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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (Jan. 29, 1905)
1 QUAINT EFFECTS IN THE MID-WINTER GOWNS j ""- jyaJB?" ft IX. Itmii ataW lar ta aaatet W- i IfCl. MM aalrm. Iktr at r Jtlx-r af nW iMi & Bar Maal 4 mm aMai braaf mt n rtia aac dMe Irw ta tiMir lead vri ad ltmma.it. nrntt i wfc M taa4 atone Vary aaitat ad xv tk rf a)u. ta -fttacw natwat aaa Jor tfc- itotrfr wiiiy tMwri eauMi th it WttMai MMtbrvi Wen raw rMMr t M-aat ad ttu mm rtal ai atrn MirlniH rral M-tV 9r a -MU I rif ar wr Dorothy 5KUTH JtVlort lt 1mm. 15. M ily Xma Smwmmr. If a hmB 1mo flMtartMC mmmmr hrmA Mir i i mtmt tat Wtftrr. mm mm myrtiw It U m OapM te mm lo in MwMt. gar mmu ta 4tti ii ajiiiiw all mmm i H, Mary. TV SmUm re mtigmt 1 mm faaaafea; - rttMmr ramas ta Uatawu mm rim. fa taiMritai af rfctiKwHX wMI aa arana Mi tfcr farta a aflka I Till I aac ivwwiT fi.ilaliaa. VftaV tar naa , att M iW d Strl w inn amiii aw aamaria: m laapir j a kM j iiwii Mar M(M Ml fMa wwdi M carrr bar aa rvaaat ta raa r iiill mmmmmm4 ta faary - iiptfai raai a om aaraal Maaa . In fact. It w mm aaaaaraMW vflatofc mi 4c tfet (artin trmm atwrm I feaar jturt wanaua aataMr mm Waaa I niM aaataar taiHail av laaaMaa. I Satttr iawa T MM mf te tac Mr aaaOMa. mg mmtmtmf S wXaBfwaatoatf M Vaa Oatf rare, afea "1 Aim at m m l nli. Jnawrr iMaaata af aaavaaaft auMt ggmmmmm ailaac aaa Caac mm ar if urtax war jar Jtraaaa, A variaot if the I afauiii n 1a aMfc. warm In lld. Plata M BNfci barter. Wat the Mftwc Jtlvea wtace ta i; waaao. K 14ch hat yMMk. I ageta mi in-atai iu. teat to a atare Kwr ,' wwar emwttmert fcs a gat la ter. mm mmm m a Dm faddist ' aaaa a w4i m Ump vtaadard coor-taja- F ta-awas aad at drams I a lain aUmr ebarmrfr. it ta aatiwra Mi f4taatr WH for cmaMaatleR , wttB rarlati till iilgirr. Iar ana Mack -tvi It m riliai i tMat ta awrrd a bWMMT waavwa. sucm as www win aa ta mm f taw extrm. lMaiMir Imt rmmi am. waUratng lc ar tk Ubt aiirtg rtfrt worn by air ntimu - junaawmiiir Quirtrical aatu rtw a-W V- ma4 bat HuV. TV f-rt -arir ta Un saaaa ta Ih truiani frtaw a a trtaiilas baa failed. gf "Our Town" on lalttjr at taaabaM am Jaaaary the 17th t 1 - a'daek. Storaraiy ymmre. -TXMW3THV OOODK-- Maratto. Hmim. Matca. tmorMf aftrraaaa iaaa tnmm& lata Awta mrmm&yum. fHJasIr anikyd l laacbeon fraokK. aiarjurw ware vmU roa4etoUi. faaaVy tflanaai mitt bi and cnatne tafai. I war a ymaHar ahaae af Mae lIiiK Dak ttw wntte fax set that mde wi mm far CariftaMM. Oa aaionai; Mm. Vaa Cau's big faare JmUL a mmd a ylaiatat sarartre. far we vrt atwinid ta aa add Hgyatlaa dan. wanv wii warn tm a-altiag M take aat mmtf avr wraac Mat farx. bat aar bats! Of win, at baaM alway rcoave oar mt at a laatawa. bat bere. with tfee naM namhamg laaaly ta Ms date, avery rfttax l aaa aaW4di aad farnwll)-. aad ac Umr MMjartty af laarwnom and break full wr m laid k aly our heavy wntf a at a rtrftfaa. At Mrs. Drexel. Smmtaf mmtUrt WeakteC the atber neoa yum m aat eia tat aawa ta table. but mmm4 mm im the Mmtmc-romm. to me Mrved br b Men la atedf and after that rhti4 a fw raoBMit and nHnoed list "f at .i afttr'O' Tht i.r rXfj.it wax la txvex of a young girl THE SUNDAY OREGONIAN, PORTLAND, SAOTAEY 29, 1905. save as it appears on the cads of scarfs and aasfee. but heavy braids woven into Jar waaiatmls and chenille appHques of sli arta. together trith bunion trimming, are aeea very generally. An imported gown which shows many of the features above mentioned is a combination of prune mescaline and vel vet with heavy braid trimming In self toae. The skirt is built in panels, set off br tiny hand-run tucks, each panel b4nu edged with a fine fold of the velvet and rmall velx'et buttons. The little vel vet bolero has a V-shaped front crossing at the waist line and defined by an ap pMque of band embroidery in this same toae, and the little garment is faced all the way around with a tiny ruffle of silk lace. The sleeve la overlaid with a caie Mke emplecement. trimmed heavily with pMrred cords to simulate braid. The blouse in of white Bilk net. trimmed with maay ruffles of Chantilly lace, and the V-shaped point in the front is strapped with shirred cordlngs of the satin. "With tMs costume is worn a modltlcation of the old-fashioned poke bonnot done in white mousFellne and edged with silk Manners & She wha Iulh made a hit with a new book, and is being lionized quite a bit by the smart poaale. Bat. to return to our luncheon. Mrs. Van Cett and May both rose as we en tered the drawing-room, and the latters very colf-satlsfled. complacent look when ihe effered us her hand, should have araased our suspicions. Only buds, the smartest in Aunt Eleanor's set, by the way (forgive my modesty) were present, fo aur innnocence may be forgiven. " There Is one satisfying feature con nected with entertaining in Kew York. Guests, as a rule, are punctilious about MTtviag or the minute. Unless a wheel fWe off their carriage or they are ar roMcd far raetor-scorching. they all reach the borne of the hostess within ten min utes of the hour named on the invitation, sa there its no tiresome wait. Therefore, at 1:30 exartly. when the last of the 14 buds cre&aed the threshold of the drawing-room, the ail-wise butler appeared be tween the curtains and said quietly: "Luncheon 1 served." Mr. Van Cott led the way to the dln-'.ng-room. and as there was no guest of .oner. rre took her place at what might be termed the head of the round table. lace to match that used on the bodice, and here Is tucked a white silk rose. White plumes and ties of mousscllne caught with roses complete the pic turesque chapeau. Pleats are laid upon pleats to secure picturesque effects and an immense sweep at the foot of the gown. A Parisian frock of moss-gray mousscllne and vel vet is pleated in very thick and flat at the waist line beneath a pointed bodice, and falls in the dlrectoire folds to the feet, lying on the ground several inches all the way around. With this Is worn an odd little Jacket which hangs in similar pleats from the yoke piece hidden by the revers, heavily braided with sli ver bullion. Of all the street garments, nothing can compare for plcturesqueness with the vel vet redlngote. which Is worn with cloth, silk and velvet skirts. It fits tightly to the figure at the back and sides, a full basque being seamed on Just where the waist terminates. Instead of over the hips, while the sleeves are nearly always Attends a Betrothal Luncheon and Tells All About the Function & with May directly opposite, while wo found our places between the two, on cither side, by means of dainty plate cards, hand-painted, with tiny love knots and wreaths of roses. - . By the way, I want to explain a clever trick for altering the size of your round table. The highly polished or Inlaid top Is of regulation size and then you have made to order several larger tops, from plain, hard wood, around which may be seated varying numbers cf guests. This is, of course, hidden by the silence cloth and gleaming damask. If a bore table with open-work doylies Is desired, then the smaller polished top must be used. Mrs. Van Cotfs top cloth was of very fine, plain linen with a deep border and broad circular centerpiece of filet lace. The only floral decoration was a slender cut-glass Vase holding perfectly formed pink rosebuds, not more than a dozen blossoms. I imagine. There Is a marked revival of simple, airy effects In table decorations, and great ribbon bows, cor rage bouquets or luncheon souvenirs are considered bad form. The only touch of color on Mrs. Van Coifs table were the roses, candle shade? and bon bons, all in delicate pink, while the paper In the leg-o'-mutton form, with big, turned-back gauntlet cuffs, and, perhaps, a tight silk undercuff elaborately em broidered. The coat generally opens over one of the new low waistcoats, on which, as often as not, are embroidered the most elaborate sprays of flowers In shaded silks or wools, or conventional designs of all descriptions, while a binding of old gold or silver braid or lace makes a very effective finish. They are reminis centthese little embroidered vests of the days when men and women alike wore the richest of lace Jabots out of the priceless stores hidden away In old mahogany bureaus, and the present de mand for lace Is so great that It is nearly as Important an Item today as it was then. Fur bands and rare lace are also used for trimming these redlngotes. Draped effects are much seen In evening coats and look well on the woman who has height and a good carriage. Sometimes these long cape-like garments reach al most to the feet and are draped pic turesquely over the left shoulder. Again the cape Is cut shorter and laid In close cases in which the sweetbreads were served, were precisely the same color. The service was admirably handled by the butler and a footman in house livery, and two maids could have done It just as well, though 16 of us were at table The first course was the Inevitable grape fruit with maraschino flavoring and cher ries. The bouillon was served In low, broad cups with double handles, and I am planning to bring home a set of these for our china closet They offer the daintiest method of serving soup or broth, and small, deep silver spoons come to use with them. The fish course I thought far too rich for girls going the gastronomic pace we arc. It was some sort of deviled shell fishcrab, I think but very tasty when served with thin, buttered slices of brown bread. After this came a chicken patty, and then sweetbreads in cases with French peas. The process of digestion was then halted with a sherbet colored a delicate pink and served In high, slen der glasses, which are just now enjoying quite a vogue. After this, squabs with heart of romaine salad and French dress ing. Exquisitely delicate cakes were served with the Ice cream, which came fine pleats attached to a very short yoke, which is hidden by ornate embroideries or a bit of fur. Cloth Is used for the more severe of these capes and some stunning studies are shown In the various shades of to bacco brown. For opera wear these garments are evolved from chlffon-vel-vet, which pleats with remarkable soft ness. A charming- example shows rose pink velvet with a chenille collar and a band of exquisite Irish crochet lace In deep points headed by tiny ruchings of the velvet. There Is a shallow yoke which insures a smooth fit over the shoul ders, and to this a sleeve cape Is applied In deep shlrrings, so cleverly that the presence of the sleeve Is not noticed un til the arm Is raised. For wear with the exquisite theater gowns of net and mousseline come the quaintest of poke bonnets adapted in shape, of course, to the requirements of he 20th-century belle, with Just enough of the old-time flavor to make them fascinating. Such a bonnet developed in individual figures, miniature Cupids In pale strawberry cream, carrying gilded bows and arrows. This course prepared us for the announcement which came with the coffee, when Mrs. Van Cott said very quietly, "It gives me great pleasure to feel that you, who have shared with my daughter the pleasures of her first season in society, should be. also, tho first to hear of her engagement to Mr. John Douglas Cartwright. Their mar riage will occur at Easter." There was one of those trying, breath less instants of utter amazement, and ben we came out of the trance (for be it known that May is one of the young est debutantes) and wished her much joy. As young Cartwright is enormously rich, we thought Mrs. Van Cott should come in for sincere congratulations, which we offered in an eminently guarded fashion. The Van Cott have more standing than money, but I believe May Is really In love with her gilded fiance. Anyhow, it was a really jolly half-hour we spent In the drawing-room, and May, with all her blase ways, warmed up to us as she never has before during the season. And now I presume there will be a succession of dinners and teas In honor from shirred and plisse chiffon has st crown of the fur back variety, with a brim describing a graceful scoop. It sets close to the head In the back and flares) In the front to show frills of silk lace and pole blush roses tucked against the hair. The top of the hat is trimmed with butterfly bows of pale pink liberty satin ribbon, which Is drawn down In thar tack and tied under the chin In bows. With these poke bonrets are shown marvelous neck pieces en suite, end for the bonnet described above the suitable boa should be made of the pink liberty ribbon and mousseline combined witn the rosae. As a rule the rpsas am made of the ribbon, as the American woman haa not yet taken the artificial flower to her hoarr, save in millinery. The English im portations, however, show boas, stoles and muffs literally encrusted with the fa miliar silk, muslin or chiffon flowers. Thi del'cate colorings ore employed quite generally when the hat, stole and muff are en suite, and if the gown Is of vel vet this fabric is introduced into the muff at least. KATHERINE AXDERSON. of the pair until Lent breaks in upon us. j Aunt Eleanor has decided to open tho 1 country place for Lent, rather than go ; South, for one can hardly escape the She has written Dickey Fcrrall to spend a fortnight with us at Idlecrest, and I hope business will make it possible for him to come. I may be getting a bit homesick at any rate, I'll be glad to see some one from home. With love. DOROTHY". Cleaning Carpets. The following is a good receipt for a compound which will clean carpetsr Make a suds with a good white soap and hot water, and add fuller's earth to this until it Is the consistency of thin cream. Have plenty of clean drying cloths, a small scrubbing brush, a- large sponge and a pall of fresh water. Put some of the cleaning mixture In a bowl and dip the brush in It. Brush a small piece of the carpet with this, then wash with the sponge and cold water. Dry as much as possible with the sponge and finally rub with the dry cloths. Continue this until certain all the carpet is cleaned and then let dry-
