6 THE SUNDAY OltEGOXTAN, PORTLAND, NOVEMBER 15, 1914. GRACE IS CHIEF OBJECT SOUGHT IN LATEST TAILLEUR BY CHERUIT Prevailing Type of Long-Waisted Basque Modified and Full Tunic "Well Controlled in Lines Clever Device Is Dropping of Bodice Fabric Into Skirt of Yoke and Placing Draped Sash Below. if" " N ' . & A ,a '4 . i?L - S : J -4 .vSvv fMi'A ' - v I ! k- f&n , - H N y X v - - , s - " r x s f t i 7 V- - - X'-V- f"f ' ' f - . , J. . , . J i" ' " " " . - - - - n fj 7 v CHERUIT'S fetish is grace, and all current styles are modified by this artist to produce charm, rather than extreme or sensational fashions. Therefore. Cheruit's frocks are always distinctive and pleasing- as well as un questionably smart. The prevailing type of long-waisted basque has been modified In a late Cheruit tallleur of navy-blue French serge and the full tunic is well controlled in its lines At the neck the coat Is sharply sloped away to show an Inner collar of finest batiste. Buttoned dancing boots with gaiter tops and Cuban Loui3 heels ac company the tailleur. A clever device Is the dropping of bodice fabric into the skirt in yoke effect and placing a draped sash be low. This makes the waistline longer uBure more slender, in sugges tion at least. A new frock illustrates mm men, waist and yoke of skirt are of green chiffon, striped with em broidered green velvet and below-lhe yoke falls a tunic of pleated green velvet, a soft green satin sash, start ling at the bodice-fronts and crossing below the waistline, hiding the Junc tion of chiffon yoke and velvet tunic These crossed sashes usually snap- , ou lugemer at tne back under a loose knot or end of the sash mate rial, attached to the skirt. All he essential features ot the new are in a smart trotteur of dark green faille classique, which has excellent -simplicity of line. In it are the long--waisted bodice, buttoned to the- throat -and with standing collar: the set-in -sleeve, close at the wrist. fh tremely wide girdle, the pleated tunic nnri t Vi dm-. l. 4. . . -- -" buuii ciiuugn to reveal ; the feet plainly. Buttoned boots with 'light ta.n tops ana, stockings of nat :ural silk harmonious with the frock of fiOft. (Ifirlr trraaw .. . ; Cure at Home for Conceit. ; Exchange. If a man would accept his wife's :estmate, marriage would be a- great -cure for conceit. LONG-WAISTED COAT, WRAP AND SASH GIVE EFFECT OF YOUTHFUL FIGURE Belted Chemise Bodice of Night Blue Nocturne Satin With Skirt of Black and We Striped Pussy Willow Silk AmonS Lat Creations Slender Hips and Loose Corset Demanded in AIL WHEfr fashion once decrees a low waistline, woman is loathe to give up the style, for nothing makes the figure so girlish as the long walsted frock, which disguises pro nounced curves at the bust and natural waistline and gives the undeveloped, lather flat suggestion of young girl Jiood. The high, empire waist, if well managed, also gives a youthful line to the figure but the effect is far" more easily achieved by the long-waisted bodice and therefore the popularity of the latter. It scarcely needs to be added that this girlish bodice, sashed at the hip, is tnly for the woman who still carries some semblance of youth. A woman of 50, even if slender us a wand, is rather nbsurd in the long-waisted frock which seems, in some subtle manner, to de tract from her dignity and to make her look like a frolicsome, overgrown child with a face, alas; long past childhood's Ill s '' -4 feD 1 I ':.- '' -ti'' 'A I freshness. As for the middle-aged stout woman, the less said about her in a low-sashed bodice, the better. We have all seen painful illustrations thereof, during the late Summer and Autumn, long Waist 1m Polret's Idea. After a long period of directoire fash ions with short-waisted - bodices and clinging, skirts, Paul Poiret daringly brought out a long-walsteri frock with a sash around the hips. This costume, which first appeared more than a year ago in Paris, was called a lounging or house gown, but it proved so becoming that it became immediately popular and the model was modified and reproduced in afternoon and evening frocks which became the inspiration for the present low-sashed basque. Among the vari ations of that' style are the chemise frock, the pinafore frock, the Russian frock and others. All demand slender hips, a loose-waisted corset which does not accentuate the curve of the bust, ' ' and absolutely flat lines at the front ana Dack of the figure. With the high er waistline, small waists 'and more curve at the bust undoubtedly will be come the fashion; but, just at present, the long-waisted, low-sashed Jeune fille figure is the fashion. Chtmlw Frock Graceful In LI nr. Sometimes the chemise bodice is belt ed in and sometimes it is not. An in stance of the latter is shown in an Oc tober trousseau costume inspired by a Martial et Armand frock shown at the Spring opening. The bodice of this frock is of night blue nocturne satin and the skirt Is of black and blue striped pussy willow silk, lifted at the sides in a sort of drapery that flares widely at the knee. The little chemise bodice is slashed at the side seams and stops at the hip. It is entirely unbelted and has long raglan sleeves of the ma terial. Over the shoulders is a band trimming of Jet which suggests shoul der-straps, . holding up an ordinary chemise. Another rather extreme costume of the low-belted order was described on last week's page in connection with cotton-woven fabrics for Winter fash ions. This frock, .designed by the Wiener Werkstatte in Vienna is of fine voile over daphne silk. The long waisted bodice blouses over the skirt almost at the hip and the skirt In turn blouses over in Turkish effect at the ankle, displaying the buttoned dancing boot quite generously. Such a cos tume would be possible "only on a slim figure for the bloused bodice and skirt would be fatal to a woman of heavy lines. Saak Lengthens Waistline. Even a bodice of normal waistline may be made to look long-waisted and smart by winding a few yards of rib bon around the waist and then down over the hips. Some of the girls, these days, put on their sashes as do the West Point cadets, fastening one end of the sash to the bedpost and the other to their figures and then revolving slowly until they are trimly wound up in the soft length of silk. Most of the new evening frocks have wide sashes and the effect is pretty indeed. A de lightful Jittle dancing frock has Just been sent home for a debutante. It is in three sections, flounced skirt, sash and shoulder-straps, any actual bodice being missing. The skirt, of flesh pink nocturne satin, has three flounces of pink tulle, the upper one falling from the hip. More of the flesh pink satin is swathed from hip to bust, forming an apology for the regulation bodice and to this are attached shoulder-straps of the pink tulle which, with the upper line of the wide satin girdle, form a square neck opening at front and back This opening is not outrageously decol lete, as some dance frocks for older women are, because the filmy pink tulle shoulder-straps are rather wide and droop over the arm at the edge also. The swathed satin girdle fastens at the back with concealed snap-buttons. So does the upper flounce, under folds of the tulle. Surplice Bodice Graceful Device. The crossed surplice bodice with ex tended ends that pass around to the back and knot in sash fashion at the hip, is a very grae'eful device for ob tainingthe long-waisted effect with out resorting to the Russian, Moyen age or.- chemise basque idea. This crossed surplice bodice can be worn by well-developed figures as well as by slim ones and is a deservedly popular style. A ready-made frock in one of the shops, noted last week, had a bodice of this kind, of mid-brown goldenrod satin, over a double tunic of brown silk net, imposed on a skirt of the brown satin. The sleeves were of brown silk net over flesh pink net and a little gold embroidery on the bodice and around the wide armholes added an Individual note to the frock. Long Basques Conceal Fastening. Smart is the sleeveless basque, ending in a low sash, which appears to be miraculously moulded over the figure, no sign of a fastening being visible at the front or back. These basques close with snap-fasteners at the shoulders. Sometimes they are of velvet, some times of satin. 6ver-sklrts of contrast ing material. An attractive model in mind has a basque of hunter's green corduroy worn over sleeves of green daphne silk. The skirt is of pleated green broadcloth with a narrower petticoat of thin daphne silk in two, layers about the feet With this fashionable shade of green natural silk stockings are much liked and are worn with patent leather boots having buttoned tops of pale tan material. Old Fashions in Beds Con form to Modern Ideas. Patchwork. Four-Posters, Testers and Valances Being Revived in Most Exclusive Bedroom. THE more old-fashioned the bed looks nowadays the more does it conform to modern, fashionable ideas. The bed of our grandmothers has re turned and, four-posters, teeters and .valances are the correct things in ex clusive Dearooms. Even patchwork quilts are being revived, though the modern quilt is not made of rag-bag scraps in a dizzy. Intricate Jumble of color. Instead the "patches' are cut in uniform side and shape and are ap pliqued to the -ground material, of the quilt to form a graceful design. An overhead tester with curtains hanging at the bedhead is rather op pressive in Summer time, when all the air possible is a first consideration, but the Winter bedroom is charming with its four-poster, valanced with dotted swiss or sheer white muslin, and a tester top or canopy overhead. ' An at tractive bed of this sort has a valance of cream French damask bordered in a dainty festoon in two shades of pink. ' The tester, which falls in rounded scallops, is of pink-flowere'd creau dam ask with narrow pink cotton gimp trimming around the scallops. The bedspread matches the tester and va lance and a pink silk eiderdown cover let is folded across the foot. Aratwr charming old-fashioned effect is achieved with twin beds of old Colonial pattern, with massive carved posts and footrail and headpiece of solid mahog any. Between the two beds stands a candle stand of Martha Washington type. There are no testers on these beds such an effect would be rather overpowering on twin beds, but each has a full valance of fine white pique and a spread of snowy Marseilles type with fringe at the edges.' A valance hangs best when sewed firmly all around to a section of stout sheeting which exactly fits over the springs. Better still, snap-fasten the valance every 10 inches to this cover and it may be removed for laundering and another valance snap-fastened on without re moving the mattress. Table Linen, Embroidered With Card Symbols, Latest. Attractive Nnpkins In Red or Black Also Suitable to Afternoon Parties. A RATHER attractive conceit In the way of table-linen for an after noon card party is a set of tablecloth and napkins embroidered with the playing-card symbols; spades, hearts, diamonds and. clubs. The tablecloth, large enough for the ordinary low cardtable. is hemstitched at the edge and has the four symbols, one at each corner, , embroidered in the appropriate black or red. Each serviette, or small lunch napkin, similarly hemstitched at the edge, has one of the symbols in one corner. , Such a set mighteaslly be contrived oy any woman who does simple em broidery; for the tablecloth and servi ettes may be picked up for a modest price and the clubs, spades, hearts and diamonds embroidered at home. On the serviettes the symbors are about the size they are printed on playing cards; on the four corners of the table cloth they may be a little larger, ap proximately the size of quarter-dollars. One of these card-party sets will make an excellent bridge prize, or may be an acceptable Christmas remembrance for the hostess who often entertains at auction. . Rnnset. I.lpptncotfs. A burst of glory to the western skv; The lonely twitter of a 'restless bird; A sense of pain, tho quivering of a sigh As with the beauty e'en the soul is stirred; A silence deep, unbroken by a word. The slipping; of a Day Into the Vale ot Years A Sun that shrlnks then dips, and dis- cppc&ra! RUSSIAN SUIT. WITH LONG WAIST BECOMING TO ALMOST ALL WOMEN Model of Casta.net Brown Broadcloth, With Distinctive Belt, Has Velvet Toque and Buttoned Boots to Match. Two Furs on Single Costume in Order This Winter. Cr ;f v.. -. s ' ' N I Iff 'J U - J MX . ' a 1 c i L I : - - , 11 - v n RUSSIAN suits are becoming to al most all women, which is one rea son for the popularity of this style. Anotlter reason is the youth ful suggestion of the Russian costume. Attractive Is - this Russian model of Castanet brown broadcloth which has a belt that is particularly distinctive with its broad front lap over shirred side pieces. Fur trims neck and cuffs and at the back there is th big cord ornament so much seen this season on handsome tailored wear. A brown vel vet toque and buttoned walking boots with brown cloth tops match the suit. Two furs on one costume are not at all surprising this Winter and this combination of snow-white ermine and dead white monkey on a black velvet tailored trotteur are quite In order and smart in the bargain. The long, monkey-edged tunic slopes slightly over a skirt, short enough to show but toned walking boots. Jet buttons of exaggerated size define the front open- Fussy Trimmings Absent in Blouse of Daphne Silk. Warm XeKlliree 'r Winter Morn logs Is of Dutch Blue Japanese Crepe Interlined With Albatross. ATTRACTIVELY .simple blouses for women who cannot stand fussy trimmings, are of daphne silk, made with long sleeves, a little fullness at the shoulder seam to give soft lines over the bust, and a kimono finish around the neck and down the front edges, that Is a flat facing on the out side which forms a narrow up-standing collar-band across the back of the neck. A blouse of this sort, of dark green daphne silk over white, has a kimono facing of black satin and within this a facing of equal width of white satin. The blouse crosses in kimono fashion at the bust and a single snap-fastener holds it 'in place. iThe rather severe neck finish is becoming because of the softness of the materials. A warm negligee for Winter morn ings is of Dutch blue Japanese crepe interlined as far as the waistline with white albatross. The kimono sleeves are not hemmed straight across, but are sloped downward toward the back in. deep points " from which depend white tassels. Over a snap-button fast ening is a cord ornament in blue and white and a narrow, stitched sash of the crepe, knotted pnee in front, re places the usual obi sash of the regu lation Japanese garment.. - Dancing frocks, wide skirted and edged with fur are graceful above dancing footwear of exceeding daint ness, the furry edge of the skirt mak ing the feet look all the. smaller and prettier. With these fur-bordered dance frocks,, when made of pale tinted even ing fabrics, are worn beaded er button-strapped slippers and fanciful stockings; when made of velvet or dark fabric for the afternoon the STOMACH UPSET? END INDIGESTI GAS SOURNESS i In Five Minutes! No Stomach Misery, Heartburn, Gases or Dyspepsia. Tou can eat anything your stomach craves without fear of indigestion or dyspepsia, or that your food will fer ment or sour on your stomach, if you will take Pape's Dlapepsin occasion ally. Anything you eat will be digested; nothing can ferment or turn into acid, poison or stomach gas, which causes belching, dizziness, a feeling of fullness after eating, nausea. Indigestion (like a . lump of lead in stomach), bilious ng, although the costume really closes with snap-fasteners, and closes high at the neck, the little collarette of er mine giving Just the right finish. The elongated waistline is empha sized In this attractive little bridge frock "of black pussy willow silk by crossed bodice fronts which slope downward to form a loosely knotted sash at the back. The narrow petti coat is of accordion pleated silk to match the frock, which has a polonaise cut, long basque and tunic being in one at the back. A smart turban of black velvet with a pleated ribbon cocade in biscuit and Colonial blue harmonizes with' the simple good taste of the frock. dancing skirt is accompanied by high heeled buttoned boots, with tops of fawn or coffee colored gaiter cloth and stockings of natural silk. Clover-leaf collars have flaring ex tensions cut in the rounded shape of a cloverleaf which fall from the top of tne coiiar over a wide stock of black silk. TOWNSHIP DEFIES LAW Necessity for Road Repairs Spurs People to Prastlc Action. NESQUEHOXIXG, Pa., Nov. 6. An unusual situation exists in Packer township, near Weatherly, where a mass meeting of taxpayers at the Hud sondale Chapel instructed the town ship road supervisors to go ahead with repairs to the portion of the state highway between Hudsondale and Weatherly. Under present laws the state has ab solute Jurisdiction over its roads. The townships have no ' authority in the matter of repairs. But the two and one-half'mile stretch of state high way has degenerated steadily from a Daa condition to almost impassability, and the indignation meeting was called to remedy conditions before Winter sets in. The state highwav deDart ment refuses to do anything with the roaos. DEER BESTS BULL IN FIGHT 6uck Is- Victor In Furious Battle With Defender of Herd. LEWISTOWN. Pa.. Nov. 6. Men husking corn on the W. J. Crissman farm, in Ferguson Valley, witnessed a battle' royal between a young bull in pasture and a buck deer that strayed from the mountain side. The bull, as the natural protector of -PAPE'S DIAPEPSIN ness heartburn, water brash, pain in stomach and Intestines. Headaches from stomach are absolutely unknown where Pape's Dlapepsin is used. It really does all the wprk of a healthy stomach. It digests your meals when your stomach can't.. It leaves nothing to ferment, sour and upset the stom ach. Get a large fifty-cent case of Pape's Dlapepsin from your druggist, then eat anything you want without the slightest discomfort or misery, besides every particle of impurity and gas that is in your stomach and intestines' will vanish. - - Should you be suffering now from indigestion or any stomach disorder, you can get relief in five minutes Adv. ON the herd, was nothing loath to accept the challenge, but was soon put to rout, and in gaining the barnyard leaped two fences. He was bleeding freely at the nose and ears. The deer remained with the herd until chased away by the men. ECZEMA IN MASS OF PIMPLES Itching Burning Sensation Unbear able. Severe Irritation. Used Cuticura Soap and Ointment. Free From Eczema. 2511- Bent St.. Cheyenne, Wyo. "My eczema appeared In the 'worst form; it looked like a great mass of pimples. The itching and burning sensation was unbear able and it was impossible for me to sleep for more than a half hour at a time so severe was the irritation. "After wo, tried medicines and other remedies which did not prove successful a neighbor told ua to try Cuticura Soap and Ointment. My mother obtained the Cuticura 8oap and Ointment and began using them Immediately. I washed my face and head thoroughly with the Soap and warm water and then applied the Ointment. I began to improve rapidly and within two weeks I was perfectly free from the eczema." (Signed) Maceo Cruse, Apr. 8. 1914. Samples Free -by Mail A generation of mothers has found no soap o well suited for cleansing and purifying the skin and hair of infants and children as Cuticura Soap. Its absolute purity and re freshing fragrance alone are enough to recommend It above ordinary skin soapc but there are added to these qualities dellcat yet effective emollient properties, derived from Cuticura .Ointment, which render it most valuable in overcoming a tendency to distressing eruptions and promoting a nor mal condition of skin and hair health. Cuticura Soap (25c) and Cuticura Oint ment (SOc) sold by druggists and dealers throughout the world. Liberal sample of each mailed free, with 32-p. book on the skin and scalp. Address postr-card "Cuti rura. Dept. T. Boston." One Cause of Bad Complexion the Cure "Look at & section of skin under the. microscope and you will readily understand why cosmetics generally Injure the complex ion." says Dr. H. Robert Mackenzie. "The skin, smooth as it looks to the naked eye. under the jrla&s exhibits a lacework of tiny holes, mouths of myriads of Utile glands. To keeD the skin healthy these boles must be unobstructed, that the perspiration and natural oil can have free outlet. Should the (lands be blocked up with irritating gritty Darticles. a common result of using powders and creams, feature retaliates by causing sallowness. rouehness. blotches or pimples. "As a substitute for all cosmetics I recommend ordinary mercolized wax. It not only does what the varfous face prepara tions aro supposed to accomplish, but lis peculiar absorbent action frees the pores from the dally accumulation of in,,,r,,i also nbsorbinK the devitalized particles of surface skin. This produces a natural healthy, youthful complexion Cm, n. ....... r this wax. to be had at any drugstore, usually suffices to reluvenate the poorest complex Ion. It Is put on nlKhtlv like col.l cream and washed off mornings." Family Phy sician. Adv. , i