attending the Sor
bonne in Paris. She has sent us
her first hand impressions of the
Paris fashion show.
By Barbara Hollands
The smart Avenue Matignon in
Paris teems with models and pho
tographers, buyers and artists—
the French fashion industry has
yawned and stirred and become en
; thusiastically active. It is the time
of the annual showing of the fall
“collections,” and the designer is
top man.
It is now that he makes known,
behind closed doors and to selected
audiences, just what steps the
fashionable woman of the western
world will take with regard to her
hemline, her neckline, her waist
line. He reveals the mysteries of
Inew coiffures (this year, the very
short, jagged cut); he proclaims
whether shoulders must slope or
widen.
This is all of great importance
to the fashionable woman — else
how would she know how to be
fashionable ?
Admission to these showings is
by invitation only, and the guest is
greeted at the door by a formidable
battery of personnel who scrutinize
the card of admittance and occa
sionally one’s passport, write U.S.
and Paris addresses in big black
books, and summon attendants to
show the way up impressive stair
cases.
These attendants are evidently
instructed to iet their garb betray
none of the secrets to come, be
cause although dressed uniformly,
they are dowdy, untidy, and defi
nitely un-chic. Perhaps they are
the poor relations of someone of in
fluence.
CLOTHES “INFORMALLY”
SHOWN
Comfortable chairs and sofas are
placed informally around the room
where the showing takes place—
a thick-carpeted, high-ceilinged,
mirrored “salon” done in an expen
sive shade of green, with a row of
French windows opening onto a
fashionable tree-lined boulevard.
In October the American buyers
and fashion experts who flock to
the August and September show
ings have been replaced by the
wealthy Parisians. The rooms are
filled with elegant, sabled ladies
and the scent of French perfume.
Directly across the carpeted ex
|T Panse where the models will par
ade, one sees a complacent white
poodle, snoozing comfortably under
a gold-gilt chair. The eye catches
the row of the new “naked” shoes;
the nylon-shod legs, well displayed
beneath the short, short skirts—
(Christian Dior, the creator of the
“New Look,” has reversed his
trend and is helping to introduce
the just-below-the-knee hemline);
an occasional diamond ankle brace
let, glittering icily.
THE SHOW BEGINS
There is a sudden hush and the
first of the pretty, expressionless
models swishes into the room,
clothed in a true “Paris original.”
The dress she wears, and those
which follow, are reminiscent of
mother’s photograph album. The
tiny, belted waists; huge, pointed,
stand-up collars; short, very tight,
narrow skirts; sloping shoulders,
are all revivals of the styles of
another era, as is the introduction
of the short evening dress. Neck
lines plunge to the. •Ovaist; buttons
are everywhere.
Jacques Fath is showing a new
fur-trimmed, three-quarter length
sleeve in coats and suits. Christian
Dior has created an interesting, if
somewhat impractical box-like col
lar, which attains the impressive
height of twelve inches. It gives
the wearer a somewhat submerged
look, and doesn’t appear to be very
conducive to conversation.
Marcel Rochas emphasizes the
new hemline by his use of draped
and looped materials. Madame
Schiaparelli achieves some start
ling effects with unusual color
combinations—orange and purple,
for example. Her suit of red leath
er, brown tweed, and orange wool
is very startling indeed.
ACCESSORIES EMPHASIZED
Accessories are important every
year. This fall the emphasis is on
muffs, long gloves, the inevitable
knotted string of pearls and sleek,
French umbrella. (Itjains in Paris,
too). HatS are being perched on
one side of the head, with one long,
dangling earring to balance the
effect. Leather belts go with every
thing, even cocktail dresses and
formals.
One of the most impressive “ac
cessories” being shown this fall is
Dior’s sable coat with lining to
match the dress worn beneath it.
Jacques Fath has improved on this
idea, making it a bit more practi
cal by producing button-in linings.
This means that the coat may be
worn with more than one outfit,
which is nice any way you look
at it.
The entrance of the veiled model
in the heavy satin wedding dress
signifies the end of the day’s show
ing, even before the moderator an
nounces briskly, “La collection est
terminee.”
The fashionable woman has the
scoop.
Let’s Qo Shopping
By Nonna Hultgren
I Cold damp weather seems to
have come to stay—at least for a
while. And with the cold weather
comes the problem of how to keep
those hands you love to touch. All
the soap diets and cocktails will
do no good if the hands are not
protected properly. This is not a
bad problem, though, since there
are so many gay and colorful mit
Itens on the market.
Conservative mittens—plain sol
id color—come in various colors,
and range in price from $1.50 to
about $4. For a little more extrava
gance there are mittens with a
wide cable (stitch, that is) down
the top. These also can be bought
to match any colored coat for
about $4.50.
ORIGINAL, MITTENS
That rally rally (!) look comes
with a pair of bright yellow mit
tens with an equally bright green
stripe at the bottom. How patri
otic can we get ? ?
An original idea for mittens is
the pair (in various bright colors) J
with a small yarn doll on each
mitten. These are about $5. Mit
tens also come with yarn flowers
on the top—priced at about $4.
Bright plaid wool mittens are
very attractive for the ski hill and
for street wear. They are wool
lined for that extra warmth.
The ever popular string gloves
are still going strong. Although
they do not give as much warmth
as a pair of wool mittens, they
di ess up an outfit greatly. The
newest, latest string gloves are in
fall colors of orange, tan, navy
blue, brown, tile red, and beige—
and can be purchased for SI.65 to
$4.
Fluffy angora gloves are also
popular this year. They can be ob
tained in almost any color, the
darker colors being more practi
cal, for $3.50.
The kid glove will always be
good both for style and warmth.
They range in price from $4.50 to
$8.
Stolen
Stuff
By Vorn Stolen
Night follows day . . . finals
follow midterms . . . and one
weekend floats hack to the sur
face in time to fall in behind
the other ... so let’s be binging
off ...
Many are the sad and disap
pointed of heart who sat by to
watch the plutocrats' pack off to
the strains of “California, Here
We Come’’ . . . Canasta decks
and the ever-present radio offer
dull companions to the pooped
out of the party-party crowd.
PiKPhi Bill St. Ilillare wandered
cross the campus last week to re
turn minus his pin . . . ADPi fresh
man Shirley Crabb was the gal on
the receiving end . . . Tau Gay
Baldwin found his way down from
18th to drop his Maltese in the
way of USC Theta transfer Anne
Craig . . .
Darn embarrasing to be asked
to pay off a debt while you are
trying to impress someone in the
Side . . . just ask the man who
knows, SAE Jack Young . . .
Things seem to be “Quite con
genial” for that ChiO-Theta Chi
foursome, Jo Abel and Bob Not
tingham and Barbara Person and
Bob Gilbert . . . sorta like to point
out to Fee Janet Hill that the Uni
versity has a fee for transcripting
grades . . . but then, Phi OOpsilons
might have that certain pull that
makes Washington so attractive...
Bleak weekend ahead for the
three Gamma Phis who lost out
over the magnetic pull of the Cal
trip . . . when three FeeGees want
to make the trip, the dates are
sort of left playing second fiddle...
Fall term tolls unhurriedly by
for two Kappas, for whom this
term will be as single women . . .
a final week wedding has been
scheduled for Jane Hull and Dick
Wilkins, while December 21 will be
the date of the knot-tying of Sally
Sealey and ChiPsi Bill Flynn . . .
SPE seem to be keeping the old
Millrace contacts up while they
serve their term in the dorms . . .
round the Alpha Phi house enni
way . . . Joyce Fendlater and Jim
Gilbertson seem to have things
under control, while Mel “Mousey”
Leighton and Starly “Toddy Lue”
Sparks have at least changed nick
names . . .
Sig Bob Reinhart is heading for
the stocks after his pinning of
DeeGee transfer from OSC Mary
Jane Hathaway . . . Chi Psi Ron
Gillis has finally decided which side
of Hilyard should hold his interest
. . . Gamma Phi pledge Susie Mc
Dougal now wears the jools in
volved.
AlfaGam Pat White has pro
vided a topic o f conversation
around the house, with her engage
ment ring compliments of Lambda
Chi Bob Nelson . . . Beeg thril for
Hen Hall’s Bonnie Gienger will be
the visitor from home seeing her
this weekend . . .
Well, here’s to those dull and
dense who will be on hand to greet
the Cal crowd Sunday night
'Martha' Auditions
Listed for Nov. 22
Auditions for the opera "Mar
tha ’ will be held at 4 p.m. Nov.
22 in the School of Music auditori
um. Anyone may try out for a
part.
Five performances of the opera
will be given in the ne.w theater
west of Villard Hall in April. A11
work on "Martha” will be done in
conjunction with an opera work
shop beginning next week.
Students are needed to play the
roles of Lady Harriet, lyric sopra
no; Nancy, mezzo or alto; Lionel,
lyric tenor; Plunkett, baritone or
bass baritone; and Sir Tristam,
bass buffo.
Oregon Daily 7
■fEMERALD
Women’s Page
Amphibians Plan Pageant;
Qirls IM Playoffs Soon
“Western Melodies" has been
revealed as the theme of this year's
water pageant presented by Am
phibian, women’s swimming hon
orary.
Approximately forty members
and pledges will swim in this an
nual event which will take place at
eight o'clock next Wednesday and
Thursday night in the Men’s pool.
Chairman of the activity is Joan
Carr, who is also president of Am
phibian. Tickets are 50c each and
can be purchased at the Co-op,
Women's Physical Education of
fice, at the door at the night of
performances, or from any member
of Amphibian.
Today approximately twenty
eight members of the Evergreen
and Cascade hockey teams are
competing in the Northwest Field
Hockey tournament at Corvallis.
Represented in the tournament
will be teams from about fifteen
Home Waves
T akeMinimum
Time, Money
On one of those rare weekends
when you manage to get home
maybe mom and you can get to
gether and give each other home
permanents.
Probably you’ve tried them be
fore, and so undoubtedly you are
dubious as to how this next one
will result. However, home perma
nent kits have been on the market
fo a considerable length of time
now, and most of them have been
tested and improved to give the
best perfection possible.
If you are a novice at this new
technioue. don’t hr* di?rnnrafy/*/i v*,.
rumors you’ve heard of how com
plicated it is to follow a few basic
rules. Besides with mom and you
together you’re sure to triumph
with a head of beautiful curls.
There are really only three main
steps in th'e entire process. First
you roll the hair up on plastic
curlers, not forgetting to wet with
wave lotion as you go along. Then
comes a period of relaxation, when
there s a lot of time to just sit and
think while your curls are being
set. To be sure of the correct tim
ing in this step, you might even
set an alarm for the specified
time.
When the alarm jangles it’s time
to apply the neutralizing solution,
unwind the curls, rinse and set into
any new hairdo your heart desires.
Always be sure to make a test curl
first. This may not be your first
home permanent, but such factors
as health, shampoo, or over ex
posure to the sun can often change
the texture and condition of your
hair.
Here are a few reminders that
will make your tresses even pret
tier. Have your hair cut before
the permanent or at least trimmed
on the split ends. Shampoo it, too,
so there won't be the necessity of
washing it a few days after you
have the permanent.
When you are setting it, you can
use less hair per curler in some
sections according to how much
wave you want. Always remember
to saturate the curls thoroughly
with wave lotion also.
These are just a few simple in
structions and hints on how to
(Please turn to page eight)
schools in Oregon, Washington,
and Canada. Miss Woodruff is fac
ulty adviser of Hockey Club. Fran
cis Hussy is president of Cascade
team and Jessie Totten of Ever
green team.
Intramural volleyball teams are
preparing for the last round of the
tournament with the champion
ships in Leagues II, III, and IV to
be played off Monday anil Tuesday.
University House, last year’s de
fending champions, won top spot
in League I after eliminating Delta
Delta Delta 34-29 in last Wednes
day's game. Earlier in the season
they had defeated the Tri-Delts
57-18. Delta Gamma was elimina
ted Monday and Kappa Alpha
Theta, earlier last week.
Action next Tuesday will see
Rebec house and Kappa Kappa
Gamma fighting to become League
II champs. The co-op squad may bo
favored to win because of their
27-19 victory over the Kappa team
last Tuesday. Carson hall was eli
minated Tuesday when they lost
to Pi Beta Phi 47-33. Pi Phis took
their second defeat when they de
faulted to Kappa Kappa Gamma
Thursday.
Playing together for the third
time Monday will be Alpha Delta
Pi and Alpha Xi Delta in League
III. In their first meeting Alpha
Xi Delta won and in their game
last Wednesday the ADPi squad
came through on top.
In League IV, Alpha Phi, who
had lost their first game of the
season managed to fight their way
back to the top and will meet Ann
Judson for the championship on
Monday.
Winner of League V is Hen
dricks hall who downed Zeta Tau
Alpha 38-22 on Thursday. The Hen
hall squad held second honors in
last year's tournament.
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