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THE STJNDAT OREGOXTATT, PORTLAND, JUNE 18, 1916.
IDEAS OF DESIGNERS ARE VARIED
IN PLACING DISTENSION OF SKIRT
Net Petticoat Has Featherbone Hoop Run Through Shirred Casing New Summer Frock Is Embroidered Richly
in Blue, Giving Japanese Effect Cut-Out Embroidery Is Popular.
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SOMB couturiers place the petticoat
hoop at the hip; others drop it to
the knee; still others locate it
midway between, as in a Lanvln frock
of frilled net which you will note has
the very latest sleeve, with a deep
flounce from the elbow. Under the
frock, with its three tiers of frilled
net flounces, is a net petticoat which
has a featherbone hoop run through a
shirred casing:. With short lingrerie
dresnea of this type buttoned boots of
NOVELTIES IN BATHING
COSTUMES ARE OFFERED
Style of Materials Changed, so That Only Those Formerly Popular Are
Taboo Diving Caps Take on Gay Appearance and (.inen Boots Au Fait.
DARK blue flannel and golden
brown brilllantine seem to be the
only materials which are not in
cluded in the list of batbing costume
fabrics. They were once considered the
only practical selection, but nowadays
almost everything else but them Is em
ployed.' Black fiber silk, trimmed with royal
purple or orange satin, white tussah
combined with purple taffeta, navy
blue taffeta adorned with bands of rose
linen, are some of the forms this diver
sity lias taken. A striking and popular
sport material for the seaside is that of
a perfectly huge checker-board square
in a yellow-and-white. black-and-white,
purple-and-white fiber silk, which is of
ucii size that three squares more Up
white washable kid are charming:; but
they must be the dancing; type of boot,
with turned sole and high Louis heel.
Something; entirely new is shown in
one Summer frock from a well-known
French house. Circles of white taf
feta embroidered richly in blues, in
Japanese effect, are couched to the
white organdie with blue silk thread.
The skirt is six yards around and is
edged with white taffeta; and the cuffs
and monk collar are also of white taf
feta. So wide a skirt demands a dis-
cover the waist front- This is cleverly
combined with white fiber silk. A
stunning batbing suit wrap is also
made of this same material and white
khaki kool, a new sporting material
which has been brought out this Spring
and which is a semi-silken fiber on the
Eastern order, somewhat similar to
shantung
Tyros Have Costumes.
For the timid sisters who cling to the
rope are creations of the Victorian type,
.which, with an Inch or two added to
the skirt length, might serve for prom
enade costumes. Here the fiber and
jersey materials give place to taffetas,
silks, satins and sport materials of a
crash-like nature, while cape collars,
ported 6kirtst slashed, skirts and long
tended petticoat in this case a white
taffeta one, with a facing; of witchtex
at .the edg;e.
There is an airiness about boldly cut
out embroidery that makes it accord
well with net the standby Summer
fabric now. Cut-out embroider traced
in delicate green stitches on sheer
batiste ground, is draped over an un
derfrock of net and little net frills
finish skirt and sleeve. The sash
of green taffeta ribbon and the white
taffeta hat has a flange brim of green
legnom. fink roses nestle against a
trimming band of Mack velvet ribbon.
The smart hat. parasol and buttoned
boots of white kid add formality to
simple frock.
sleeves are taken bodily from the well
liked dress models and applied to the
bathing suit realm with no beg pardon
or by your leave. Collars, cuffs and
pocket flaps of handkerchief linen cop
led after a famous Imported sport model
arc noted on a stunning shirred bath
ing frock.
There are two distinct classes; the
bathing suits and the swimming suits.
The former inhabit the regions close to
the rope or ornament the sands, while
the latter are built for deep-sea going
and are not too much cumbered with
skirts. These last models are usually
of the one'-piece "slip-on" variety, and
consist solely of a close-fitting Jersey
garment worn over bloomers or com
bination tights. The fad this season is
to have them quite sleeveless and bur
ton or fasten on each shoulder. Though
sleeveless, these styles are cut wide
enough over the shoulders and under
neath the arms for protection and
grace. Often a band of trimming fabric
wider underneath the arm and narrow
on the shoulder is used, as in the case
of a knitted suit of purple fiber silk
trimmed with black-and-white silk
fiber, which has an Insert at the skirt
sides and a knotted sash of the black-and-white.
Another qua4nt near sleeve.
less effect is piped with cerlsa where
the sleeve is- cut out over the shoulder
and forms a buttoned band below. These
are all "slip-ons," or one-piece swim
ming suits.
JlvlK Caps Are Gay.
Diving caps of bright and beautiful
pure rubber gum which reminds you of
the color seen at a modernist picture
gallery, are now made in some magic
seamless way to be pulled down over
the lovelocks and warranted to keep
them dry. They range from those quite
without adornment to those which have
rosettes, streamers and bands of Vene
tian striped rubber, or those which defy
the waves with an upstanding trim of
rubber feathers.
A pretty cap is made from a combina
tion of gay Venetian striped "rubber
with edged band and rosette of gray
rubber. Another has a pom-pom of
tiny pieces of colored rubber on the top
and two streamers. A third has big
polka dots of scarlet rubber set onto a
foundation of pale blue rubber.
This rubber gum is so thin and trans
parent that the hair can be almost seen
beneath, yet it provides perfect protec
tion, if the diving cap is properly
put on.
A unique diving cap has been in
vented this season which is called the
"Aviator" because of its shape, 'which
follows that of the Army airman's
headgear. This cap has a close-fitting
headband and top of transparent sum
in tan color, while a turndown piece for
protecting the back of the neck Is of
bright red gum and is tied with strings
under the chin. -The wide headband is
also decorated with red.
Dutch Cap Favorite. ,
The quaint Dutch cap is 'well liked
anl offers many ways of trimming.
Stripes, plaids and plain colors are aH
used in the rubber gum and in rubber
ized t-ibrics for real service.
There is a considerable interest being
taken in beach 'hats this season, and
some mremely plcturRqiTe ones have
been evolved out of wnat seems to
have been cane chair backs or rattan
work askets. as well as of satin, rub
ber and rubberized materials. There is
one hat of pale green gum rubber, and
has a high shirred crown and a big
bow of rubber, and while the broad
brim is of the same rubber pleated into
a wire edge. The brim is flexible, and
can be worn up or down as you like it.
Another is the alpine shape, and is
made of rubberized satin in orange and
tlack with a facing of black. It has a
rubber feather stuck in at one side a la
Alpine.
Next In newness and height comes
the laced shoe of rubberized s41k.
which is much to look at, like an ordi
nary walking shoe with an indestruc
tible sole of heavy canvas combined
with rubber cement. These come in
black, nt vy. red and In black and whltei
stripe. Another variety is or rubber
ized sateen or satin and has elastic
sides.
Linen Boot Novelty.
High black linen boots are the newest-things
the mermaids can wear this
season, for we are no longer in any
doubt about- mermaids . having1 feet.
They are too well provided with bath
ing shoes of all sorts, from these new
high ones of linen to mere sandals, for
the question to cross our minds. Rather
do we lose ourselves in admiration.
The high black linen ones have 12 eye
lets laced with black across a narrow
strip of white linen with a narrower
piece outlining the top. Another high
boot is of blacR satin, and has a similar
treatment in white leather bindings.
About the same style can be had in
sateen in all the leading colors.
Very simple, but hygienic, are the
lines of a bathing corset made of rub
ber sheeting. This material Is not stiff
but sheds water like a 'duck, and proved
Itself a comfort lsst season to many a
plump mermaid who "did not feel com
fortable without a corset."
Brassier la TVern.
A simple front buttoned brassier with
narrow elastics over the shoulder can
also re had and worn with or without
the corset. Other bathing; corset mod
els come in rubber webbing, and a sort
of heavy corset cover made of a very
firm cotton in a crossover model with
garter elastics for the fastening of the
bathing hosiery is to be had designed
for those who do not wish a corset
proper, but appreciate some retaining
undergarment.
Neckwear, sashes, carters, flowers,
beach balls of inflated rubber, and
Ion? fringe-edged scarfs, ire also made
of the ruboer sheetings in gay colors
and of gum rubber. A beach scarf of
white lubber is a very handy thing to
wrap oneself up In when coming In out
of the sea. These scarfs are quite wide
end lone; and have striking designs in
contrasting rubber at the ends above
a deep raw of rubber fringe.
Window Boxes Make Homes
Much More Attractive
Goraeoua Flowera Grow Well In
Shallow Beds, but Must Be
Watered Often and Trimmed Oc
casionally. AT this season every street In Lon
don Is a veritable garden because
of the boxes of bright flowers on the
houscfronts. Every domicile, however
humble, has its gay window boxes and
the dwellings of the rich look like
hanging gardens, with flowers and
vines on the window sills, all along the
facade. There is too little attention
given, ovtr here, to this matter of
windo jr boxes, so inexpensive in first
cost, and the charm and Individuality
of the single house on a block which
shows a gallant array of glowing color
on its window sills, is proof positive of
what a whole block might be if house
holders adopted the delightful English
custom.
Flower boxes with proper arrange
ment for drainage without leakage of
v iter may be obtained at small cost
from the florist, or from most depart
ment stores. Soil Is an Important con
sideration, for these boxes are so shal
low. The soil must be rich and nutri
tious If plants are to thrive. The best
soil Is made of one part of loam, one
part leaf mould and one part sand.
After mixing the parts, soak well with
water before adding the plants. These
should be put in the soil at a time of
day when the sun Is not strong and
kept well watered for a day or two.
Pick off a few leaves so there will be
less surface and the roots of the plant
will -absorb more moisture. Always
water your plants early in the morning
or after sunset.
The most gorgeous flowers. If color Is
desired, are geraniums and these thrive
well in window boxes. Have all the
windows in one color, with scarlet or
pink geraniums and your house will be
a Joy to every neighbor on the block.
Sweet alyssum, mignonette, nasturtiums
and pansies all grow well in window
boxes; and bs sure to add some vines
wandering Jew or climbing nasturtium
to fall over the edge of the box.
Fashion Hints Given.
You may have a dress distinctly orig
ina.1. by painting some simple motif
In oils on the hem or in allover design.
A dark blue straw hat. with the
crown garnished with light gray ribbon
is a favorite color scheme of the mo
ment.
. Brown is distinctly In favor for
quaint taffeta dresses wood brown,
tete de negre. cinnamon and Vandyke
are all favored tones.
Short frilled basques are becomingly
worn on many of the smart taffeta
coats seen, over full taffeta skirts.
Straw and flowered linen make
pretty combination for a child's, hat.
Mole fur is a favorite for - Summer
wear, partly on account of Its neutral
color.
ROYAL MARRIAGES IN EUROPE ARE
ABSORBING CONSIDERABLE ATTENTION
Prince of Wales May Marry Daughter of King of Italy and Austrian Archduchess Alice Reported Engaged to
Crown Prince of Bulgaria Daughter of ..James Benson Kennedy Becomes Lady George Dunbar.
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IT IS reported that Princess Uolanda,
the 15-year-old daughter of the
King of Italy, may marry the Prince
of Wales, who is 22. He has been vis
iting Rome lately.
.
The Austrian Archduchess Alice. It
is reported, will marry the Crown
Prince of Bulgaria. The match was
arranged to confirm the alliance be
tween the countries. However, these
relationships don't go far in preserving
peace. All the great rulers atwar are
sousins. , .
e
Another American woman now wears
an English title. She was Sophie Ken
nedy, daughter of James Benson Ken
nedy, of New York, who has a home in
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PARASOLS AND PICTURE HATS ARE
' LAWN FETE COSTUME ESSENTIALS
Formal Array Is Antithesis of Sport
Follow Dictates of Fashion
NEW YORK. June 17. (Special.)
Iot with the allurements of sport
garb is one concerned today
and surprisingly enough, too, for sport
clothes seem omnipresent but with the
even' more irresistible allurement of
fete costume; the lovely combinations
of silk, lace and net, of floating rib
bons and festooned roses that go to
make up what is familiarly called the
garden-party frock. The very anti
thesis of sport costume is this. One
tvDe of dress bespeaks informality, the
other the extreme of formality. Sport
attire this year has borrowed for itself
the soft silks and satins, the pastel
tints even the parasols that belong by
righ.to formal costume, for all that
there is a definite and but unmistakable
line drawn between the two types of
dress and no woman is ever confused
to know which is which. One could
no more attend a formal lawn fete in a
crepe de chine sport frock than one
think of yachting in. a garden party
creation of lace and net.
There Is one vital difference be
tween these two styles of dress; one
may mingle In a crowd of expensively
drssed folk on a "sport" occasion, clad
in humble duck skirt, canvas sneakers
and worsted sweater and feel perfectly
correct and "in the picture" as far as
sport clothes are concerned one is at
liberty to dress as one pleases. But to
be "in the picture" at a fashionable
lawn fete one must be expensively
frocked. hatted and booted: nothing
less than the best and most distinctive
will answer. Very beautiful costumes
are exploited on these occasions the
last words in Paris frocks and hats.
Indeed, next to an evening gown the
most charming costumes a woman can
put on is a typical garden fete cos
tume of exclusive type.
Hata and Paraaela Important.
At Newport, at Bar Harbor, at
Southampton, at Lennox, at Tuxedo, at
Coronado, at Long Beach, and at all
the lesser social centers that copy the
modes and manners of these places,
garden fetes are given on a magnifi
cent scale during the midsummer
weeks. -In the beautifully kept grounds
of great houses, on the terraces. In
sunken gardens, under pergolas, on the
turf paths of lovely gardens, trees,
pergolas and awnings provide shade,
but nevertheless the parasol is the sign
and symbol of a garden fete costume;
it is even more important than a pic
ture hat, and parasols are selected with
infinite care that the ensemble may be
perfection.
From Premet comes a delectable gar
den fete costume which will be worn
at Newport in August. The frock is of
white chiffon dotted with violet, over a
foundation of violet chiffon. Inserts
of fine white net In the skirt have four
or five tiny frills of net each, and long
sleeves, deep cape-collar and crossed
chemisette are of the white net with
tiny frills. There is a girdle of violet
taffeta, this match by violet taffeta
parasol trimmed with frills of the
dotted chiffon. A supple brimmed sail
or of white straw, crown and upper
brim covered with violet taffeta is
trimmed -with four clusters of white
and purple violets. The skirt of this
frock measures six yards around.
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London. She was married May 24 to
Sir. George A. I. Dunbar, an officer in
the Black Watch, who' had done dis
tinguished service in South Africa dur
ing the early part of the war.
California, which is sending four
delegates to St. 4uls, has honored the
sex . in -other officfal ways. For ex
ample, L.itta Belle Hibben has been
made Deputy District Attorney of I-os
Angeles. Three years ago she was
graduated at the head of a class which
included 53 men.
Martha Gay. daughter of Mr. and Mrs.
Martin Gay, of New York, in common
with many other society girls : of
Garb Black-and-White Gowns Are
and High Heels Are Worn, Even if
the violet chiffon underskirt five yards.
Under both skirts is a petticoat of
white silk run with hoops of feather
bone tubing.
White net' is as fashionable this
Summer as ever even more, so. it seems
and perhaps no fabric is more ap
pealing in midsummer than airy white
net. A dainty fete frock of net shows
the new elbow, sleeves that are Just
coming in; sleeves reaching only to the
turn of the elbow but lengthened to
the hand by enormously deep frills.
The white net frock referred to has
three deep sleeve frills, not gathered
but circular in cut. the edge of the
frill, cut out in points and finished
with a narrow net pleating. The frills
are attached to the short sleeves under
a double strip of pleating between
which is twisted, pale blue satin rib
bon. This blue ribbon runs under the
wide collar also and ties In a care
less bow at the front of the bodice.
The collar is attached to a V-neck, cut
well off at the shoulders and the outer
edge of the collar is vandyked like the
sleeve frill and finished with pleating.
The skirt has three net flounces with
vandyked edges trimmed with net
Old - Fashioned Recipe for
Shortcake Is Given
Biscuit Cmat Split and Covered
With M ashVd Strawberries. Is
- Served Piping; Hot With Rich,
Sweet Cream.
THIS is the season for good old
fashioned strawberry shortcake
the kind grandmother used to make,
with a crisp, unsweetened biscuit crust
and all the sweetness in sugared ber
ries. Rich, sweet cream adds the final
touch. If you are one -of the unfortu
nates who board and are unable to get
any strawberry shortcake except the
modern sort, made of sweetened cake
with a few lumpy, whole berries scat
tered on top and between the layers;
here is an old-fashioned recipe for the
real shortcake which you can make in
a quantity for four persons in the tiny
oven that fits over your one-burner
gas stove.
For the biscuit crust, mix a cup of
flour (sifted) with a pinch of saPt
and a teaspoon of baking powder. With
the fingers mix in a teaspoonful of
butter until the flour and butter are
thoroughly blended. Into the center
pour half a cup of milk and cut in the
milk with a knife, using an over and
over cut as though you were lapping
the dough over the milk.
Turn out the dough on a floured
board and pat it light with the hands
until it Just fits a small square or
oblong baking pan. In half an hour
It will be well raised ana crisply
browned. Spilt the crust and spread
each half with butter on the inside.
Mash half a box of strawberries to a
pulp and sweeten well. Pour over th
buttered layer, fit the other layer on
top and pour the remainder over the
top of the shortcake piping hot again
and serve at once with a pitcher of
thick, sweet cream. -
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Gotham, has joined in a camp at Mid
vale, N. J. This is a part of the pre
paredness wave sweeping the country.
The society buds now at Midvale have
hardly ever done anything more stren
uous than swing a tennis racket before
they Joined the camp, which was estab
lished by Miss Candace Hewitt, of New
York. Now they are drilling, policing;
camp and cooking.
The King and Queen of Spain are
carrying on a fine charity for the sol
diers of the nations at war. They have
Instituted a bureau of investigation,
which makes inquiries concerning men
of one country imprisoned in another
and informs their families. The King
and Queen are directing this work in
person.
to Be of Diaphanous Type Shoes Must
They Do Tear Up the Turf.
pleating and the frock is short enough
to show high buttoned boots of white
kid. Sash and parasol lend color, bo la
being of heliotrope silk.
Faotnear for Fete Have Heels.
' Sport considerations are cast aside
when a garden party is in contempla
tion rubber soled sport shoes would
never do at all. even if high heels do
cut up the turf. The prettiest and
highest heeled boots one possesses muet
be donned with the fete frock or
slippers if one prefers, though this
Summer the high-buttoned boot of very
dainty kid Is considered most correct
with very formal afternoon costume.
White boots or clippers will be tne
choice if one's garden party frock. Is
all airy, lacy white; and one will not
worry about grass-stains for the new
washable kid sponges off snow white
In a twinkling. In the colored glased
kid footwear tobasco brown Is the new
shade and there are charming blues,
greens and violets, all obtainable In
glaxed kid boots with buttoned tops
of white, fawn or pearl gray. Bronae
or patent leather pumps with white or
cream silk stockings are correct. If
one fancies them.
Not a few of this year's garden fete
costumes are in black and white com
bination; the black being almost in
variably, fine black net or tulle. Thta
is added to the white net or lace frocTc
In Inserted ehirrings, folded bands to
imitate hems, and so on. Sometimes a
drop of black net falls between a lace
skirt and a tunic of net or lace. Such
a frock is usually accompanied by a
picture hat of airy black malines and
by a black and white parasol. A gar
den party frock by Cheruit is of black
net and black chantilly Insertion over
white silk, the silk skirt distended by
featherbone hoops. A big black lace
and tulle hat is trimmed with one
deep red rose and there is a paraaol to
match the rose. There are even more
formal garden fete frocks of taffeta in
flower designs, the gay silk lifted la
panniers that are crisply stayed with
witchtex facing, and petticoats of lace
showtn? with apparent Inadvertence
Krtiw tH tucked un skirts.
FRECKLES
Don't Hide Them With a Velli Remove
Them With the Othlne Prescription.
This prescription for the removal of
freckles was written by a prominent
physician and is usually so jaccessful
in removing freckles and giving a
clear, beautiful complexion that It la
sold by any druggist under guarantee
to refund the money If it falls.
Don't hide your freckles under a
veil; get an ounce of othlne and remove
them. Even the first few applications
should show a wonderful Improvement,
some of the lighter freckles vanishing
entirely.
Be sure to ask the druggist for tho
double-strength othlne;-it is this that
is sold on the money-back guarantee.
s