Announcing the
1987 Lane Literary Awards
The First Annual Lane Literary Awards, sponsored by
Lane Literary Guild, Lane Regional Arts Council and
What’s Happening, is now accepting previously unpub
lished short fiction and poetry from writers residing in
Lane County.
Works by selected writers will be included in Pacifica, a
special literary supplement, to be published in the
September 17 issue of What's Happening.
The two award winners in each category will be invited
to read as part of Lane Literary Guild's Eugene Celebra
tion Reading, at the Hult Center on September 27.
Each award winner will also receive $50.
Jurors for the Awards will be the featured guest readers
at the Eugene Celebration Reading. They are poet Judy
Grahn and science fiction writer John Varley.
• Writers must reside in Lane County, Oregon.
• Writers may submit either poetry or fiction, but not
both.
• All submissions must be typed: fiction (double-spaced)
not to exceed 1500 words; poetry not to exceed 5
poems or 300 lines.
• Two copies of each work are required, without the
author's name on them.
• One separate cover sheet should list the writer's name,
address, and title of each work submitted.
• Work samples will not be returned.
• A $3 reader's fee for each writer must accompany the
submission. Make checks payable to Lane Literary
Guild.
• Entries should be mailed to: Lane Literary Awards,
Lane Regional Arts Council, 411 High St., Eugene, OR
97401.
• Deadline for receipt of entries: 4 pm, July 9, 1987.
• Entrants will be notified by mail of the jurors' decision
by August 15.
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Dancing on the Edge
Continued from cover
spliced sheets, it’s just not worth it.)
Experienced spiders are so comfort
able with certain routes on the Butte
that they easily free climb without
ropes. Once a route has become too
easy for them they can complicate
matters by climbing with only one (or
even no) hands or eliminating certain
key holds. Contriving climbs in this
way is a proven method to vastly im
prove one’s technique.
Gawkers (in cowboy hats, pointed
boots and sun glasses) pose the in
evitable question: “Mow’d y’all git
them ropes up there?” There are two
possible answers to this query. At the
Butte one has the option of walking
up by a trail and running the rope
through bolts anchored at the top.
Thus the activity is appropriately
named “top roping.” The climber ties
into one end of the rope and the
belayer on the ground takes up the
slack during the ascent. If the climber
falls the belayer stops the rope from
moving with friction and catches the
fell. The climber can literally hang on
the rope or even be lowered to the
ground from this “yo yo” configura
tion. With this type of insurance one
can safely try any climb.
“Lead climbing" on the other hand
is a more serious proposition requir
ing a climber to seriously assess skills
and limitations. When leading, a
climber brings the rope up the rock.
Pieces of protection (called chocks,
stoppers, friends, etc.) are placed in
available cracks and the climber then
clips the rope to them after passing
above. In a lead fall the climber will
fall twice the distance down as he/she
is above the highest piece of protec
tion. This is assuming the protection
holds. The dependability of the pro
tection varies with where and how it
was placed. The ideal is to place
“bomb proof pro.” Conversely the
leader’s nightmare is to fall and “zip
per the pro” . . . resulting in a ground
fall.
More and more women are enjoy
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ing climbing. Novice women often
progress faster than men. What they
might lack in upper body strength
they often make up for by superior
balance control and flexibility. There
are excellent women climbers (highly
skilled and strong) at the Butte. One
often sees entire families climbing
together. It’s humbling to watch a ten
year old* scamper fearlessly up the
rock.
On certain days U of O classes
monopolize the area. (You’ll recog
nize them by the yellow and orange
helmets.) Eugene Parks and Recrea
tion also offers courses in rock climb
ing through the outdoor program at
the River House. In general the at
mosphere is friendly and supportive
and one can almost always find some
one who is willing to trade a belay.
The columns are comprised of ig
neous rock known as columnar basalt
which formed when molten lava cool
ed (during the oligocene period) some
32,000,000 years ago. The contraction
of cooling lava resulted in vertical
stress fractures or shrinkage joints. It
is into these 32,000,000 year old
cracks that climbers forcibly jam
fingers, hands, fists and feet.
Controversial chalk dots the rock.
Some say it aids their climbing by en
hancing the grip of sweaty hands.
Others criticize it for its visual im
pact, often adding that it serves main
ly as a psychological crutch. On one
day a climber cleaned chalk off the
rock with a tooth brush. Eventually
two weeks of winter rain will wash the
slate clean until it’s dry enough to
climb again.
There is a guide to climbs at Skin
ner Butte available for $1.50 through
Parks and Rec at the River House.
Forty-six routes are described and
rated. Some of the most creative
names include “Dastardly Crack,"
“Discipline Jam,” “Limpdick,”
“Sprained Thumb” and “Satisfac
tion.” A climb is traditionally named
and rated (on a complex scale of diffi
culty) by the person who bags the first
ascent. An additional 51 contrived
variations are described for those so
inspired. And of course people are
constantly making up their own varia
tions of climbs at the columns.
Guide to Local Arts,
Entertainment and Events
Published Every Thursday
Publishers
Elisabeth Lyman
Lucia McKelvey
Sonja Ungemach
Editor
Lucia McKelvey
Advertising Manager
Elisabeth Lyman
Production Manager
Sonja Ungemach
Office Manager/Production
Sheri Longobardo
Assistant Editor
Deborah McGee
Cover Design
Melanie Pratt
Advertising Representatives
Susan Brokaw
Ken Hof
Martha Wagner
Garde Wells
Contributing Writers
Deborah McGee
Jim Stiak
Lois Wadsworth
Martha Wagner
Photographer
David Stein
Distribution
Daybreak News Co.
Typesetting
Prototype
Camera Work
Graphics Unlimited
Printing
Springfield News
335 West 20th Avenue
Eugene, Oregon 97405
(503) 484-0519
Copyright 1987 What’s Happening.
All rights reserved.