28
THE SUNDAY OEEGONIAN. PORTLAND, FEBRUARY 1, 1903.
TALES OF THE TAIL ACCCRDING TP PRESENT FASHION
NEW FAD FOR PENDANT DECORATIONS
IS NOW AT ITS HEIGHT SABLES
IN FANTASTIC FORMS
TTO CHRONICLE the fashions In this,
the waning "Winter season, is lit
erally to spin the talo of tho tall.
Dame Fashion has decreed that anything
pendant is good, and it looks Just now
as If Summer would llnd the average
woman looking like an animated Christ
mas tree.
There are tails Innumerable on the furs,
to say nothing of stoics that are merely
two tails sweeping to tile ground. There
arc capes made of tails in fur, brocade
and lace, with ends and bows In the front
that come to the hera of the dress. Vests
are formed of ribbons crossed or latticed
to the waist line, from which the ends
fall to the feet. Jet and iridescent orna
ments finish off the ends of slender rib
bons falling from revcrs, collars and gir
dles, while even the elbow seems a con
venient point from which to hang some
thing. But as talis attach themselves to every
other article of raiment, they grow less
pronounced on hats. Tho exaggerated
draperies which mark tho opening of the
season are being curtailed Into more con
servative, and certainly more artistic,
lengths. Long streamers of lace and vel
vet ribbon adorn picture hats worn with
lace frocks at receptions and other after
noon functions, but for evening, feathers
are taking precedence as trimming, and,
instead of the drapery in the back, one
sees the graceful fall of an ostrich plume.
No woman now has the temerity to turn
her plumes toward the front of her hat.
Everything points to tho back, and many
tips touch the napo of the neck and even
the shoulders.
At the recent opening of a new problem
play, where one is sure to see the smart
set out In force, a young matron wore a
gown of pale blue broadcloth, with panels
of Irish lace. Her hat created a veritablo
sensation. It was a toque of forget-me-nots,
and, starting in the center of tho
crown, a Jet black ostrich plume snuggled
among the flowers until It reached the
back, then bent sharply and.swcpt down
below the nape of tho neck.
At another theatrical opening, whero
foregathered what might be termed the
smart Bohemian set, and more especially
the Twelfth-NIghters, a prominent club
woman appeared lu a costume as dar
ing as it was Parisian. The skirt was of
black velvet, piped with peau de sole,
overlaid with heavy lace. It was double
breasted in front, with almost a Louis
XV cut, and two very long, narrow tails
finished the back, measuring not less than
a yard In length. Six rhlnestone buttons
finished' the front, and four smaller one3
were used in tho back.
In the same audience was a young
singer. Just home from Paris, who was
stunning In a clinging gown of pale yel
low and white. This, too, carried out
the suggestion of tails. The sleeves were
of the yellow crepe de chine In elbow
length, and were finished with a filmy
white lace which hung to the depth of
two feet from the elbow, and had an
Inner ruffle of accord eon pleated chiffon.
A soft scarf of tho chiffon outlined the
Test on either side, running through cro
cheted ornaments to the waist line, from
which it fell on cither side to the hem
of the scarf. This scarf had a finish of
lace to match that on the elbow sleeves.
I Some of the most striking gowns dis
The Oat squirrel stole, finished irlth talis Flat mult of
squirrel with cuff effect.
played this Winter "were donned for the
annual reception ,of the New York City
Chapter of tho Daughters of the Ameri
can Revolution, held recently.
One of the most noticeable features was
the general appearance of elbow sleeves
with their inevitable draperies, and the
absence of gloves. For the woman pos
sessed of beautifully molded arms this
was a glorious opportunity, and she made
the most of it. A number carried with
such a costume a tiny muff of ermine,
not the street size, but a diminutive con
fection, which Is especially for reception
wear. "With It comes a tippet of ermine,
such as our great grandmothers wore, and
this Is generally thrown over one shoulder
or crorecd in the back.
A number of black lace dresses showed
Jet ornaments. In sequins, crescents and
balls, hanging from the elbow sleeves,
the revere, sash ends and collars. "With
tho velvet dresses the same effect was
attained by the use of small balls hung
on black cord from tho girdle and the
elbow.
One black velvet worn by a member of
the reception committee showed at least
two inches of the underskirt, which was
of silk. The velvet ovcrsklrt was cut In
tabs, displaying the silk underneath.
Another handsome black velvet gown
had a panel of chiffon down tho front of
the skirt to match the vest in the bodice,
while still a third showed a scarf of
chiffon crossed twice over tho bust, then
meeting again at the waist line, from
which It fell to the bottom of the skirt.
A very striking gown was a Malta lace
over corn-colored silk. The elbow sleeves
were placed down the back and finished
with rosettes and long ends of the black
velvet ribbon In various lengths. The back
of the dress was also laced In black velvet
ribbon from the throat to within 10 Inches
of the bottom of the skirt, ending in the
same rosette and streamer effect. The 10
inches below the lace overdress showed
Innumerable ruffles of the silk which
formed the foundation, thus giving a
fluffy appearance around the bust. With
this was worn a black picture hat with
loops and ends of black velvet ribbon
In the back.
Something of the same effect was at
tained In a white lace over gray and this
was laced with silver braid.
A heavier but nevertheless effective
gown was of rich brown broadcloth, with
plain flaring skirt and a blouse coat. The
front of tho blouse showed a panel of
Russian lace, which was also used for
the cuffs and collar. From the waist line
In front, hung two ends of the lace Inser
tion, which reached almost to the bottonV
of the skirt and were finished with balls
of chenille In the samo shade of brown
employed in the suit. A brown velvet
picture hat, trimmed with the lace, and a
sable muff .completed the costume.
Speaking of sables. It seems as If they
had never been used In such fantastic
forms. On Fifth avenue only last Sun
day a woman of wealth wore a sablo
collar whose front was composed of no
less than 25 tails of various lengths. An
other striking garment displayed a cape
which stood out well from the shoulders
and ended in a flat stole that swept the
hem of her trailing gown.
A sable cape recently seen at the opera
house was lined with ruffles of priceless
lace, the lower one showing below the fur.
wf m
Black hnt of fluted illk and chiffon, finished -nith a plume caught vrlth Jet cabouchon.
STUNNING
NEVER was the power of dress felt
more "than now, and never was
dress In all its details more perfect.
At home or abroad the clever woman of
the hour Is she who makes obeisance to
the Goddess Fashion, and they who turn
their backs upon the lady may be likened
to the virgins who allowed their lamps
to go out. The old saying that beauty
unadorned Is adorned the most Is now
read only In tho copy books. The world
knows better, as. Indeed, it has always i
known except In sentimental maxim. I
Consider the costume of the women who
dine nightly at tho many, smart rcstau- '
rants about town, and see to what heights
of elegance fashion doth aspire. The old (
sobrieties In color and material, the .
grave restraint In the matter of Jewelry,
which once marked the diner out, are
conspicuous by their absence. At the
more pretentious places, a riot of ball
room finery Is seen, white lace frocks
blooming on the snowiest nights, gems ,
twinkling in lavish profusion from every I
bosom. I
There seems to be only one restriction, i
and that Is that the bare neck cannot be
shown In publlo dining-rooms, though
many compromises for the decollete
waist are made with lace yokes and
guimpes. whose fragile meshes are any
thing but concealing. Tho stockless bod. ;
ice, something cut out only a trifle below i
tne couar line, may oeiaamiiica, tnougn
the wearing of a hat with them Is one of
the requirements of good taste. It Is only
the woman who has apartments In the
hostelry who may go without a hat at the
public table, but even she Is most fre
quently seen with head covered.
White and tinted cloth, with insets of
rich lace and bands of fur, compose many
of these beautiful gowns, whose models
are often of a surprising simplicity.
A lace bodice, with a black velvet, net
or silk skirt. Is also a frequent combina
tion and one which affords endless possi
bilities for variety, as It Is always easier '.
to achieve a waist than an entire cos- I
tume. Some of the lace bodices seen at I
the best restaurants are as modest In
material as they are charming In effect, I
plain and figured nets of Inexpenlve ports I
being combined to produce elegant results.
The plain net Is folded in narrow biases, 1
which are fagotted together to form
stocks, cuffs and ornamental yoke bands.
The rest of the bodice, which frequently
closes at the back with tiny net-covered
buttons, will be of the figured lace, and a
bias of colored velvet, fastening with a
-r. . . 111 hIkJI. I. . Y. 1 ... I
One stunning odd bodice lately seen at a
fashionable restaurant was of white gros
1 grain silk and Irish lace, this four Inches
I wide and showing one smooth and one
scalloped edge. It was put on with a
yoke and Jacket effect, with the tucked
silk cut away underneath to show layers"
of chiffon.
All bodices and gowns with transparen
cies are built upon chiffon foundations,
silk surfaces being considered too hard for
proper relief.
With this fine waist, which may be
copied with Imitation Irish lace, was worn
a apphlre blue velvet skirt and a hat
K remarkable for its oddity, one of the
scooping shapes of the season and white
zlbel! ne felt In material. Ermine faced
the high, up-curving brim. At the back
fell the only other trimming, a long,
straight end of lace and a queer-looking
black plume, whose thick quill pierced the
furred brim. Sitting Bull never owned a
more war-like headdress, yet the pretty
girl who was lunching In It seemed emi
nently civilized.
At the same table was a costume gar
nished with deep fringes, which are now
seen on the most elegant Imported gowns.
Made of pale brown satin-faced cloth, a
network of plstache green braid sur
mounted this brown and green bordering,
which' edged the bolero and a tunic in
deep points. A vest of green velvet, em
broidered' with black, coral or green,
showed at the front of the little Jacket,
which was completely covered with the
braid netting. The belt was aLo of the
velvet, and the open sleeves fell over puffs
of plain cloth.
White ostrich feathers deck many of
the large hats worn at these public lunch
eons and dinners. ar.J .breast knots of
white or purple vlolcts.tashioned by the
milliner, are not uncommon. These are
made of narrow satin ribbon, so cunning
ly bunched and knotted as to seem the
real thing, with green leaves of the plant
and the ribbon and cord tylngs of the flor
ist to aid the deception. The rrlco charged
for each a bououei U tSK. one cX which
FROCKS FOR THE D!NER-OUT
will outwear 20 of the florist's; wherefore
the reason of the ribbon violet Is obvious.
Conventional artificial violets are never
worn in this way, and even ribbon ones
must accompany costumes of the dress
iest description.
"Oyster white" is one of Dame Fash
Ion's new titles for a tint that Is neither
white nor gray. Entire dinner gowns,
with fingers cut In the cloth, are seen In
this off-shade, which Is radiantly enhanc
ing to pale dark women. One very fine
costume In this material showed lace
bands In the same tint and borderings of
chinchilla fur. This was recently worn
at a dinner, a huge white flower at tho
left side of a lace and chinchilla hat con
trasting magnificently with the Inky locks
of the wearer.
Another smart frock showed tho possi
bilities of cut-out cloth against velvet,
and displayed one of the daintiest fads
in trimming. This was a ruche of raw
edged black net, which in a single narrow
line trimmed the bottom of the skirt and
the edge of the eccentric little bolero. The
other materials were Ivory-white cloth
and and Ivory checked velvet.
Gowns In ombre and lace that new
brownish cream frequently show' touches
of the most delicate shade of violet, in
painted or appliqued flowers, and with the
heaviest laces thinner ones will be used,
tho two so stitche dand blended together
as to seem but one sort.
An evening dress treated In this way
combined a heavy cream lace with black
DINXER GOWNS SHOWING BODICE WITH BITS OF TTJItKISII EMBROIDERY.
chantllly, these shaping In the white silk
skirt a tunic effect, whoso "deep points
framed medallions of pink crepe, roses.
Folds of black and pink chiffon edged tho
bottom of the skirt below a border and
scattered sprays of the appliqued flow
ers, others showing on the blouse, which
was almost entirely of black and cream
lace.
The hat worn with this superb dress
seemed simple by comparison. The flat
crown was of pale pink roses, and the
brim of black tulle In loose folds. A fall
of black chantllly gracefully finished tho
back.
Many beautiful and rare bits of Turkish
embroidery are spotted on these smart
dlnlng-out frocks, whose skirts all train
to some degree, and whose sleeves all flt
tightly at the shoulders. The worked
and spangled and gemmed pieces show in
vests, stocks, revers and cuffs, with al
ways sober hues for contrast.
Transparent stocks of lace, with touches
of some rich embroidery, take the V-dlp
at the front now necessary for the modish
neck line, the close cuff bands of the full
sleeves following suit at the inside arm.
Everything drops downward shoulder
lines, sleeves, skirt trimmings and It Is
for this reason that the graceful fringes
are again admired.
The length of skirts at the front has
been much modified, happily for our com
fort, but all still train at the sides and
back. One eccentric model, which, how
ever. Is exceedingly effective on slight
figures, is almost skin tight down to the
The only tassel allOTfable on the
knees. This has either a plain habit back
or else fastens with small buttons or
hooks under trimmings of some sort.
The wraps worn by the fashionable din
ers out are the despair of the woman of
small means, for. In effect at least, wraps
are more than ever splendid. But a
word to the wise things are not always
what they seem, though it is only the
really prosperous who dare to be auda
cious. So keep your eyes, well open and.
ask at a good shop for a pelerine irf dyed
musquash. If you want a tippet like the
wonderful one your neighbor may wear
For dyed musquash It is six times out of
10, Just as another woman's seemingly
precious squirrels are only inferior dyed
skins. However, second and third nn-H
ties of gray squirrel may be had reasorf
ably and these are all good enough for
evening, when the chief thing Is simply to
ook fine.
A touch of ermine on a cloth coat also
lends a look of luxury, add a fancy-made
mutt, with some cheap lace and velvet and
ribbon violets, will do more.
White gardenias trimmed the fur and
lace hat of one beautifully gowned dame,
and her fluffy muff as well. "Velvet dog
wood bloomed upon tho trappings of an
other woman, seeing 'which a sentimental
diner at a neighboring table was moved
to rhyme:
v Spring went by the meadov.
An dby the bill's bright run.
And left behind the eglantine
And dogwood pale and prim.
Pale and prim are fashion's choicest
ready-to-wear hat.
Lace Gowns and Bodices Are
Considered Good T High-Necked
Bodice Is Imperative.
Winter flowers for white, and the stlffest
blooms are everywhere preferred, from the
queen of flowers, the camella, down to
the homely dogwood.
Just as the smartest women dare to
wear imitation furs at these dinners about
town, so, also, they sometimes mingle
paste stones with their real gems. There
are, every reason, a nunareu ana one tri
fles in Jewelry which it Is not worth while
-1? jnirchase in precious stones. Thesa
and even long-eared rabbits, this season
pin In brooch shapes the lace bodice or
vest at any desired point. Larger neck
hronphe.. In gennfo rt'i rnrrw1 -i tip
sapphires, keep them In countenance, and
with other gewgaws of equal richnesss a
chain In paste coral may be worn. One
dollar Is the price of these rosy harnesses.
Which charmingly set off a lace bodice,
and which, somehow, give every woman a
look of Juvenility.
When all of the fair ones are settled at
their various tables you notice two things
how smoothly all the heads aro dresU
aim now sweetly everybody smells. The
pompadour style of coiffure, with many
sorts of plain shell and fancy pins holding
up the back hairs, is the one most fa
vored; and plainly you discover If you
have a good nose that stephanotls Is the
swagger perfume. A woman In the holy
ring of Fashlondom tells how the scent
Is applied:
"Never on the handkerchief, mind you,
but on the bare skin, under the ears, and
on the palms and wrists. The skin ab
sorbs the drug quality of all perfumes,
and when applied In this way, only the
sweetness is left.
But a word on the neglected handker
chief. The newest ones for dressy pur
poses are In tinted mulls as fine as cob
web. These are very small and only
trimmed with hand embroideries, a deli
cate line above the narrow hem or a
wreath, enclosing a monogram In one
corner. MARY DEAX.
TEACHING
SCHOOL CHILDREN
TO SEW
i
IIILE thera Is much said In favor
of the overworked housemother
buying thlns3 ready-made whenever pos
sible, every woman, rich or poor, should
ments that aro much better made at
hom".
. 1 1 .. ,H ........ nTiu i
.I.M.U.V. 1 fl 1... ..... uuju bU. 0. . l
L. Jcssup, superintendent of domestic art
In the public schools of Manhattan "that
our enoris in inausiriai training are going
to bring around a new order of things
I hA rl.tnn AArotnn Th. ...1. , . f
me luiure win nauw uuw 10 plan anu
make carments for herself and children.
same money now "spent in cheap, tawdry,
material 01 gocu quality ana design anu.
I.o.fft h.Afl T111t.li. hnn. . t- ,nn.l. t. j 1
keep clothing In order, thero will be
economy In expenditure.
"The ready-made garments bought by
the poor are In themselves Injurious to
poorest poesiDie taorics, tney are so Daoiy
t on.1.1 n nil ni 1 r rnnntliAi. th.f a 1 1 ..-V. nr.-
. u.. .vq.uv. . 1 1 ii k u. it n ii i.
quamtance with the wash tub reduces
uitriii iu uuiJeieas rags. iae ume-nueu
muslin of uoorlv dved nrlntit aro not en
couraging material on which to place a
neatly raaco darn or patch.
The training In the public day schools.
wnicn worns tor eventual reformation in
thfi homes, bprins whpn th HHIn nnpq nrp
about seven years old. First comes tht
LtaLUllll. UJ. IL1 1L11 iiiiu rii III. 1 J 1 1 i i
as possible after securing a certain
flriA Str1tnf-t mnrlA nrn l-on atmnl. ba oc
worker. She may overhand a needle bdok.
not yet learned to gather and place
uvii, ma uiaiiu u. uuK lur ner worK. or
is in the first half year's course.
In tho" next half year the children,
after drafting to a scale their patterns,
make miniature underwalsts and skirts,
atiMitrToi- artt-nno lrlntAnnii f .... t a
AtriciiL iduuu) uiiu Lilt? UDers rrnm renin
form an Important port of the course