HOBWBCTM TOWB-RBTlWir sTESDAY, ArOFST S, 1M.
American Cotton Clothes World
II-' . V n II:'-' a II m r it !' s i '"U ipni m I S."V . k.
f - - l! PROOAISS IN TeXTILiE I kT SSjjZZ--ZZZCOTTON MIU. NEW I
umm ijn a - ' s 'i sskS
feTV -':Mm$mM-, fcr tiPj ? spas? vACW '
I ... .... , ... - 1 Ysna f ij tfri iwiki&m-M
By FRANCIS H. 8ISSON,
Vie President of Guaranty Trust Com
pany of New York.
HE United States for some
time to come, as It has bi-en
doing for years, will con
tinue to supply the greater
part of the world's raw cot
ton. Cotton Is second In value of all
the crops of this country, and furnishes
approximately fifty-six per cent of the
world's total. No single competitor ap
proaches It India follows with 17 per
icent; China with 134 per cent; Egypt
and Ituiufa with 4V4 per cent, and the
'remaining 44 per cent Is made up by
I Brazil, Mexico, Peru, Turkey, Persia,
Japan and several other countries.
The United States first became iid
Important cotton producing country
toward the end of the eighteenth cen
tury. This development was sudden.
Ia 1792 the United State? exported
only 275 bales. The next year, 170.1.
hi which Ell Whitney Invented the cot
ton gin and revolutionized the Indus
try, Is the most Important In the his
tory of cotton growing In the United
States. The acreage Increased enor
mously. The volume of exports lenped
overnight. New England became a
cotton goods manufacturing center.
Iron works and coal mines were aban
doned aDd men turned their energies
from the culture of corn, rice, and
Indigo largely to the raising of cotton.
The Civil War and the freeing of Hie
slaves held np production only tempo
rarily. In 1014, the banner year, the
crop reached the tremendous total of
(MJSUSO bales, of Ave hundred
'pounds each. There are now 84,000,
WO seres devoted to cotton, a seven
teen fold Increase since 1839, when the
Irtt statistics were compiled.
A little spinning had been done here
In the seventeenth century, but In
1787-88 the first regular factory, locat
ed In Beverly, Mats., was put Into
operation by a group beaded by John
Cabot and Joshua Fisher. This fac
tory failed chiefly because., of the
crudeness of the machinery. But Sam
uel Sluter, newly come from England
with models of the Arkwright machin
ery In his brain, set up a factory In
Pawtucket In 1700. From that time
forth the growth waa steady and sure.
In manufacturing, however, we have
not led, though Europe has drawn on
us largely for the raw material. In
1910 American cotton mide up almost
exactly three-quarters of the whole
amount Imported Into Great Britain.
The other countries of Europe have
also developed a splunlng Industry by
no means Inconsiderable and Ameri
can cotton Is sent to almost all those
European countries which spin and
weave.
British supremacy In cotton manu
facturing has never been truly chal
lenged, but there has been an appre
ciable growth In several other coun
tries, and In Germany and Japan, at
least, the recent development has been
little short of phenomenal.
It has been In the South that the
growth of the American cotton manu
facturing Industry In the last few de
codes has been most phenomenal. In
I860 there were 824,052 spindles In the
cotton growing states, compared with
8,(W2.087 In New England. In 1917.
the figures were: Northern States
19,835,082 spindles devoted to cotton
spinning exclusively; Southern States,
14,292,918 spindles.
About 1880 the southerner first saw
his opportunity In manufacturing his
own cotton. Then ho was consuming
only 18S.748 bales, while New England
took 1.129.498. In ten years he was
utilizing more than half a million bales,
while New England had Just passed
the million and half mm::. In 1905
the South consumed 2,140.151 bales,
A TYPICAL
SOUTHERN COTTON
FICLD COTTON
RANKS SeCONO IN v
IMPORTANC C OF
AMERICAN AGRICULTURAL A
COTTON B4LF6 AVbMITINa EXPORT ON A SAVANNAH WHARF
AMERICA fURHISHES FIFTY-SIX PERCENT OF THE IWU' COTTON.
while- New England had climbed to
only 1,753,282. However, as competi
tion with the South Increased, New
Englund following the earlier lead of
Old England, has tended always to
produce a liner and finer quality of
cloth, leaving the coarser grades of
sheeting, drills and ducks to the South
ern mills.
At any stage of the Industry, cot
ton represents a large part of the na
tion's wealth. There are two very
clearly marked stages In the process
of financing. The first has to do with
the row cotton, as It goes from planter
to mill. The second has to do with
the journey from mill to consumer.
The first Is usually called the raw
cotton market and the second the
cloth market The planter begins his
work early lb the spring. His crop Is
dependent upon his ability to pay for
tools and machinery and his owu ex
penses. Small planters must borrow
money with the growing crop as a
basis. They may borrow from the
country merchant Credit here Is
through the Mchnrge account" system,
whereby the merchant supplies the
planter's wants by giving credit to bis
farm hands. When the picking season
begins the merchant may take the col
ton, crediting the grower at trie mar
ket price. The cotton Is sold to local
buyers or occasionally to shippers or
exporters. In the case of the larger
plantations or groups of plantations,
operated by syndicates or corpora
tions, the cotton Is frequently shipped
direct to the mill or more often to a
warehouse. The larger producers. In
stead of getting their credit from the
local stores, as their tenant farmers
do, are financed either by their bank
or by their buyers, who in turn are
financed by their bankera.
The lnrge cotton buyers purchase
for the account of the mills for ex
porters or for clients ulirouil. They
are usually firms of strong financial
standiug, and they are bankers of fuc-
tors themselves, flouncing growers or
small buyers during the growing of
the crop and the first concentration of
the cotton. But when the large move
ment of cotton Is on It Is frequently
necessary that they, like the local
banks, must be financed In order that
they may execute their orders or, as
is frequently the case, accept cotton
sent to them on consignment
Until recently warehousing In Its re
lations to the textile trade bad not
been developed to the extent which
might have been expected. Modern
warehouses of approved type, however,
with all requisite facilities will soon
be established.
The cotton merchants hnve estab
lished great common markets where
they nihy meet and enter Into transac
tions with each other and the whole
world, which are necessary to bring
the cotton Into the channels of com
merce and keep It moving to Its multi
tudinous destinations. These mnrkets
ure In addition to the numerous local
markets where the preliminary con
centration takes place, and to some
extent they are subsidiary to the lat
ter, where the cotton of the actual
quantity and quality they are seeking
Is to be had In the first Instance Yet
it Is the great markets which establish
the prices.
These great cotton markets are
those of New York and New Orleans,
In the United States; Liverpool, In
England ; Bremen, In Germany ; Havre,
In France; Alexandria, In EgypL and
Bombay, In India.
The output of the manufacturer
finds Its way to the ultimata consumer
through a variety of chunnels. What
these are will depend upon how the
various mills are organized, and their
resjiectlve policies as to the marketing
of their products. Some mills, usually
very large organizations, will have
plants completely equipped, In every
department, spinning, weaving, dyeing,
printing, finishing, etc., and will process
all of their goods themselves In every
detail, offering them on the market In
their finished form.
Then there are a great number of
cotton mills, many of them of very
lurge alze, which do no weaving at all,
but confine themselves to spinning,
finding a market for their yarns with
tn many weaving mills which hart no
spinning plants.
Numerous milla. both large and
small, manufacturing, . principally,
goods of staple grade, which may
either be of floe or coarse character,
sell their entire product in the gray,
or unfinished state,
A anhfttanHal Hurt of the OUtD!t of
the mills (but nothing like that of for
mer venrs and It grows relatively
.mailer ever vear) la disposea ot Oh
(. rectly to dry goods Jobbing houses and j
,Dy them to reran ueuicia, wuw ' j
by the yard to in consumer. ur-j
rtier enormous yardage passes sven-
tually through the cutting houses,
which manufacture garments of every ,
kind, from overalls to pajamas or from '
raincoats to shirts, and dispose of
their products to distributors, who
eventually sell them to the public.
Then there are retailers whose re
quirements for goods of particular
Irinita BM art considerable that their
r sufficient magnitude to
warrant the mills In dealing with them
direct
iit,M am the oreat mall or
der bouses, with a gigantic annual.
turnover, whose cataloguea go 10 everj .
part of the land, and which handle!
nnantitioa nf niece gooda, as
well as made-up garments, and whose:
custom is esgerly sought for. In ad-1
i.t ihMa and other domestic;
outlets, a great quantity of goods Is
produced for export Such goods are
handled through houses speclslly or
ganized for that trade.
nf the cloth market
again Illustrates the economic lnipor
e hnnblnr service. The mill
frequently pays cash for Its raw stock,!
or else buys upon snort term noiea..
The average mill does not hnve a
Mnitni inrvA enoueh to enable
It to tie up the thousands of dollars
necessary for sucn a proceeuing, mm
n.aii a the funds which must con
stantly be paid out for wages, for op-j
eration expenses of an kinas, ior up-
keep, and all other overhead. Mills,
a martar nf fnct. are frequent bor-!
rowers, either from general banka, or;
from textile banks or factors, or rroin
tiioir aelllnz aients. who combine their !
primary and original function of sell
ing with that of supplying nnauciai
assistance.
Despite the very remarkable growth
which had taken place between 1910
and 1918, the United States ranaea
fifth among the nations exporting cot
ton goods. .
Until recently, the banking facilities ,
abroad were Insufficient to the needs
m-ain, mmiwnw' and shinning .
facilities, In pre-war days, were not j
such as to make regular snipmenis pos
sible to many foreign markets.
The war served to disarrange the ays-1
tern of cotton cloth distribution of the;
whole world. While In 1913 our total ;
vfwirta nf cotton goods amounted to
about 445,000,000 yards. In 1017 the,
figure was about (WO.OOO.OOO yards, an
Increase or nny-nve per cent, me
Increase, moreover, had been In the
colored cottons, the uncolored cloths
showing an actual decrease. , i
Aur huat and ir.nr r.prr,',A i',r, t mnr.
kets are probably to be found. In snrh
countries as (.-una, aiexiro, tne i-niup-,
nlnna and fVntrnl and Rntilh America.
and, to a certnln extent, Canada and
Australia, and parts of Asia and
Africa.
German Ships on
Way to New York
r (By Associated Press.)
WAi3,,,,N"uiu.N, auk. 1. rour of
the Ave German warships allocated
to the United States for experiment
al Purposes were in the thick of the
BRhtlng at the battle ot Jutland, ac
cording to naval intelligence records
here. The vessels are due at New
lork from Brest, France, this week,
and under a clause of the peace
treaty they must me destroyed with
in "an V. :.r after thr arrival.
The light cruiser Frankfort, now
a wreck in machinery and being
toed to the United States by the
transport Hancock, was the first ship
in the German battle line when It
collided with the IlritlBh grand fleet,
while the 22,000-ton dreadnought
ustfriesland was the ninth ship In
he line, immediately In the rear of
the flagship of the German comman-Her-ln-chief,
Admiral Scheer.
Of the three destroyers, all of
which are being towed over as a re
wit of their submersion with iho
Wm.m fleet at Scapa Flow, the G
JM and the V-43 were In the fore
foot of the fighting throughout the
MOTHER!
"California Syrup of Figs"
Child's Best Laxative
ii i
Jutlund engagement.
Leading a division of four scout
cruisers that bore the brunt of the
British fire at the opening of the
engagement, the Frankfurt, flagship
of Rear Admiral Brodicker. was hit
four times, but with a small caliber
' shell in each instance and stayed in
the fiKht to the finish. The third
'cruiser behind her was sunk at the
'opening of the engagement. The
Frankfurt, which has a speed of 28
.knots. Is believed to have pnrtlci
I pated also in raids on theh Britixh
. coast.
' Although she was well up in line
and her 12-inch guns worked thru
out contact with the British fleet,
the dreadnaught Ostfriesland, flag
ship of Vice Admiral Schmidt, com
manding battle squadron No. 1, es
caped without a major blow, so far
as naval records here disclose, but
, was damaged later by hitting a mine
pated the withdrawal to YYIlhelms
haven. Of the two destroyers, the G-102
, was with the scouting forces, close
to the Frankfurt, at the opening of
i the battle. She took part In the de
'. Btroyer attack on the British battle
cruiser divisions at 4:30 p. m., and
later In the general engagement
with British destroyers sent out to
cover the battle cruisers. The V-41
also was In the thick of the fight and
was included in the flotilla that
launched the destroyer attack und'T
cover of which the German fleet be
gan Its withdrawal. The third de
stroyer In the group, the S-122, Is
believed to have been completed ar
the close of the war.
I The warships will be opened to
public Inspection shortly after their
arrival at New York and the navy
! department now is considering
plans to send them to other ports. As
only the Ostfriesland Is able to pro-
reed under her own power, however,
'she may hhe only one of the
i group sent on an exhibition tour. The
thre.e destroyers are scheduled to go
to Norfolk In two weeks.
During the trans-Atlantic trip Cap
tain Julius F. Hellweg. United States
navy, is 111 uibi fic wi iiic ii""
arrant "--u, .
oiiIt i . """ria syrup or ng
ea for the name California
S5?"d.U h"la ,h best and
t0B,.i, ? phy,ic for the ""le
lMt. fr,',' f nd h0W'''- Children
.: tast- Full directions
jJ'ootUe. You must gay "Call-
Draft Evader Is
Being Sought Here
Police officers In the state of Ore
gon have been notified to be on the
lookout for Orover Cleveland Berg
doll, millionaire fugitive draft evad
or whn waa rennrteH seen last at
Kent Washlnetnn. In a Hudson
super six automobile. Bergdoll. while
nnder sentence for evasion of the
Craft, escaped from military guard.
A reward of (2000 for his capture
has been offered by attorneys who.
it Is said, arranged with naval au
thorities for Bergdoll to go with a
military guard to dig up 1150,000
which he said he had hidden in the
vicinity of his home In Philadelphia.
It was while he waa on the project
that he escaped. Bergdoll has two
scars on the side of his face, has
brown hair and eyes, and Is 27 years
of age. He also has a yellow streak
a foot wide up his back, according
to American Legion members, who
are assisting in the search for the
nrch slacker.
o7
Fire-water Is
Enroute to Oregon
Is On Visit
Dr. Lucetta Smith is on her way
to Michigan, where sho will spend a
month or six weeks visiting with
relatives at her old home.
Here Kmm tJi-eon
Mrs. A. Wilson and Mrs. W. F.
Davis rpent yesterday In this city at
tending to business matters. They
returned home on the evening train.
Local motoriBts who have been
busily engaged during the past
month in mixing moth balls and
ether In their last gallon of gas will
be overjoyed at the news which ar
rived here today to the effect that 25
gasoline tank cars are now enroute
to Portland and other valley points
in western Oregon from Tulsa, Okla
homa. The special train passed El
Paso, Texas, several days ago and is
due to arrive In this state in the near
future. Cars will be dropped off the
train all along the line and it is
thought that Roseburg will be one of
the main distributing centers In the
state.
Another special train of tank cars
will follow in a few days. Southern
Pacific traffic officials have been in
formed.
At outer state points the supply of
gas is becoming more plentiful and
with Increased allotments this month
to pleasure cars the stress Is becom
ing less acute. IJemand of motor
trucks and other essential Industries
are supplied up to 100 per cent.
VMt In Asliluiid
Mrs. D. N. Gllmore, of this city,
left on the evening train yesterday
for Ashland, where she will visit
with relatives and friends for a short
time.
VMtl From Wilbur
Mrs. John Mcl'lanahan. of Wilbur,
who has been visiting Mrs. A. J. Wulf
in this city, left ibis morning for her
home. Mrs. Wulf accompanied Mrs.
McClanahun to Wilbur for a visit.
KltiEXK NEXT MKKTI.Ntl
PLACE.
Owing to the fact that the
American Legion slate conveu-
tion recently held In Asturia Be- 4
lected Kllgene as the meeting
! place for 11(21, Uiupqua post of
I Douglas county will no kubt
! send a very large delegation to
that place. The members of the
local post will hold their next
meeting in September, at which
time the report of the three
4 delegates sent to the slate con-
ventioti will be made.
Mrs. L. Morehouse, of Portland,
who hns been visiting ' with her
father, Thomas Thomas, of this city,
returned to her home this morning.
ROSEBL'RG-CAMAS VALLEY
STAGE
Two Daily Stages
Two D:i'!v Stages leave
1(1 iSKlil IK,.' -- - 7 and 2:.'t0
Leave CAM ' S. -- 7:4.) anil 11
Nnei-':i! triu n i'le at any time.
I'h'tne 'Til , l!-!iiii'jj or t'amas
Hotel :in 'i- V:i lev.
(IIOla.K I -Mt- AH K fSKIl)
LKi: C. H)M V, Prop.
AHOl'XD THE TOWX
On Outing
Mr. and Mrs. W. M. Lemera and
wife left this morning for Seaside to
enjoy a short outing.
Scotland TmlriMa Hei
J B. Pwan and family, of Scot
land, spent last night at the Umporm
hotel. They are on a tour of the
United States.
Alterations Made
On account of several alterations
the now organ at the Majestic the
ater will not be ready for operation
tor several days.
MAN'S
BEST AGE
A man is as old as his organs ; he
can be as vigorous and healthy at
70 as at 35 if he aids his organs in
performing their functions. Keep
your vital organs healthy with
GOLD MEDAL
Tba world's standard raroady for kidnay,
ar, bladder and uric acid tranbiaa
sloe 1696; corracts disorders; stimulates
vital organs. AU druggists, throe alias.
CaU MaaWt ararr has
Millions for a
New Stomach
One of the creatmt American milHoa
aired Raid to his physician, "A million
dollari, Doctor, ipot ciuh and no grum
bling, for A new atomach," and tlia
the sick man groaned and turned away.
All hia wenlth could not make hint
happy or contented, for happiness IarKv
ly dopends upon di goat ion. Without
health where dona hap pin nag come inf
After all the stou.ar. plays a great
pa rt In everyday life. W it hout a
hoalthy stomach and good digestion our
blood is thin, watery and poor, our
heart action is weak, our liver does not
do its duty, and man is minora We and
unhappy. Prevent tUneune by putting
the bouse in order and atrongthoning
the system agr.ii.r.1 tli kithis t diseaae.
Dr. Pierre, of the InvoJida' iioU-l and
Surgical Institute, at IlufTalo, N. 7
years ago undritool disrawa and their
prevention, and he discovered certain
roots and herbs which were nature's
remedies, and succeeded in putting them
np in a form that rould be easily pro
cured at tJie drutf store (liquid or
tablets). This he allud Dr. I 'tree's
Gulden Medical Discovery. This Din
eovery gives no f:ilse stimulation be
eanae it contains no alcohol or any nar
toUic. It helps digestion and the aav
iini.ation of such elements in the food
aa are required for the blood. It give
ta the blood the food elements the tis
sues require. For over 0fty years it
has enjoyed the confidence of
DAILY UtSATIIICH RUPOHT.
IT. fT. Went her liurtnu, loesl vfTloe,
Koseburg, Oregon. 24 hours ending t
rt. fn :
1'rrflpllajfloa In InrheH itnrl Hundredths
H f Klit-Nt If mpi-T h ( ui yt'Hiercliiy . , hii
LoweHt tcnipcriiture lnL nlKht..,. 53
Total pri'dp. since tlrst f month 0
Total preelp since first of month .42
Normal prtM-lp. for this month ... .33
Total p reel p. from Sept. 1, 1919, to
date arst
AVfiaxe priM-ip. from Bpt. 1, '77.34.2$
Totitl .(.ll' lt n. y from S. pt. 1, 'lit. 11. 2;
Averse prtrlpltatlon fur 43 wst St-
sons (Hept. to May, Inrjvulre) . .31.47
Ull.I.IAM HK1J- Observer.
Tonlaiit and V(-1nclny fslr.
BEAR OIL
For Vour IS&iir
ytwr rtun't us parfumsid lotions.
For tbmf OaMl br oil, will,
ttbti pount lnsjraxitaPt frm
thai SsU, gtioara md forl vt
H trs, A relia-bl fortnulsl I
ftOTALKO. Itdlmns' rl.kir fuf
fcsJr suill tp. Aalngtlstiing no.
Ml im -reamln lANl)mi h
toppluf r.il.UMO IIAIU. and
FadtMlrsff NitW GRVHTU In
ntsy -aa thsjB) til fall)
matigaU). stsMt-wast
fwstrsMiM. rut moo, woman,
all4r. Imp arlfartl
not SHm other, roam
fcOTAttte ml tb ttrosj ; m Most It KiM
ISltaf or Msassipai tar pfmr bl mm (usuaalaa, to
fMsHtarfal.
Buy Your Neuola Phonograph Now.
From Factory To You.
A two weeks Cash Sale.
Our $200 Neuola Phonograph for only $150.00
Our $130 Neuola Thonograph for only $110.00
Our $120 Neuola Phonograph for only $100.00
Customers having already purchased any ot the above phonographs
on payments who wish to take advantage of this sulu may do so by
paying thler balance In cash during this sale. Sale begins Monday,
August 2nd.
THE TONE SHOP
229 NORTH JACKSON ST.
USED CARS
Buick Roadster, 4-Cyl 1918 Mitchell, 6-Cyl
Overland Roadster, 4-Cyl 1919 Mitchell, 6-Cyl
Ford Touring i'i Ton Chevrolet Truck, 4-Cyl
All in first-class shape, if you are looking
for a good used car, call on us.
J. F. BARKER & CO.,
ROSEBURG, OREGON
IMPLEMENTS AUTOMOBILES TRACTORS