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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (Dec. 3, 1916)
6 TIIE SUNDAY OREGONIAX, PORTLAND, DECEMBER 3, 1916. BRILLIANT COLOR OF FLAME OR "ORANGE" FOX MAKES IT BECOMING TO ONLY FEW WOMEN Skunk Pelisse With Muff to Match Is Cosily Warm Against Winter Winds Woman Whose Seal Coat Will Hardly Bear Remodeling Is Having It Entirely Rebuilt This Season. - "yNy"" I -, 7f Til. 7 - ' ' ' 1 ' V - f 9 " f . I lb 7- 1 , s i I " 7 ' ,j 7 3 -rfwa " " 7 ' " -7' 7 V- I jy ... s': , rv i 0 if ' I It. sj. , , '' ' " ' f , yri rs :'r"'- 7 45 , ' ' : l 17 7s::i I ? -"7 jctiqn BY ANNIE BLANCHE SHELBY. AS third hand we are influenced in our policy not alone by the rela tive strength or weakness of our hand and the state of the score, but to a greater or less degree by the an nouncements of our partner and right hand opponent. If both have passed and we also are weak we, too, should pass. If our partnei"(the dealer) has called no trumps and second passed, we also should generally pass if our hand will assist the no trump, or unless we hold a strong spade or heart hand, when the better policy, as a rule, is to over call with two of the suit. If we have exceptional help for' the no-trumper, we should generally call "two no trumps," as a pre-emptive bid to fore stall a bid from fourth hand, which, in the event the hand is played at no trumps, would direct his partner as to the suit he wished led. If the dealer has called no trumps and second passed, we should make what is known as a warning bid, other wise a" takeout, if we hold a non assisting no-trump hand: a hand, that is, without re-entries save perhaps in the suit we call. A warning bid is a bid made over some bid made by one's partner, to tell him we have-no help for him at hispid, but have at least a certain modicum of strength in the suit we call. In other words, it warns our partner against going on with his bid. Except under unusual conditions it behooves him generally to heed the warning. A warning bid is made on any five card suit that we may hold if headed by ten or higher card, or any six-card aiMt regardless a . til vaiua of the Bridge cards. Should we hold two weak five card suits, the one having the higher valuation should be called. If our only long suit is a four-card suit, no warn ing should ' be given, no matter how weak the hand. A five-card suit as the trump suit, though topped by noth ing higher than the ten. is generally good for two and often three tricks,- and, in conjunction with partner's no trump strength, and especially if he himself holds two or more of the suit, thus insuring our holding the major ity, will generally make good the con tract. Not so. however, a four-card trump suit. The danger in such case is too great that the majority may be with the adversaries. Better, there fore, to leave the no trump to Its fate than to run the lisk of greater loss by an increase of contract. The warning bid in a minor suit al ways indicates weakness no probable tricks save in the sut named. The warning bid of a major suit may mean strength or weakness. It may be on hands similar to those described, five to the ten, with nothing else; six or more small, with nothing else; or it may be on an all-round good hand, with the. requisite strength in the suit to Justify the bid. The objection that is sometimes made that one's partner may not know whether the takeout is from strength or weakness is of no consequence. If it is the conventional takeout from weakness, he should be thankful that It is given; if It is from strength, an exceptionally good score should be the result. To be sure, if he holds four aces, or has strength in the three remaining suits, he may, if in his Judgment it seems best, go back to no trumps; otherwise, and especially if he holds two or more of the suit, thus insuring the side holding the ma jority, he should let the suit bid stand. With no help in the suit and the hand not strong enough to go back to no J TUB brilliant color of flame. or "orange" fox, makes It becoming to but few women, but there is no more splendid and stunning fur when one can wear it. Paul I'oiret intro duced this gorgeous pelt to fashion, and with the brown-toned costumes of this season it is specially effective. A scarf and mult set of good quality, like the set pictured, costs $100, or over; and if one wears flame fox at all, the fur should be as rich and beautiful in qual ity as possible, for no fur is more con spicuous. No fear but the wearer of this skunk pelisse, with muff to match, will be cosily warm, howe er the Wintry winds may blow. The pelisse is s.mped like a circular cape, with tab-shaped ends at the front which fall below the hips. The arms are well covered and the back of the cape fall well below the waistline, protecting a part of the back that is sensitive to sharp Winter winds; for many a too-short cape will be re sponsible for an acuteattack of lum bago this season. This skunk set ac companies a tailored suit of dark green mohair and worsted mixture. The hat is of green pontine, and buttoned walk ing boots of very dark brown glazed kid complete a practical Winter day costume. The woman whose seal coat will hardly bear remodeling Is having it en tirely rebuilt this season into a little seal wrap, matched by a smart muff. These small seal wraps are very much the vogue and the one pictured comes from an exclusive furrier's, i The long pelisse ends give dignity to the wrap and the trimming of skunk adds a youthful touch. The melon muff has bell cuff ends, which protect the arms In t.ieir thin sleeves, the ends of the bell cuffs meeting the edge of the wrap when the muff is lifted. trumps, he should rasa, or call any suit that he may hold that comes up to the requirements of the bid. The major takeouts are of greater impor tance now than ever, because of the modern tendency to call no trumps on considerably lighter strength than for merly. On the same principle that it is ad visable under certain conditions to overcall partner's no trump with a major suit, so it is inadvisable to over call partner's major suit bid with no trumps, unless when holding the four aces or with every suit protected, save perhaps the suit partner has called. Even then there is some doubt as to the wisdom of the course. When it is taken into consideration that it re quires but one more trick to go game at a major suit than at no trumps, it can readily be seen that little is to be gained as a rule by shifting from a major suit bid to no trumps, with the additional risks which no trumps generally . entails. It should be borne in mind, too, that' the stronger the assisting hand the njore likely is the original spade or heart declaration to make game. We should not change partner's spade bid to a heart bid. or, conversely, his heart bid to a spade bid (though the spade trick ranks one point higher) unless w-e have no help in his bid, but have great strength in the suit we call, pertiaps four or five honors. The over call of partner's major suit bid with two of a minor suit is a warning of absolute hopelessness in his suit one or perhaps none of the suit and a hand without assistance save in the suit we name, which should be of ex ceptional strength. Sucn bid is known as a backward bid. It gives partner a mental photograph of our hand, and he may let our bid stand, persist in his original bid, or adopt some other policy as in . his judgment seems best. If the score were 18 or over, and he holds two or more of our uit, it is generally better to let our bid stand rather than go back to his original one. If the dealer has called no trumps and second bidder two of a suit. We, if holding protection in the adverse suit and strength in another suit, should call "two no trumps" or double. Without protection, that is, an ace, a well-guarded king, or queen. Jack, and one or more small, we either pass this would indicate to partner that we have no protection in the euit or make some legitimate bid of our own, not so much in the hope to secure the bid as to inform our partner as to the assist ance we could render in the suit. Whether to raise the no-trump call or double depends usually upon whether it be the first or tile rubber game. At the beginning of the rubber it is policy to play for penalties; towards the end, for the same. If partner has called a suit, and sec ond passed, we should make any legit imate bid that would go same with fewer tricks, though we can assist partner's bid. Particularly should we do t'jis if he has bid a minor euit. If our partner, the dealer, passes and second hand bids, we should make any legitimate bid our hand warrants, to prevent second hand getting the bid at a one-trick contract. In this as in all cases, however, we enould use judg ment and not' make a bid simply for the reason given above, that the Sand does not ojherwise Justify. It must be remembered that a forcing bid does not always force; such bid in fact is very apt to rebound upon the . bidder and bring to him the disaster he hoped to bring upon the opponents. When our own bid seems doubtful it is bet ter as a rule to yield the bid to the adversaries, if their bid will not give them game, extracting what consola tion we may from the thought that it is less expensive to lose' on their bid than on ours. In other words, if the opponents cannot go game on their declaration, and we cannot go game on ours, it Is better to let them play the hand. When, however, their bid would give them game, we should often lake the bid away, even at a risk; if it be the rubber game, often at certain loss. One should not run away, however, with the thought that reckless bidding even under such conditions would be sound auction. There is a limit to all thipgs. and we should not lose sight of the fact that tie loss of a number of tricks could easily offset the advan tage that would accrue to us if we eventually won the rubber. If second bidder overcalls partner's suit bid we should raise partner's bid (having no better bid of our own) only when our h.ind positively assures two tricks. Such tricks should be in side suits, rather t'.ian in the trump suit, though a high honor in the trump suit is not to be ignored. Aside from these two tricks it is essential that we hold two or more trump cards; otherwise the majority may be held adversely. We should never raise on trump strength alone, as the trumps in the two hands would likely fall together. To be sure, if we hold a certain num ber of trumps and at the same time hold a singleton, or have a missing suit, in estimating our tricks, we may count upon two or more by ruffing. By ruffing is meant trumping a card of a plain suit led when we have none of the suit. If we are warranted In raising part ner's suit bid with two sure tricks we should raise again if. the opportunity offers, if holding an additional trick; still again, if holding another trick, and so on. And if partner has bid on the minimum number of tricks only. It is sounder policy on his part to let the raise come from us, rather than to make it himself, pave only when the game, and especially the rubber game, is in danger. ' If the innate principles of bidding were thoroughly understood and ob served, players could usually calculate with great nicety Just how far they were Justifiable in carrying their bid, and. If wise, we would carry it no fur ther save when warranted by the score. Hot Roll Cosy Useful Bit of Needlework. Cover In Delightfully Embroidered In CroHK-Stltob. Wit: Words "Hot Hollo." In Center. NEXT to a comfy tea cosy on the luncheon table, the hot-roll cosy is the most delightful thing in nee dlework that can find a place in the dining-room. Piping hot rolls, crisp from the oven, soon lose their crisp hotness standing on breakfast table or sideboard, but in the snug depths of a roll cosy they keep appetizlngly hot, even for the late-comers at table. The roll cosy is made of two circular pieces of white linen, embroidered in cross stitch in a simple border design and joined at the edges with a close crochet stitch, also in blue. In the center of he cosy the words "hot rolls" may be embroidered. An opening Is left along one side for the admittance of the rolls. This is the cover; the real cosy part is a wadded lining, also made of cir cular pieces joined at the edges and made of silk or sikoline with layers of cotton batting taeked between. The cosy should be slipped out of the linen cover after breakfast and turned in side out to air. Once in so often a new cosy should be slipped into the embroid ered cover, which is, of course, perfect ly washable. Practical Tips Given. To whiten a white silken blouse which has turned yellow from wear and washing use half a cupful of vinegar in the last rinsing water (lukewarm) when the garment is being washed. Window shades will prove a helpfnl means of keeping out drafts from rooms which have no doors to close. Paint the shade to match the paint in the room, so that it will not jar the nerves because of a clash in color. When applying hair tonic to the scalp use a medicine dropper for the purpose. In this way the right amount of tonic will be used and -the bottle containing the tonic will always appear clean. Pretty Sewing Basket Has Dainty Needlework. Cord Jfandlea Are Iale Gnr and on Raffia llanket Are Knibroldered Graduated Linen. Christmas Sewing Basket Ni THE friends who does a deal of dain ty needlework will appreciate this pretty sewing basket in shades of American beauty rose. Rose pink soi ree silk, a new satin-surfaced silk that conies in lovely luminous shades, was used for the gathered top and the lit tle cushion tomatoes and leaves are in three deeper rose shades of the same sUk. The cord handles are pale gray, and on the raffia basket have been em broidered graduated lines with heavy black silk floss in ordinary satin switch.- few. GROUP PORTRAIT OF WOMEN WHO HAVE WON PLACES OF PROMINENCE IN NEWS Mrs. F. P. Scrivner Welcomes Catholic Alumnae Mrs, F. L DeBost Gives Up Children to Wealthy Father Kuth Law Breaks Aeroplane Records Mrs. George Whelan One of Handsomest Matrons in New York Society. aw 'sn " , . If II I II A YCN I Ik . -""SJP I I I I fs- k "N . , i -Sllv. ii- 7 77 vr v - : r. v. i si i i r i t s , f i .s 'ill I 4 - 1! I I I I r " w x fc. - 2 'III r J Its Sryf L-i3f nil IVS. vailllfc . Sill I V-Sll-IITO" f 4 4! H till T 4 if V J I I I Hi i I I I I io- ci Vxj lii-- i nil mJ Wir' S o fW I I I 1 ' x - , -$111 ' , 7- I VV -VM -fe iwf naw , itiYtwit,iinM r I 77;- 4 V: "1 II 7vN II V . w MRS. FRANK P. SCRIVNER was in charge, of the welcoming of the delegates to the biennial meeting of the Cifcholic Alumnae, which took place at Baltimore November 27. . Mrs. Francis L. DeBost has sur rendered her children to their father, Elbridge Gerry Snow, Jr., so that they may inherit his fortune. She'and Mr. Snow were divorced some years ago and both married again. Her children desired to remain with her and the court awarded them to her. But their father made so much trouble in court about the allowance for their support that Mrs. DeBost believed it was for their good for her to- give them up. mm Ruth Law arrived in New York re cently after a flight from Chicago. Her first day's uninterrupted flight was to Hornell, 590 miles, which beat the rec ord of Carlstrom on his first day out of Chicago. It also beat the long-distance cross-country .record for this country and the woman's long-distance record for the world. After spending the night at Bnghamton. she flew to New York, landing at Governor's Island. She might have made the whole dis tance in a day without stops if she had a bigger gas tank. Mrs. George Whelan Is one of the handsomest women in New York so- Crisp Weather Calls Out Modish Fur Hats. Little Toqaea Are Charming Mosa (irrcnVool Jersey With Pleated Skirt and Coat Attractive for Skutlug. WITH crisper weather the fur hats are beginning to come out. Fur trimmed coats have been worn since October and one wondered, during the warm , days of eany November, how women could stand the big fur collars over their shoulders, but the fur hat remains seasonable no one ventures to wear fur headgear until the weather offers an excuse. Charming are little toques of mink with clusters, of bittersweet berries tucked against one side; and mole tur bans with ornaments of dull silver are equally attractive. The well-dressed woman wears a fur hat matching the fur on her coat or frock, but one ob serves mole hats with opossum- trimmed coats and Persian paw hats with sealskin coats. The skunk and marten hats are a little heavy and rather suggestive of the drum-major's headgear. No woman whose head is large in proportion to the width of her shoulders should wear a fur hat, which in any case makes the head look larger than a toque of felt or velvet. An attractive, ready-made skating suit is of moss green wool Jersey with finely pleated skirt and coat, the latter falling almost to the knee, where it is edged with a plain hem headed by a narrow band of beaver. The pleating is dropped below a yoke of plain material and a belt insures a -trim line' at the waist. A beaver-edged turn-over col lar, buttons covered with the green wool Jersey, and a very little embroid ery of 'silver thread complete a most charming costume for the rink. White gloves, high skating shoes of white, washable kid and a cap of beaver with a clustes of green velvet leaves ac company the costume. Below-the-walstline blouses of silk La Jerz, an unstretchable Jersey silk. are in pretty color combinations, mus tard and navy blue being the favorite. The yoke, cuffs knotted sash and a band at the hip are in the darker shade, the navy sections being stitched with mustard silk and the mustard section with navy silk by way of ornamenta tion. These blouses in the better grade are also sewed with silk throughout, which adds appreciably to their dainty character and to their softness and distinction of line. Aren't Men Awful. "Oh, George," said Mrs. Bridge, "on 7-.. I P M a?U I : 7 ...ee. hi.. - 1 iky : viv Tr-s: Creorje lVi?ar2. 47 " " ciety and noted for her taste in dress. I't ? She has a magnificent collection ofI 4 "4 Jl jewels. Her home is on the fashion-J . II able East Side on Eighty-first street. I St "C? ,sif- - l Queen Maud, of Norway, may soon be involved in the great war. Ger many's actions toward Norwegian ship ping have aroused the people to a point where they are' almost ready to send the Kaiser an ultimatum. Queen Maud was the third daughter of King Ed ward VIT. of Great Britain. She mar ried King Haakon VII of Norway in 1896. . Vivian Frederick is one of the pret tiest of the child actresses of New York. There is a society of child ac tresses which always holds a Christ mas celebration with a tree on the stage of one of the New York the aters. your way down town this morning will you stop at the grocer's and order two pounds of butter and a half pound of tea and some crackers?" "Yes. my dear." "And would you mind leaving my skirt at the tailor's as you go by?" "Yes, my dear." "And then go to the milkman's and tell him to leave an extra pint of cream tmorrow " "Yes. my dear." "And when you get to your office will you call up my sister in Winchester and tell her I'll be over Tuesday? They charge you for calls there." "Yes, my dear; and say, wifey, would you mind sewing up this little rip in my coat before I start?" "Good land, aren't you men terrible? You re always wanting something done." Philadelphia Ledger. Water Is Bad for Face in Winter Season. One Woman Uses Only Cold Cream and Milk and Has Beautiful Com plexion. GOOD, cold water never hurt any complexion, says the old-fashioned woman, who scrubs her face religiously three times a' day. But cold water can do a great deal of harm to the com plexion, kept like a hothouse plant in steam-heated rooms and artificially ligjted rooms most- of the time for months and months. There is a certain woman, 45 years old. who . never touches water to her face from No vember to April ana her complexion is exquisite. Cold cream and warm milk are her safeguards against 'wrinkles and a sallow skin; the cold cream used at night before retiring, the warm milk In the morning upon arising. Once a month her face Ls carefully steamed at bedtime and massaged for 20 min utes thereafter with cream. There is no doubt that the liberal applications of cold cream keep her skin soft, and the milk keeps it white for milk is an excellent complexion bleach; but most women would object strenuous ly to being debarred the refrshment of a water face bath, week in and week outt. AVateV should be used on the face only -once a day, however, during the season when one goes in and out from over-heated rooms to a temperature hovering asound freezing point, and the water' should be as tool as one can stand it and should be used in the morning upon- arising. Cold water dashed over the face and neck will keep the tissues firmer and wrinkles will not be so apt to come or that unpleasant flabbinesa under the chin. Li if one forswears warm water of a. morning. And the face should never be washed immediately before going out of doors. At night go over the face with a soft cloth dipped in cold cream; as ur as cieanuness is con cerned, much more dirt can be removed with cold cream than with water if you do not believe it, wash your faee in What .-."ill nntmiHAr a thnrnnirh man ... - - j . - . ..... ..... H ...... - Tier witli warm wntpr nnil t h im trn nvo,. L-4 it wim me cicil.i ana coin cream, x ou ; will be astonished to see how dingy thj cloth looks and this after the scr rilb with water! Once a week give the face a good steaming, then a good creaming, and finally splash it well with cold water and pat every inch of it with the flat of the palm. Always wear a veil on windy, dusty days and protect the skin with a chiffon veil when there is a sud den, decided drop in temperature. f Prepare This for a Bad i Cough It's Fine J : J Cheaply and F.aslly Made, bat Does the Work Quickly. J The finest couch Byrup that money can buy, costing only about one-fifth as much as ready-made preparations, cn easily be made up at home. The way it takes hold and conquers distressing couerhs, throat and chest colds will really make you enthusiastic about it. Any drupfrist can supply you with 2t ounces of JPincx (.r0 cents worth). Pour this into a pint Yttle and fill the .bottle with plain granulated sugar syrup. Shake thoroughly and it is ready for use. The total cost is about 64 cents and gives you a full pint s family suppl? of a most- effectual, pleasant tasting remedy. It keeps per fectly. It s truly astonishing how quickly is acts, penetrating through every air . passage of the throat and lungs loosens and raises the phlegm, soothes and heals the inflamed or swollen throat mem branes, and gradually but surelv the annoving throat tickle and dreaded cough will disappear entirely. Nothing " better for bronchitis, spasmodic croup, whooping cough or bronchial asthma. Pinex is a special and highly concen- y trated compound of genuine .Norway fiuc nimoinea witn guaiacot and is known the world over for its prompt healing effect on the throat membranes. Avoid disappointment bv asking your jrucsrist for ''2Vi ounces of Pinex" with full directions and don't accept any thing el9e. A guarantee of absolute sat isfaction or monev nromntlv refunded joes Tfith this preparation. " The Pinex .v.y X 1 tXJ lie, mo. i