THE SUNDAY OREGOXIANV PORTLAND, ' JANUARY 12, 1908. jjjglf 1 insit Newest Mid-Winter Raiment TIMS gowning of her last-born Is of ton h problem with the busy mother. "When the first baby or .two arrived on the scene, making the tiny coats, frocks, sacques and petticoats was a pleasutte. But as these babies grow Into bis boys and girls and other wee figures come to fill their places in cradle and high chair, the making of many small garments is apt to degenerate Into a burden almost grievous. Yet every mother should try to find pleasure in this sort of sewing, for never again In the children's lives will the re sults of her handiwork give her such pleasure. Atdaintly-dressed baby, from 13 mouths to 3 years, is a bright spot in any home circle. If the mother is burr dened by many household tasks or social duties, then she should press the elder daughters into this service, and teach them that dainty sewing can be turned to other uses than the making of handker f chief blouses and embroidered lingerie for themselves. Until a baby learns to creep or toddle about into all sorts of mischief damaging to frocks, white is the one hue to be chosen for all garments. Indoor or out door.. And, in fact, white Is the most economical hue, because It will wash and dry-clean as no delicate tint ever will. But the word "white' should not mean that babies do not need warm raiment, Just llko their elders. In Winter. Of course. In steam-heated homes or houses kept almost at mood-heat by furnaces or stoves, the wash fabrics -can be used ex clusively. The up-to-date mother, how ever, does not keep her home so hot, and therefore it Is often better to have , wool sllpa to wear under the white wash xroeks. For this purpose, the less expensive outing or wash flannel is the very best fabric. Do not select too tightly woven a piece, but allow for some "fulling" In the laundry. I have seen just the right weight In. outing flannel for these little mider-slips at 7 and t cents a yard, in white, cream, pale blue and pink. Both the white and pink launder admirably. Blue is apt to fade or "yellow." espe cially if allowed to freeze. These little lips should be made very plainly, with the plain coat sleeve, a semi-fitted waist or plain yoke and untrimmed skirt. The latter should be Just a trifle shorter than the outside wash garment. Ami talking of these little undcr-slips reminds me of something very pretty that I saw in a shop devoted exclusively to Infants' wear. In a complete baby out- iii iiiic wic umi a. uuzcil ol tnese ULLie flannel underslips, with overdresses to match. That is. the little dresses were made of white lawn with a -band of flowered lawn just above the hem, at the cuffs and around the neck, in a tint to match the underslip. If the undersllp was pink, the overdress was of white lawn, and the band-trimming showed pink roses, and tiny moss rosebuds of your grandmother's time . and' mine. If the undersllp was blue, very delicate ragged robins appeared in the colored hands. The band above the hem was about three inches wide and the wrist and neck bands were an inch or less. The little kimono sleeve is much seen this Winter on frocks for toddlers, arrd on telr littlev sacques for house wear, but all heavjt coat sleeves for outdoor wear are either bishop-soaped or on the simpler mannish coat sleeve lines. . All well-dressed children of tender years give the appearance of simplicity, but in reality there has never been a time when such exquisite care was taken In selecting fabrics and setting hand stltches. Handkerchief linen, batiste, fin est of lawns And nainsook. - these enter Into all the tiny frocks for best or after noon wear, and when lace is used, it is the finest of French or German Val. or real Torchon, than which no lace wears better. Hand-embroidery, either In satin stitch, convent or eyelet patterns. Is used to the exclusion of the machine-made in sertions' and edging, and the scallop, so popular on blouses and lingerie worn by Big Sister, appear! also on Babf's gar ments. " Some very pretty designs for this same baby are shown today. Especially ef . fectlve Is the little coat and cap to Hints on the FADS may come and fads may go, but .the card party remains a sure and favorite means of entertaining friends Informally, or of meeting .more serious social obligations. The new comer In a small town, conservative little city or suburban circle Is oft times '"Judged by her card-party man ner j, hence It !s Just as well for every woman and her good man to brush these up. If a neighbor telephones or sends a. note, asking you to come over the runic evening, or the next, and make up a table at whist, or pinochle, or euchre, or hearts, this does not consti tute formal entertaining, yet you should decide promptly, and, having Hccepte'd the Invitation, keep your en gagement. It is only courteous, also, to your host and hostess to dress pret tily. This does not mean an evening frock, and neither does It mean that you can run over in your short tweed or ralny-dny skirt with a flannel shirt waist and linen collar. It means a pretty house dress, a cashmere or silk, with skirt and waist matching. Your hostess will probably offer some light refreshment, and, if she is up-to-date, will prepare this In a chafing-dish, around which you all gather. If the evening wanes and no refresh ments are offered, you need not think that your hosts are Inhospitable, nor does this bar you from offering some light refreshment when they return the rail. I think that on the whole it is rather better, especially on cold Win tor nights, to offer refreshments, how pvm small the number of players may b. For tho formal card party Invita tions are Rent out anywhere from a week to two weeks in advance, so that the hostess may be sure of filling her tables with desirable guests. Regrets or acceptances should be sent prompt ly, and if an emergency arises after, the invitation has been accepted, the hostess should be notified at once, so that she may Invite a substitute or arrange for one less table. U it is an afternoon party for women alone, then you wear your prettiest culling or reception gown, furs, hat, v-hlte gloves, etc. If It is evening and the party is large, you wear a frock rut with a Dutch or small square or "V" neck at lenst. Gloves are worn to the house, either afternoon or even ing, but removed for playing. Ir mrfny of the large cities women retain their hats at informal afternoon card parties, but some hostesses object to this cus tom and prefer that all guests should remove their hats, giving the rooms & more homelike and gracious aspect. Knch. town might be said to be & law unto itself in this matter. Whin a public euchre or whist party match, which any home-sewer can evolve with very little trouble. The coat is in box style, without any trimming save the braiding on collar, cuffs and turn-back strip or facing down the front. Incidentally, drooping lace collars, floating ribbons and similar ef fects are not seen on baby coats this Winter. The model shown for this coat STRAIGHT SKIRT WITH POINTED YOKE. was of ivory-white ottoman silk, and the facings, cuffs, collar, etc., were of Ivory broadcloth,.- braided with soutache. This tiny, snug-fitting turnover collar is much better for the' Winter coat than the. deeper sailor shape. The coat would be just as effective if developed in white corduroy, which, by the way, tubs admirably, trimmed with braid or broadcloth facings. Or it looks well In white bear-cloth. The cap should be made in the same material; and has a turn-back, square finish which may be heavily braided or trimmed with tiny bands of fur with animal heads to match, such as ermine or otter. For both coat and cap about three yards of material 44 inches wide will be necessary for a child of three or four years. Next to the coat, a warm ' little gar ment Is shown, the nightingale made from fine French flannel, with scalloped edges and tiny flowers embroidered in the scallops. This Is Just the thing baby Etiquette of the Card Table is given for charity, particularly in a hotel or club parlor, hats are not re moved. Neither are general Introduc tions necessary. The patronesses or man agers of the affair usually receive ar rivals at the door of the reception room or first parlor, and all who buy . tickets may feel free to converse with their fellow-players without an .Introduction. On the other hand, it is not necessary to carry this Informal acquaintance - beyond the doors. The booby prize has practically disap peared from the card parlors this. Winter. A first prize for the best man -player and the best woman player is given, and then consolation prizes to those who make the next best scores. Sometimes even three MGHTIVGM.K OK FRKCH FI.ANKEU prizes are awarded, but two for each sex Is sufficient. Refreshments for the afternoon card party are simple or elaborate, accord ing to the number of guests and the character of the function. At a simple formal gathering, tea or coffee or chocolate, with sandwiches or wafers, will be sufficient. For the more formal affairs the hot drink, bouillon, creamed oysters, Newburghs. salads. Ices and cakes are also served. Nuts and can dies are passed all the afternoon, punch may also be served during the games. The salted nuts and candies should be dry and(crisp or they will soil the finger tips and interfere with the card-playing. For the evening party, some hot re freshments are absolutely essential, and for both afternoon an.d evening the refreshments are served at the tables, where the players remain when the the games are finished. In the average house, the large card party overflows the parlor Into the reception hall, li for the Babies needs for the moment when the furnace heat fails or tho blizzard swoops down before there is time to start up extra fires. It is made in one piece and the sleeves are formed by tying the slashes together with ribbons .matching in color the embroidery and scalloped edging.. For the wee toddler there- is nothing prettier than the plain straight Skirt, hung from a yoke, and on ; this yoke should appear the only trimming em ployed. Two pretty yoke shapes are shown- today, one in a point and another In three scallops, back and front. Either could be decorated with eyelet work or convent embroidery. When the latter Is used, have alternate strips of hand-run tucks and tiny French vine patterns, or you can combine French Val. insertion, very narrow, 'with strips of hand em broidery. For the scalloped yoke, the all over English eyelet patterns, not too large or heavy, are best. Even the hems of these dainty little frocks must be done by hand, and. It any ruffling Is used around neck and wrist-bands. It must be no more than half an inch in width. brary and dining-room, making a sup per table quite out of the question. Nowhere does, the newcomer show her innate breeding more clearly than while the game is in progress. How ever much she may -yearn to distin guish herself at this, her first appear ance In the card-playing set, she must not allow her desire to score points to lead her into rudeness toward her part ners. I know of mdre than one womaan dropped from . a card-playing set sim ply because she could not control- her greed for prizes and her sharp tongue when her partner made some trifling mistake. . A card party, formal or" informal,' de mands a call within a fortnight. If your husband is a. busy man, but found time to attend the evening function, you must leave his card when you pay your own call, or rather, you leave one of your own for the hostess and two of your husband's cards, one for the host and one for the hostess. It is even better, how ever. If your husband has no other time, to pay your call together on a Sunday afternoon, for even in the smaller cities today Sunday afternoons are much given to calling, and many hostesses announce that they will be home with their hus bands every Sunday between 3 and 5. The American man is very apt to accept the hospitality, which gives blm an even ing's pleasure and trust the duty-call to his wife, but she will do well to occa sionally urge him out for the Sunday afternoon calls. Hair Advice. A little care every day is absolutely necessary if you would have glossy locks that will stay in place. Brushing gently, but not roughly forcing a brush through the tangles, massaging morning and night. If only for flvq minutes each time, and ventilating as often as possible, are the three essential treatments. Then add the shampoo as often as needed. A word of advice regarding hairpins. Do not buy wire pins. They cut and break the hairs, and are exceedingly injurious to the scalp, as the sharp points -irritate it. The celluloid ones cost more, but they are the only hairpins that a woman should wear, if she values her crowning glory. . Melting and Boiling Points. ! ' Technical Literature. The following table, taken from The Mining World, is based on the authority of Dr. J. A. Harker. of the National Phy sical Laboratory o'f" England, and is an 1 PKRPjLEXED in matters of beauty . or etiquette, write to Miss Dean.- Mira .Morton or Miss Standi sh, care of The Sunday Oreonian, en-, closing a self-addrewed "and stamped envelope for reply. This la a quicker method than having your question answered In the columns pt the paper. Beside, you receive a. personal. -Intimate answer. Be careful to address your return envelope accurately. Let ters come back to us every day, -stamped . "insufficient address," or "party cannot be found." important reference table for' scientific and tethnical workers: . '" Centi- Fahren- Boltirac points. -'' grade.. heit. Liquid hydrogen. ..Z .. . 25:: . 23 Liquid oxygen 182 295 Mercury (freezing) ."$... 39. : US Wafer a 7rtO mm. pressure... 100 212 Sulphur -at TOO mm. pressure. 443 t So. Bleltins- points. Tin 212- 440 Lead ..; - 427 v '1120 Zinc! 419 T Antimony 6.T.2 ! Aluminum -. t.n 1214 Common satt. 800 '142 Silver (in air) (155 ... 1751 Gold -., -10B4 1947 Copper (In alr... 1O02 - 1941! Copper (in reducing atmos phere) .. lOM ' 1RS3 Nickel .' 1427 2G00 Pure iron 1503 - -- 2773 Card Party; es Cheese ,' end 'Nut Sandwiches Chop the meats of 25" hickory nuts, almonSs, or any . nut you have on hand. Add them to a cream cheese and 'a dozen olives chopped ' very fine.- ...Spread . on thin slices of white bread. ' Mixed Sandwiches Cut fine one cup of any ,oold meat,.-such as turkey, chicken or veal. one. cup " of nutmeats chopped .finely, one box of - sardines, four small cucumber pickles chopped very fine. Add plenty of lemon juice and mix well. Spread on lettuce leaves between white bread. This sandwich is also very delicious with mayonnaise dressing. - - ; ',..'' . ' Peanulj, sandwich Chop the rrnats very fine, or . put through a coffee mill, salt to taste and add a little sherry or port wine to- make a thick paste. This is much better than the peanut butter. 'which can bepurc!iased already pre pared. -- ' ' . - .' . Orange and Date Salad Remove the pulp and inner skin - from six oranges and one grapefruit, -and break them into very . sma'll pieces. Mix-this 'with one pound of dates that have " been stoned and cut into fine strips, and a half cup of. nutmeats chopped rather fine. Serve on lettuce leaves with the following dressing: The yolks of two eggs beaten very light, and add half a cup of powdered sugar, and one cup of sherry or port.. If wine is not liked, use a cup of orange juice with a table-, spoon of lemon Juice in it. - ' "; . -A BouiIlon--Two pounds of .beef. One pound of bones, two quarts of,olt water,, one tablespoon of salt, four whole" pep. percorns, four cloves. Wash the 'meat and bones and add the water, season And let. simmer for two or three hours." Boil down to one quart, strain and let It cool. Then remove the fat that has arisen, heat again and It is ready to serve. - - Creamed Oysters Melt " two , table spoons of butter in a saucepan, and add to. It two heaping spoons of flour,, cook for a few moments, and stir in gradually two cups of milk which, has been heated. Wash and pick over carefully one quart of oysters, boil them In their own liquor, then drain and add to the cream- Salt and pepper to taste. If necessary to thin, add a little oyster juice. Two table spoons of sherry will also give a nice flavor to this dish. Creamed . Chicken One' pint of chicken -meat already cooked, one-half cup of cream, two tablespoons of butter, two tablespoons of flour - and - a little chopped parsley. Melt the flour and but ter, pour in the cream very slowly and work until smooth. Stir in the chicken meat and parsley, which have been chopped in medium pieces, and cook for five or ten minutes. This can be served on tost. f " 1 BOX COAT AND CAP TO MATCH.. " Hair Hints to Suit the Spring Millinery jar- LREADY Earls is. sending advance J news abouff pring millinery, and ' the first models' point a moral to the woman who would be strictly up-to-date. She must look well to her hair. Its condition and modes of-dressing. The hat tilted on the left' side to show well-groomed tresses beneath. STRAIGHT SKIRT WITH and the tiny toque with .sharp wings On either side, for all ' the- world like Mercury's cap, lead all hat shapes. This last means hair to set .off the hat, not a bat to:'set off the hair, so Tit is none too soon to- get your 'hair in prime condition if you would meet the Spring and Summer styles half way. There will be no friendly shadows of drooping crowns and thick veils to hide care lesslyrdressed tresses this coming sea son. ''-. Home-Made Prizes for Afternoon Card Parties THE matron, the bride ahd the . debutante alike find the after noon card party a pleasant way f entertaining girl friends. .; And in making their calculations the prizes always present a problem, particularly if various parties are toJte given dur ing the ' season and purse strings are none too loose. . Of course, if money is no object, the hostess will have ,no trouble in making her selections at novelty shops, but for the afternoon Perhaps the most important item in the condition of the hair is cleanli ness. You may have' hair that reaches below your waist," but' If you neglect to shampoo it, and it hangs dead and oily, then the girl with the hair to her shoulders, who keeps it clean ' and bright, will make a far better showing. YOKE! Iff THREE SCALLOPS. " Time was when there was a set rule for shampooing the hair once a month. This rule cannot be applied to every woman, for the girl with oily hair should shampoo it once a week, while all blondes should -shampoo every other week" at. least. Neither will the samt shampoo preparation serve for all heads. The girl whose hair Is nat urally dry needs a stimulating sham poo with oil in It to feed the scalp, while the. girl with over-much oil party with only women to consider as prize-winners, home-stitchery and in genuity will do wonders. This is an epoch of daintiness, and no end of lovely things can be made for the room or ' person of the fortunate player dainty things which are sure to be pronounced well worth the winning. It seems to be a year of boxes. Large boxes, small boxes, square, ob long and round boxes, and boxes -for every conceivable purpose. Most of these the home sewer can manufac ture quite as prettily as those- to be purchased at the department stores. One of the prettiest prizes that you could possibly -offer is a set of three boxes, one -for veils, rather long and about half as wide as It Is long, another for gloves, which Is oblong, and a . third one for handkerchiefs, which must, of course, bo square. These should be covered all alike with cretonne of dainty French figures, with foulard, or with pink or blue mus lin, and overlaid " finally with net or lace. - Hinges of tiny satin ribbon must be put on them, and they should be lined In matching colors. tJnder the inner lining shake a little sachet pow der, that the little accessories of dress put into them may have a dainty odor. I kpow of no girl who would not be overjoyed at winning such a prize. The boxes you can procure at a candy shop, for they need be of no stronger material than ordinary cardboard. Or your druggist often will glvo you soap boxes that are of quaint shape. System of Numbering Shoes ( T IS the hardest thing in the world I for me," said a busy man the other day, "to remember the- sizes of my dif ferent articles of wearing apparel. Col lars, shirts and gloves . are easy enough because there it's a matter of actual Inches, but where they get the hat and shoe, numbers is what beats me, and why I have an 11 stocking under an 8 shoe is another mystery. The last puzzle is " easily explained. Stockings have always been measured by the inch from heel to toe, but the num bering of shoes was fixed a long time ago by a Frenchman and It's so long ago that only one New York dealer could' be found who knew anything about it. Even he didn't know the inventor's name. . The Frenchman permanently fixed the numbers of shoes for all Europe and America. He arbitrarily decided that no human foot could possibly be smaller than three and seven-eighths inches, so calling this point zero he allowed one third of an Inch to a size and so built up his scale. Consequently a man cannot find out the number of his own shoe un less he is an expert at exact arithmetic. And even then he is likely to go wrong, because all ' shoe-experts allow for the weight of the individual and the build of his foot before they try to determine what-size shoe he ought to wear. As far as women's shoes are concerned the problem Is still more difficult be cause many of the manufacturers instead should use a shampoo containing in gredients which tend to dry up the superfluous grease. For- the average head, the following shampoo Is very beneficial: Yolk of one egg, one pint of rain water (lukewarm) and one ounce of rosemary spirits. Beat the mixture thoroughly and use it warm, rubbing It well Into the scalp. Rinse In many waters and dry the hair in the sun and open alr lf possible. Always select a dry, sunshiny day for shampooing. ,.'.-. Sometimes a dry shampoo is - very beneficial and Imparts to tho hair a pleasing odor. ' If any of my readers who would like such a. formula will send me a stamped and self addressed envelope, I should be glad to send it to them". " . But do not think that shampooing 4ho"hair now and then will serve' to keep it- fluffy nd in generally good condition. Your -hair needs dally at tention, jusV as other parts of your body. Many girls have parted their hair so long In one place that little bald spots begin to appear, "or the hair fails, to grow thickly &bout the tem- ' pies. Nothing is better for this con dition than pure vaseline, but be care ful wken putting It on to rub it Into the scalp and not get it all over the hair. - Be careful to use combs and brushes of good quality, and above all things, avoid the wire brush you might as well scratch your scalp with numberless pins. Choose a brush with good bristles, not too hard, and a- comb of celluloid or shell, rather, than rubber. At least once a week ven tilate your hair by running your fingers .through it and tossing It so that the air reaches the scalp; and the oftener you sit In the sun with your hair hanging loosely down your back, the better. And most important or all, massage the scalp today, tomorrow and every day. This is worth all the tonics In the world, for tonics are of no avail poured on the whole mass of hair. To be of real benefit, the tonic must be rubbed Into the scalp by massage. Especial care should be given to the hair when it starts to grew about the forehead. New hairs are apt to -show themselves here,' and no amount of hair dressing will cover up ' an unsightly ragged line about the face. To keep this In good condition a massage oil of equal parts of vaseline and pure almond oil is beneficial. These two ingredients should be warmed together and ' applied while still warm about twice a week massag ing the lotion well Into the scalp. Girls who have blonde hair that Is apt ' to take on a faded look will find great benefit In using a mixture of fine yellow corn -meal and orris root. Spread a large piece of old linen; over the side of your bed, - and . let your head hang over this.' a Then rub the corn meal mixture well into the scalp and through the hair. Shake out and rub In more of the mixture. Re peat this several times, then take a rather soft brush and brush gently until there is no meal left in the hair. This the blonde girl-should do once every week. It is cleansing as well as stimulating. Frequent changing of the method of wearing your hair is very beneficial. If you are in the habit of parting your hair in the middle, part it at one side for a ' few days. If your hair Is heavy and you wear it high on- your head, let it hang down your back in a braid once In a while. In this way the continual strain on one part of the head is relieved. The newest aprons are made of wash ribbon with Dresden figures scattered . over it. Four strips of this ribbon about , four Inches wide are joined together with German Valenciennes Insertion, less than ! an inch in width, and around the whole apron is sewed an edge matching the in sertion. The corners should be rounded and the apren finished with a band of , the ribbon with strings of the same edged , with the lace. This charming little gift ; will make a most attractive prize and is really very practical if made of the wash ribbon, which will stand many, many washings with ,a pure soap. A nightgown case Is something that : few girls possess, as it Is a fashion just I stolen from our French sisters, who love ' dainty fittings for their bedrooms. These, 1 cases are made of heavy white linen bound with pink or blue wash ribbon an inch in width. In shape they are exactly like a large envelope about 18 Inches square.' On the flap of the case or en velope can be embroidered a wreath or ! some conventional design matching the ribbon binding. You must make also a long, narrow sachet and slip It inside the case to scent the gown, and the case gen erally rests at the foot of the bed during the day. Hand-made corset covers are always ac- ' ceptable, and my space is too limited for me to go into the many possibilities of : neckwear, bu't I. can safely say that no girl can have too many charming neck pieces in this day when all well-dressed girls need about a dozen or more. - MARY. DEAN. of keeping to the regular scale have marked down their numbers one or two sizes in order to capture easily flattered customers. For this reason most dealers ask out-of-town customers to send an old shoe with their order. The system of measuring hats is much simpler. Any man can tell what size he wears by simply adding the width and length of-the inner rim and then dividing by two. Orders can also be sent to the shopkeeper by stating the circumference of the head. The Women bo Walt. Minna Irving In the Boston Pilot. , He went to the war in the morning " . The roll of the drums could be heard. But he paused at the gate with his mother For a kiss and a comforting word. Be was full of the dreams and ambitions That youth is so ready to weave. And proud of the clank of his saore . And the chevrons of gold on his sleeve. He came from the war in the evening The meadows were sprinkled with snow. The drums and the bugles were silent. And the steps of the soldiers were slow. He was- wrapped In the flag of his country When they laid him away In the mold, . -with the glittering stars of a captain Replacing the chevrons of gold. "With the heroes who sleep on the hillside He lies with a flag at bis head, But, blind with the years of her weeping. His mother yet mourns for her dead. The soldiers. who fall In the battle May feel but a moment of pain. But the women who waft in the homesteads Must dwell with the ghosts of the slain.